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Old 23rd May 2019, 23:18   #14
Copilot
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Rover 75 Saloon

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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitesse View Post
Or there again, how much did the coolant drop after the belch?

Sounds to me that you had an airlock but it then cleared itself with the “burp” and then it was fine afterwards. If an airlock then I would have expected the coolant level to go down in the expansion tank after first overflowing, OK you lost some through the cap, but level of drop in the expansion tank suggest to me an airlock.

Mine overheated and vented coolant when I first bought it despite a working fan and minus 12 outside, caused by an airlock, but at a much higher temperature. Didn’t notice any power loss but then again I struggled to get home on barely tickover as the temperature shot up as soon as I pressed the engine. The car had rejected all “professional” attempts to bleed it. It's been fine ever since I bled it and my normal temp is around 95 / 96.

If the machine is happy now I’d continue to use it, monitoring the IPK temperature as you are doing and checking the coolant. Refilling the coolant again and risking another airlock seems asking for trouble.

Regards
Hi again Mike. Thanks for your answer.

Have you bled the system using which method? MG Rovers?
I have keep using the car and the temperature remains somewhere between 90 to 94º but I have not been in a traffic jam again to test it.

I've top up the coolant to the MAX mark and nothing have happened since then.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kaiser View Post
That does not sound like you have lost a lot of coolant.
The "normal" operating temperature is from 85 to 95, give and take. You can see up to 100, but not on an open road with free cooling, unless it is stinking hot! (it is not stinking hot in Denmark! not even by a mile)
The fan is only supposed to increase cooling in a slow moving or stationary vehicle. It should never come on on the open road.
Filling the cooling system on many cars, but especially the V6 can leave pockets of air, if not done thoroughly! That can cause overheating. They will typically be very sudden and quickly subside.
But there should be no spillage before you get much higher in temperature!
Maybe up to 115.
So, here are the scenarios (scenarii ??)
1. You have overfilled the system, and it has coughed some of the water out.
2. The smoke is not smoke, but steam.
3. Your cap has had it. Do what you should do with May! Bin it and get a new!
4. Your measurements are wrong, and the system is operating at a higher temperature, (air around the sensor).
5. You have another problem, maybe stuck thermostat etc.

I would firstly try and keep the cooling system full, to the mark and no higher! Monitor and top up if required.

And check the fan operation. It should indeed come on at about 102 or 104, but that should not normally cause water spillage, if the system is not overfilled.
Sure was not so much coolant lost as I would assume in this situations.
As I mentioned, this situation happened in a traffic jam, so it didn't reach 99º in the open road.

The cap wasn't changed but the O-rings were. for VITON ones provided by DMGRS.

The thermostat is not stuck otherwise when I turned on the A/C and the fan kicked in the temperature wouldn't drop down as it happened, I believe.

Now you mention about air trapped around the sensor, that would produce a quite significant fluctuation in the temperature reading, am I right?
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