How about this for theory
 

As you may or may not know It depends if you have read my previous post.

I have a funny experience with my clutch with the operation.

The pedal can be very light to start with but during the day the pedal will become heavy in operation quite noticeably. But at other times it will be heavy to operate from the start.:shrug:

It seems that the TAZU M/C has a problem to push the fluid down to the Slave similar to blowing down a tube with a kink in it,Remove the kink and you can blow down it quite easily..

If any of this makes sense to any one any ideas as to what it could be ??

I am going to try and flush the system out in case there is any debris blocking the M/C valves or holes.

Nobody have an opinion on this ???:shrug:

Does the heaviness come and go during a drive or only get heavier until the car has been parked long enough to cool down?

Well then, sometimes when you very first start driving say in the morning It can be very heavy,at other times it can be light as a feather for hours,park up come back to it and the pedal will be heavy again.or remain as light.

I did think it was heat related but it can happen any time weather the car is hot or cold or weather the out side temp is hot or cold.

Hence my comment about it felt like a restriction in the pipe work making it hard to press the pedal.

I'm wondering if the rubber on the push rod is distorting in the master cylinder hence sometimes it's heavy sometimes light. Alternatively could be a problem at the other end the slave cylinder. Just my thoughts.

I'd suspect an intermittent - partial blockage (otherwise the clutch wouldn't work at all) somewhere in the hyrdaulic circuit. Which means removing and cleaning the master cylinder, then reverse bleed it from the slave end. (make sure there's no crud in the fluid in the slave.). Have you inspected the fluid from the master cylinder at all? are there any black bits floating in it?

This is what I need to do when I get back home (France).When you reverse flush do you allow the fluid to overflow from the M/C ?obviously you would need to put a lot of rags down to cover the carpets etc...

Also do you think it would benefit to flush both ways ?

John

Don't let it overflow, take as much out of the master cylinder as possible, use a syringe with a long flexible pipe or something similar to suck as much of the fluid out as you can (still use plenty of rags to catch spillage and keep the carpets clear of fluid). then reverse bleed the system without letting the master over flow - repeat draining master and reverse bleeding untill you are seeing only clean fresh fluid in the master. you'll need some way of pumping hydraulic fluid into the bleed nipple from the slave (use plenty of rags under this) - if you've got an oil gun with a proper oil nipple adaptor on it then clean it out and use that.

It may actually be easier in the long run to remove the master cylinder, strip it down and clean it and then re-assemble with clean fluid and then bleed the clutch normally.

Ok thanks for the reply,I will give it a go and let you know the result..;)