Heated seat wiring connectors
 

Hi,

I'm looking for some replacement connectors, as a couple of mine have been destroyed. Here is a picture of what I'm on about.

Some genuine connectors with a few inches of cable still on would do. I could then cut off those in the car and join them up.

It's the connectors which take the yellow + orange/white cabling, and split it to the seat back and base pads. There are two different sizes of connector, and they have male and female versions.

Anyone with an old set of seats, or a car they are scrapping?

I guess I could replace the connectors with something else entirely, but I thought I'd try this first!


Cheers,
Richard.

Hi Richard
I will have a look in the Nano meet wiring box tomorrow for you if there are any you can have them FOC ;)

If Steve can’t help you out, just give me a shout I’m sure I could cut some off for you
Mick

Hi Mick.
I think you maybe the best call, I had a quick look and the two sets of electric seat wires I have both do not have the wiring required by the OP :shrug: sorry I do have another set somewhere but would have to wait until the weather gets better, therefore as above mick could be your man.

Thanks guys, I'll send a PM.

Seat heating elements
 

Hello RichW,
I gave up using the standard connectors you show. On the circuit diagram in Rave, the circuit shows the heating elements in parallel, whilst your picture shows them to be wired in series.
A couple of years ago, I installed the swiss alternative dual heated pads first installed by another Forum Richard ( followed by numbers) the former secretary of the NW Group,. I did not like these as they only heated the centre panels of the seat, so I went back to a new seat element from Rimmers.

After meeting another 75 owner locally last Christmas who only had an element in the base, we got on to talking about how long it took his element to warm up, and he said it was within a couple of hundred yards after switch on he could really feel the heat.

This made me think about using the high/low heat selector switch from Richard's kit, to be able to switch between seat and backrest elements. This gives me fast heating like the other owner's seat and then I switch over to the back heater and that warms up just as quick. Nothing like the 15 minutes or so it took to feel the heat even warm the seat when the elements were connected up in series.

For connectors, I have used simple domestic wire connectors 15 amp rated, bought from B&Q.

Hoping this may help

GeoffWW

Geoff,

Interesting. I admit I have a few problems here, and am just plodding along in the s!ow lane! I also have both seat base heaters open circuit (must be a break) and some of the leather stitching has come apart. I would like the seats refurbishing, but I will probably have to slowly fix them myself. I will keep a note of this info, as it would be nice to have them working as well as possible in the end.

Hello again Rich,

Following on from my previous entry, the element usually breaks in one of two places in the seat part. A break in the back element is unlikely.

The first is under the L/H front corner of the seat as viewed from outside the car with the door open. I think that break is caused by the driver 'dropping' on to the corner of the seat when getting into the car.

The other point is where the element goes under the wire to the front edge section of the seat. Under the join between the central seat panel and the outer panels, there is a very stiff piece of wire, as thick as welding rod, with 'Hog Rings' securing the seat cover in place. The element's link from the centre panel and the front outer panel goes under this wire. If the element is not fitted with enough 'free play' as it crosses under the Hog Ring wire, in the cushion cutting/gap, the two rub together and wear the fabric away, protecting the element, until it shorts. Usually, when this happens, there is a small localised burn and you will probably see the yellow sponge blackened at the break point.

As your seat is wired in series, if the break is on the seat then it stops the power getting to the back as well. Try connecting the power just to each element separately. You will probably find the back element is OK

After a few times having to release the seat to be able to see the power feed and connectors, I used the B&Q connectors to extend all the wires so that I can now connect and disconnect/ change around from parallel to series without moving releasing the seat.

Hoping this helps,

Geoff.

I currently have an open circuit in the drivers seat base, break is in the middle were the hog rings are, can I repair that break or do I have to get a new element? if I need the element do you know were I can get one from?

I think Rimmers currently have them, about £50 - £60'ish https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001868
There is a post by Arctic? with a link to them
Removing the old element I don't think will be easy as it is stuck on.

macafee2