Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovel
If the liners are proving particularly tight to shift this is an indication itself the the top of the spigot where the liner locates has mushroomed significantly. Typical symptoms are initial movement of 1/4” (due to slight undercut on liner allows some relief) or so and then starting to bind.
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Some subsequent conclusions :~
That could be the case here Gary but, from my investigations since including a clean up of the original liners and their housings in the block, they were held tightly due to corrosion between their steel and the alloy block interfaces where they touch. Almost certainly caused by use of poor anti-freeze. Removing the surface corrosion firstly with a light pass with a wire brush in a circular drill, finishing off with some worn wet and dry 180 grade used wet on the liners. Then those liners would relocate without any need for undue force. I'm taking that as a positive sign of no serious over heating damage to the block.
I did use all four shims to raise the NEW Liners along with the MLS Cylinder Head Gasket with its head saver shim.
I am pleased with the results... so far. All the signs are positive but me being me, I'm not counting my chickens just yet. Even that excess of steam on cold engine start up has cleared. I plan to drill very small holes in the rear Silencer at both ends at their lowest points to allow any water or condensation trapped or accumulated in there to drain. I had clouds of steam from my other ZT-T 1.8T on cold start ups until I did this ... lots of water drained out. Then mist from exhaust on start up hugely reduced to normal cold engine start levels.
Thanks to the helpful advice from members on this site, I bought one of the Auto-Centre Punches a few days ago. Actually bought two giving one to my son for his tool box.
Used it to punch a guide for the drill bit to put a small drain hole in the lowest part of the car's rear exhaust silencer. The first time I pressed the Punch fully, it soon put a start punch depression where I wanted to drill. Keeping the punch in that first start location I pressed it a few more times and it made the punch depression deeper. Just what I wanted to stop the drill bit wandering from where I want to drill.
For good measure I put another hole in the far opposite end of the silencer body at its lowest point. Reason for this being there's a slope in front of my garage so any condensation build up will drain no matter which way I park the car on the slope.
Unlike when I did this on my daily driver ZT-T, no moisture drained out this time. Pleased about this. I had let the car idle several time over the past few days until the engine got hot enough to switch on the Radiator Fan. The fan would run for a few minutes at maximum revs and then switch off automatically. With the engine still running, with the occasional "blip" on the throttle pedal to get up some revs briefly, the Fan again came on.
All this before I drill the two holes in the Silencer today. So it looks like this has at last cleared moisture trapped in the Exhaust System which created masses of team Clouds out the Exhaust those first engine start ups immediately after completing the engine rebuild. The level of moisture out of the exhaust now on cold days with high humidity is about what you can expect with any car in current weather conditions, even new cars. Hardly anything to be concerned about.
Well impressed with that Auto-Centre Punch. Very effective in putting a start hole in several jobs since I got it.
eBay item number:302893861585
I paid £5.50p for two posted. Excellent value. If the pictures used are correct, the same item is listed by others for around ten quid!