[SD1too]

Yes Cliff, I recognise the poor performance climbing gradients, even mild ones. The first thing to do is to remove the four screws fixing the balance VIS actuator on the side of the manifold chamber. Carefully withdraw the unit and the flap valve will come with it. The chances are that this flap will be stuck in its mid position. It should be fully open. The flap and its frame can be eased using fine abrasive paper so that it moves with the lightest of touches but you might have an actuator fault as well. These are very expensive to buy new but that isn't really necessary because club member Stocktake specialises in their repair, refurbishment and modification.

The power VIS actuator is harder to remove with the manifold chamber in situ but if you can, you'll see the operating rod beneath it. Make sure that this is as far towards the driver's side of the car as it will go and that the actuator's drive dog fits inside the eye of the rod.

When the manifold chamber is removed for timing belt renewal, take the opportunity to lift off the cam covers. Inside you'll find two gauze filters and behind one of them is a pinhole breather orifice which will almost certainly be blocked with dried carbon deposits. Clean the pinhole in each cam cover and you will find that this contributes usefully to the engine's performance.

One last tip concerning timing belt renewal. Ensure that whoever is doing the job tests the tensioner and idler pulleys for bearing wear and renews them if necessary. Don't assume that it will be done because the mechanics are "MG Rover trained". This operation is not included in the official workshop manual to dealers but poses the greatest risk to your engine.

Simon