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Abott10 27th November 2019 17:43

1 Attachment(s)
I'm looking to fit these four little gizmos

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...2&d=1576355147

Lovel 27th November 2019 18:19

.004” or .003” ?

COLVERT 27th November 2019 18:50

Lots more BIG pictures.---:D


Any chance you could make them screen size and not HUGE ??----:eek:

marinabrian 27th November 2019 19:04

Better off sourcing a decent block John, the 1400 ones are generally better, then drilling and tapping the oil drain for the turbo.

Once annealed, the blocks are basically scrap, and shimming the liners is a temporary bodge ;)

Brian :D

Abott10 28th November 2019 13:51

Rain stopped play ... AGAIN.
 
7 Attachment(s)
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ine=1551723620

Made a start by jacking up the car.


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...5&d=1574946986


When I fitted a new Cylinder Head Gasket to this car four years ago, I also fitted better quality Exhaust Manifold Studs, Nuts and washers. The Studs have an Allen Key facility which makes working on these areas so much more convenient and easier.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...8&d=1574947100

Abott10 2nd December 2019 19:20

6 Attachment(s)
Quickly had the Coil Packs and Camshaft Cover removed

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1&d=1575312142

Even the Gasket was in good shape. When the engine over heated I half expected it to have destroyed the paint surfaces as sometimes happens even in a healthy engine.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...2&d=1575312159

Small traces of Water-Oil Mix. Condensation or?...
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...3&d=1575311829

Also removed the two Retaining Bolts and Nuts to release the Alternator. I actually swung it forward to facilitate Cylinder Head and Exhaust Manifold access and removal.

Having done that, turned my attention to the 5 Exhaust Manifold Nuts, Washers and Studs. Four years ago I treated this engine to a set of Stainless Steel, Allen Key Drive Ex-Manifold Studs, Brass Nuts and Washers and using these Allen Key Tools they were soon removed.

Here's the tools for the job. Both useful because of various positions needed and other access restrictions.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...6&d=1575313171

Tools in action
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...7&d=1575313217

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...8&d=1575313300

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...0&d=1575313737

End Product ~ One detached Exhaust Manifold. I carefully recovered the Exhaust Manifold Stainless Steel Gasket. It looks like new. So will reuse.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...9&d=1575313329

pletevl 3rd December 2019 10:14

Do the liners drop because of heat or because of the hammering effect ?

I was told that the head suffers after overheating which causes the liners to hammer up and down and that the block itself doesn't really suffer from the heat.

Pete.

Abott10 3rd December 2019 12:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by pletevl (Post 2779528)
Do the liners drop because of heat or because of the hammering effect ?

I was told that the head suffers after overheating which causes the liners to hammer up and down and that the block itself doesn't really suffer from the heat.

Pete.

Good question Pete. I with limited knowledge understand that when a K-Series severely overheats, the integrity of the Cylinder Block and Head material is compromised and sometimes badly weakened. Cue loosening of liner locations and Fire Ring indents in Cylinder Head particularly the area close to Exhaust Valves.

I suspect one or both can play a part here depending on severity of excess heat. Only needs a slight weakening and enlargement of the Liner Location and that enables one or both the above scenarios.

The basically very similar MG6 1.8T engine ( Chinese version of Rover's K-Series ) I have been informed by someone when they worked for the Chinese operation at Longbridge, that the Chinese use a FORCED not GRAVITY fed casting process for those major engine components, the Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head. This must result in a stronger structure. When fitting the MG6 engine to one of my MG ZT-T 1.8Ts, there were a range of improvements clear to be seen. At the time the real improvement was unseen. That of the superior casting process.

There is a possibility of all my work being a waste of time. I will do it to the best of my caring ability with the benefit of not having a profit or time gun held to my head as is all too often the case in the pro-environment repair shop. By being thorough and taking my time ( no pressure to have car ready for journey to work tomorrow ) a competent repair should be the end result.

If after all that, it does not work out, no real harm done. It's mainly a learning experience for me which I enjoy.

By the way there is more than one example of MG6s with high mileages ( 200,000 mile plus ) one a Taxi, never needing much engine work at all, just regular servicing. Few Rover K-Series 1.8s can claim that. My 1.8 ZS bought new in 2003 now with 100,000 miles on it still no CHG issues... fingers crossed. I did catch a totally worn out Water Pump which if not spotted, would lead to cylinder head gasket DAMAGE on my MG ZS, which far too many confuse with failure both within the trade ( often conveniently for them ) and car consumer circles.

Sunny now so out with the tools soon. More progress today. Some updates later today may follow if of interest.

RoverP480 3rd December 2019 13:47

I thought the Longbridge casting were vacuum cast not gravity !

Abott10 3rd December 2019 17:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoverP480 (Post 2779559)

I thought the Longbridge casting were vacuum cast not gravity !

I do not know how the Longbridge/Powertrain engine components were cast.


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