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Old 4th June 2020, 19:20   #28
edwardmk
Gets stuck in
 
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MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supervinnie40 View Post
Thanks for the confirmation. I'll continue testing with not switching the pins around.


I check these weekly, but never hurts to check once again. They are bone dry and all plenums are clear. I can see the pavement under the car. Ecu looks a bit dusty at most, but pretty clean and dry. No signs of moisture or waterlines on the cabin filter either.


Unfortunately, the car has made me scratch my head once again. Really confused now!

I realized I never tried what happens when I simply leave the multimeter attached. Not disconnect it all the time. So I got a few clamps and attached the multimeter as above, and left it in place.

First sign (with the 5 fuses mentioned above removed, I saw that the current goes up when the doors have been opened. When I close the doors, the current drops after roughly 1 minute down to 0.06 amp.

I then saw I didn't connect the alternator (took it off last night). So I put that back, and openen a few doors. Amp went up at first, but dropped after a minute to 0.07 amp.

Finally, I put all 5 fuses back and connected everything in the car as normal. At first the amp went up (just opened a door), but eventually it dropped again down to 0.08 and stayed there.

So, with the multimeter connected (and not pulling it loose all the time), the amps go down as can be expected. (0.08 is reasonable I think?)
But if I disconnect the leads, and reconnect them, the amps go up to 0.3 amps, without touching the doors.

I'm starting to loose the plot haha.
I had the same problems with my 260 last year. Like you I took many readings and swapped around every fuse I could find. Because my battery was fairly young ( around 10-11 months I seem to recollect) I assumed it was OK. I invested in various pieces of test kit but got mixed results. Finally I gave up and went back to Halfords who were initially doubtful it could be faulty (fairly new battery). Their service guy appeared with a very expensive meter which gave a simple message...'replace battery'. Then they were as good as gold and exchanged it under their 4 year warranty. All my issues disappeared. I now hook up a Ctek 5a charger when it isn't in use for more than a week and it now starts first time (so far lol). Apparently batteries which are fairly new can lose a cell and cause trouble, especially if the battery has been run very flat. SD1 and Colvert were both very helpful at that time too. And it is technically correct that electrons travel from negative to positive.
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