Cleaned it up ~ did not need much as four years ago when I fitted the first Head Gasket, I thoroughly prepared it then so it did not need much cleaning this time around. Quick once-over with Wire Brush Wheel in the Electric Drill followed by finishing with some worn 180 grade wet and dry used wet.
Came up well :~
MLS [ Multi-Layer-Steel ] Cylinder Head Gasket used this time followed by Head Saver Shim on top.
In this following image, note the use of two short lengths of wood to rest the head on whilst locating the steel dowels in their head locations. The wood pieces a tad thicker than the height of those steel locating dowels to avoid possible damage to the softer alloy of the Cylinder Head face. Far easier locating the dowel nearest the gearbox end first when the wood is removed there. Then repeat the other end.
Fitted and all torqued down in three stages. Stage 1 20nm, Stage 2 further 180 degrees turn, the final Stage 3 a final 180 degree turn.
I re-aligned the Timing Belt and positioned the Tensioner to allow the most Belt Slack on the Tensioner side of the Belt Run around the engine.
Some folks have problems fitting these belts and have been known to stress them when they have difficulty fitting them. If the pointed part of the Tensioner's Adjuster Plate is rotated so that it faces towards the 9 O'Clock position, that setting will provide the most Belt Slack to enable the Belt to be fitted around the Water Pump Drive Pulley, Tensioner Roller and both Camshaft Pulleys.