Is there an offical method for bleeding?
Is there an officel method for bleeding a diesel?
Apart from squeezing top hose and removing bleed screw by battery box is there anything else? Having fitted and removed an FBH I'm sure I've lost more coolant then I've put back. Can watch temp gauge get to 9'oclock and then drop as I assume inline stat then opens and then temp gauge creeps back up again to 9 o'clock. macafee2 |
Remove the bleed screw, ensure the expansion tank is half full then blow down the hole in the expansion tank until all the air is expelled from the bleed hole.
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"you didn't refill and bleed the cooling system according to the MGR recommended procedure". Don't say I didn't warn you :icon_lol: Now back to the naughty step for you my lad :xmas-smiley-008: Brian :xmas-smiley-040: P.S. Ian, Trikey's method works fine in terms of what is lost when fitting a FBH ;) |
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As long as the top small stabbing in the expansion tank is clear and not blocked (where the small hose is connected), with the bleed screw removed they pretty much bleed themselves Ian. Check the level after a few runs, top up if required and you should be fine. If you lose coolant on the diesels, the first symptom is lack of heating in the cabin, and that happens well before any movement of the temperature gauge. . |
But on other matters Brian you preach that the manufacturer knows best. :shrug: So do tell us, why is this any different?
Simon |
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Simon |
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Brian :xmas-smiley-008: |
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Have you checked the temperature using the dash? It would be interesting to see what's going on temp wise. |
I found removing the 8mm bolt that holds the expansion tank in place and lifting tank up helps. Also check the small pipe inlet to the neck of the tank is clear. I have used a tyre pump on the inlet pipe spout to clear the blockage.
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macafee2 |
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