Rust proofing
 

I've got to treat some corrosion on the R25 this summer. I was going to use some Bilthamber wax and paint on the underside: dynax S50 & UB (brushed on, unless advised otherwise - I don't have spray kit). How must would I need for a small hatch of each product?

Dynax S50 comes in spray cans with an option for a 360 degree spray lance for inner sections (access via drainhole). One can treated both my sills and a coat on the rear suspension too.;)


https://i.imgur.com/GH4ni5J.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/KoeqnRC.jpg

Thanks, one can of S50 then. Anyone know how much UB for the external surfaces? Thanks

Thanks, one can of S50 then. Anyone know how much UB for the external surfaces? Thanks

You might get away with 2 cans but 3 would be safer.

You don't need to plaster it on for it work.

I agree! One can did one coat. I've used another, once the first dried (took ages) and have another part used for touching up.:}

Bilt Hamber sell kits here - https://www.bilthamber.com/detailing..._store=default - slightly cheaper than buying the same products separately.

2 x dynax-s50 750ml
1 x dynax-UB 750ml
1 x dynax-UC 750ml
1 x surfex HD 1L

£59.95 instead of £70.00

Which one to use where - https://www.bilthamber.com/which-cavity-wax

Spray cans are a much better bet than paint on.

The liquid will get into places that you can't see and could possibly miss.---:D

I will add my thoughts.

I stripped down my entire rear end, new everything apart from subframe, but all the parts I sent off for blasting, zinc priming, then finished in off-shore grade black 2pack paint. (even the new bits as the standard finish is garbage)

I then used 3M white cavity wax inside the subframe and upper arms, which worked wonderfully, and also then used Dynax-UB to coat all the steel brake lines and fittings and bolt heads under the car to prevent anything corroding.

I cannot recommend the dynax UB enough, it is great stuff. A huge can, and if you multi layer it, even if thick it dries quite clear over time so it does not really affect the look of the car.

Thanks for the advice :D

Was this process expensive Ross (blasting, zinc priming and off-shore grade repaint)? I'm going to replace all my rear end components with brand new parts and I'm wondering whether I should do the same as you've done.

I think the factory paint job on new parts is nowhere near tough enough - it looks like a single black finish coat straight onto on bare metal. This is what's caused all our rear ends to rust in the first place.

Job done!
 

Thanks for the advice. I bought the Bilt Hamber products and have applied to the R25, touching up some other areas whilst at it (such as hatch hinges) with body paint. Not a pleasant job. Removing the wheel arch liners were a pain and should have pre-bought some of the self tapping fasteners as a screwdriver was no good to get them out. Mole grips was the tool of choice!

Before:

https://i.imgur.com/2QeTuEB.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/iUKRPOX.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/ESoNqGN.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/Ys1mbeA.jpg?1


After:

https://i.imgur.com/nnrpW2o.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/xRclwkV.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/5h5cxha.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/5wpNNEu.jpg?1



Feet up for a bit now. :chat:

In a week's time I'll clean and wax with the BH wax I bought...

£300 to strip, zinc prime, and 2-pack coat all the rear components.

All the new parts were done also, the factory "finish" is dreadful, single layer of already flaking paint.

£300 is a bit steep for me. I was thinking of doing it myself using this - https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/e...hassis-paint-7 - on all new parts but with the lousy factory paint job roughed up.


Apologies to gnu for barging in on your thread. :o

Looks pretty good to me. Did you put two coats of BH on or just one?

Was more expensive as I asked for offshore grade 2-pack.

Subframe will still be here come the next Ice Age.

I put on one generous coat and touched up after on areas that looked thin or missed. I bought 2 cans of the UB (external surfaces) and one S50 (cavities). Pretty much all gone. I have some BH wax to apply once BRG paint touch up areas are hard.

Arg! have 2 cans of the S50 and was going to coat everything with it, from your post its only for cavities and I need UB for everything bar cavities, is this right ?

I'm no expert, but that was my interpretation. I think you could put s50 on external surfaces, but it may wash off more easily. There is another product for lower paint work, but I didn't get it; thought I'd get the wax instead.

Not the only one I just bought a can of s50 for the underside:devil:

Panicked a bit after reading these horror posts on rear end rust. My rear pads needed changing so I thought I'd include a thorough inspection of my cars backside.


:eek::eek::eek:---Couldn't find any rust.---:shrug:

S50 can be used on the underside:-
https://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50
see details section.

You can use S50 on the underside like you would a primer, followed by, ideally, 2 coats of UB.
It worked well on a former 306 and that was rustier than my 75.

Spent this morning cleaning and waxing the Rover 25 (including areas that needed touching-up or T-cutting last weekend). Not a bad result, for the time spent. Of course, could do better if I had more time for it. Pleased with the deep BRG lustre, reminded me why I've owned 3 cars this colour over the years.:D

https://i.imgur.com/Q93K1fo.jpg?1