Disable SRS modules?
So my airbag light is on AGAIN - over the years, connectors have been cut out and wires soldered etc, but still it tends to rear its head again before MOT time.
The guy who's fixed it the last couple of times has just done things with the wiring (don't know what, sadly - each time I suppose I thought it would be fixed for good), so no wet sensors under the carpet etc. This time I merely moved the driver's seat forward a couple of inches for somebody in the back, and the light has been on ever since. Couple of questions for the experts... 1. My SRS tool identifies the front tensioner ignition circuit as having high resistance. Anybody know which wire this is under the seat please? 2. I see the tool has an option to disable the problematic module (Belt Tensioner Driver I assume)... could this be a temporary fix to get it through the MOT? Would it make the light go out? Thanks everybody :D https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d1ab297d82.jpg |
The pretensioner wires are the ones coming from the seat belt buckle.
Cannot comment on disabling via your software as I have never played with that. |
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Yes, that makes sense... why didn't I think of that :o |
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I have THESE fitted to mine, and have been for at least 6 maybe 7 years. They have been heat shrunk closed with an adhesive type heat shrink, that I havent been able to find since, but if I need to remove the seats, they can be cut open and unplugged. The heat shrink supports the connections to the plugs, and can be tied to the seat frame if needed. I did have the seats out at the time, so it was easy to do. They were not recommended to me on the forum, as they are not waterproof, but I did add a dab of dielectric grease to the contacts and over the connection before the heat shrink. |
Interesting question about disabling the tensioner, try it and tell us, but don’t forget the back-up first (if you can find it later in the Windows jungle:}). Also interesting, besides the tensioner, will the rest of the system still be active? Guess no-one knows.
Wondering if a large amount of solder could increase the resistance? I remember something ages ago when I bought a non-standard lambda sensor about instructions saying not to solder it but use special connectors instead. I’ve disabled the brake pad warning light on mine as I used non-standard pads without the sensors (BMW). Didn’t disable the ABS. Brake light on, disabled, then off. I change tyres twice a year so no problem checking the pads. Good luck |
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Thanks Alan – I have a set of connectors somewhere like the ones recommended here, but got lazy and just soldered the wires. But I suspect the wires to the pre-tensioners weren’t done :shrug: Quote:
I will if I get brave enough… does “SAVE” equate to “backup” do you reckon…? I suspect it just saves the new, altered, SCARY config :eek: Quote:
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Thanks :D if I still drank, I'd already have tried it... |
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Keep well |
Well, I've answered my own question - I toggled the driver's side pretensioner off, saved, and out went the airbag light - just like that. Useful for the MOT, but I'll still get it fixed at some stage.
Disclaimer: if you follow my example, stick your hand in the fire, or vote for... hhmmm, no, better not start that one - responsibility for consequences is yours alone ;) PS there is no facility to save a config file as with TOAF - you can read codes, toggle sensors on/off, and save to the SRS. That's it. |
Thanks, interesting information for those with the Autoliv SRS system.
Keep well |
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