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Quote:
Originally Posted by al_dente
I fitted an EGR bypass a couple of weeks ago and then broke down on the motorway last night 
The car had an engine fault light (I think that's what it said) and would only run at about 1400 revs.
Looking under the bonnet, the EGR pipe had split and was blowing hot gasses onto the inlet manifold. You can see from the photo that it's melted some of the plastic.
I think it's melted some of the wire there too, which is the MAP sensor I think. I assume that's what was causing the engine fault.
I bought this type of bypass because I'd read that it puts less stress on the pipe - and I was careful when fitting the blanking plate. I guess the pipe was just getting weak and me messing with it has finished it off.
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Hi Alistair.
I have reported a few times now that those EGR bypass are not good to fit, they must have the support on them other wise the pipe will flex with vibration and end up splitting as yours did.
It as most likely damaged the wiring to the fuel rail sensor, the MAP sensor is on the other side of the manifold.
If you are going to fit a bypass EGR then use an original one gutted.
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With the support for the rest of the manifold egr exhaust.
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There are one out there not original with the support which are much better than the one that is fitted to your car, such as this below, but still not as good as having an original gutted one in my opinion.
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These are the manifolds cleaned out which i exchange at the Nano meets, some have the EGR gutted others stay original.
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To late for you now though, as you know you can 99.9% always find a solution on here.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=312649
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I have a few of these if you wanted to revert back to original, but it's not an easy job to remove and re-fit the exhaust section.
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Arctic