Quote:
Originally Posted by clf
Clear coat, lacquer, regardless of what you wish to call it, as the corrosion is there, that needs to be treated. Forget paint stripper, as you will still need.to smooth it down. Wire brush loose paint and corrosion off first then Use wet and dry sandpaper. I would probably start with an 800 grit (going as low as 200 if it was severe, but only using it on the corroded parts). Then sand again with finer papers up to around 2000 grit. (This more you do, the better the finish will be)
If the corrosion is severe, you would likely need filler, of which there are some for alloy wheels. Smooth this off and then spray a high build primer when you are happy with the sanding results. Rub this down with a 1500 - 2000 grit until you are happy with its smoothness. Then apply the colour, rubbing with wet 2000 grit between each coat until the last. Once the last coat of.colour is on, then spray clear coat/lacquer on. Again rubbing down with wet very fine 'wet and dry' between coats. Until the final coat.
There are YouTube videos aplenty for wheel painting, which should show this. Preparation is key to getting a good result, as is temperature and humidity (I would do it in the summer for this reason).
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I disagree with this.
It's not corrosion as such , its water under the clear coat.
I had exactly the same on my Ford wheels and after spending hours rubbing through the clear , just to get to the corrosion, it is a lot easier to use paint stripper to remove the clear ,then sort out the corrosion.
It shouldn't affect the alloy itself , as it's like a white powder.
Most of mine came away with the paint stripper
Atan