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CMOORESY · 9th January 2020, 21:05

There is a way of opening the bonnet without dismantling or breaking anything (well other than the offending catch).

As far as I can see there isn't a way in through the grill as the catches are sandwiched batween the top of the radiator and the slam panel.

This is what I have done countless times over 15 years og 75 and ZT ownership.

Get a 10mm combination spanner and bend the open end over so it kicks up at a bit of an angle, likewise with the ring end, bend this so it is flat and does not have the usual angle (you are basically reversing the spanner angles open end from flat to angled and ring end from angles to flat..

put some protective tape along your bonnet edge just in front of the bayonet catch, and also put some tape along the bumper gill molding in the same position.

If one catch has undone but the other wont, you can 'lift' the bonnet a little by wedging a suitable object wrapped in a cloth between the bonnet and the bumper molding to open up the gap a bit more.

Reach inside with the spanner and undo the two 10mm head bolts holding the bayonet to the underside of the bonnet. Alternate between each bolt. Every turn gives you more room to work in as the blots release and the bonnet lifts under pressure from the wedge.

Once they are unscrewed the bonnet will open and you can often pull the cable to release. the bayonet the bayonet from the catch. From experience this often happens as the bayonet can jam due to alighnment in the catch so its not necessarily a broken cable or defective catch. If the cable is broken you can get the bayonet out of the catch by pushing the catch back with a small screw driver from in top, between the bayonet and the catch tab, you may have to pull the plastic spring loaded plunger on the bayonet up to access this.

The only thing that makes this fiddly is the rolled edge of the bayonet fixing plate. this gets in the way a bit when starting the bolts off.

As a precaution I take both the bayonet's off and hammer flat the front rolled edge, this way you can unscrew then in a couple of minutes with your modified spanner.

Not had to do this on a 75 for years, then could not get my bonnet open this weekend. A quick rummage around in my tool box located the old modified spanner.

The only thing is, I have only done this on facelift 75's and ZT's don't know if it works of MK1's although in theory it should be the same, not sure about the MK1 bumper gap access either as often MK2 have an unintentional bigger gap as we know.

Good luck and don't go cutting into grilles, bumpers and bonnets, there really is no need.

9th January 2020, 21:05	#10
CMOORESY Avid contributor MG ZT Auto and 75 Tourer Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Nantwich Posts: 182 Thanks: 8 Thanked 52 Times in 20 Posts	There is a way of opening the bonnet without dismantling or breaking anything (well other than the offending catch). As far as I can see there isn't a way in through the grill as the catches are sandwiched batween the top of the radiator and the slam panel. This is what I have done countless times over 15 years og 75 and ZT ownership. Get a 10mm combination spanner and bend the open end over so it kicks up at a bit of an angle, likewise with the ring end, bend this so it is flat and does not have the usual angle (you are basically reversing the spanner angles open end from flat to angled and ring end from angles to flat.. put some protective tape along your bonnet edge just in front of the bayonet catch, and also put some tape along the bumper gill molding in the same position. If one catch has undone but the other wont, you can 'lift' the bonnet a little by wedging a suitable object wrapped in a cloth between the bonnet and the bumper molding to open up the gap a bit more. Reach inside with the spanner and undo the two 10mm head bolts holding the bayonet to the underside of the bonnet. Alternate between each bolt. Every turn gives you more room to work in as the blots release and the bonnet lifts under pressure from the wedge. Once they are unscrewed the bonnet will open and you can often pull the cable to release. the bayonet the bayonet from the catch. From experience this often happens as the bayonet can jam due to alighnment in the catch so its not necessarily a broken cable or defective catch. If the cable is broken you can get the bayonet out of the catch by pushing the catch back with a small screw driver from in top, between the bayonet and the catch tab, you may have to pull the plastic spring loaded plunger on the bayonet up to access this. The only thing that makes this fiddly is the rolled edge of the bayonet fixing plate. this gets in the way a bit when starting the bolts off. As a precaution I take both the bayonet's off and hammer flat the front rolled edge, this way you can unscrew then in a couple of minutes with your modified spanner. Not had to do this on a 75 for years, then could not get my bonnet open this weekend. A quick rummage around in my tool box located the old modified spanner. The only thing is, I have only done this on facelift 75's and ZT's don't know if it works of MK1's although in theory it should be the same, not sure about the MK1 bumper gap access either as often MK2 have an unintentional bigger gap as we know. Good luck and don't go cutting into grilles, bumpers and bonnets, there really is no need. Last edited by CMOORESY; 11th January 2020 at 09:59..