[bikerdude666]

Originally Posted by m6dly

Take a quick look at my build thread

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=280232

There’s some more photos in there from when I tackled the same job, hopefully it will give you some pointers.

This is also a very useful thread for a refurb

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...pension+refurb

I found it very helpful


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Thanks, I'll have a look over those threads.

Originally Posted by ADO282

If my experience was anything to go by Derrick, I would say it is considerably easier to fit the subframe without the arms fitted.


I found once the subframe was offered up and held up using a shoulder ( I was working with the car on axle stands, the bolts were easy enough to refit to the body, and the upper arms were easy to refit to the subframe, and the lowers even easier.


It was noted by the MOT tester last Friday too...........sometimes it just "helps" when our car looks nice and clean underneath !!


And yes, the exhaust needs to be off to do the job.

Thanks, my plan was to use a trolley jack with a scaffolding board on it to support the subframe and lift it into place. But that depends on how high I manage to get the car up on the axle stands.

I agree presentation seems to help at MOT time.

Originally Posted by macafee2

I fitted the sub frame and then all the parts to it.
As you have the car apart do check the sub frame fail safe washers and toe in brackets for rust but you will need to get the tracking checked if you remove the toe in brackets.

When tightening the bolts, do have the car sitting on its wheels, in the air wheels hanging is not the way to do it.

Thanks to lock down, I got to spend 7 or 8 weeks on and off doing the front and rear suspension

macafee2

Thanks, I'm pretty sure I cleaned up and painted the toe in brackets last year. I definitely did the drivers side as I had to take it off to replace the trailing arm. Have to ask though, what are the failsafe washers? And thanks for the tip about doing the bolts up. I'll have to swap it all over, lower it down then back it up on the ramps to tighten it all up properly.

Unfortunately I've got from Friday afternoon until Sunday evening. If its not done by then I've got to use my wives car to get to work, and try and get things done in the evenings and the following weekend.

Originally Posted by DMGRS

Brilliant post, and excellent work!
Just a quick heads up, a member of another forum had an issue with the XPart-issued FC112187A bolts for the rear arms - when torqued to spec one sheared.
It was a fairly recent issue - wouldn't want you fitting them from the same batch if affected, that's all.
I've got a detailed description of the issue saved if it's of interest, but I won't post it publicly here.

A shame the rear arms were too far gone; the quality of the originals far outweighs any of the current 'options' so I'm a fan of saving them where possible.

Absolutely lovely to see such in-depth work being carried out to one of our fine cars
Edit: just to add, I'd fit the subframe and then everything to it. They're incredibly heavy when fully built-up.

Was that on facebook? I think I saw that post. It did worry me a bit, but I'd rather not reuse the old bolts.

I don't suppose you can supply the brackets for the anti-roll bar (MG ZT) and the rubber blocks that fit in to them too?