The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - how to change all your leds ipk switches etc blue conversion

still under construction

hi everyone, the how to will not be completed untill i have converted the next set which im waiting to arrive. i am missing a few pics but what i have till now is posted.

this is a how to guide and only offers guidance only. It does require technical experience and some tooling. it is a guide to convert all your leds to a different color. The most popular is to convert everything to blue. other members have done this conversion way before i ever had a zt and those members deserve credit as without their posts i may never have undertook the task. i think a how to is long overdue.

i have converted sets for other 75 zt owners and would be happy to help if you dont have the know how to complete the job either in person or via post

some example pics

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...201058_LLS.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...201109_LLS.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...201014_LLS.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_184416.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030552.jpg

IPK

to remove the ipk you will need to remove the 2 phillips screws holding on the uper brow trim then pop it off, easier if steering wheel is adjusted down

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030762.jpg

then remove the 1 philips screw holding in the ipk

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030764.jpg

then pull and slide out the ipk. there are 2 connectors on the back you will need to remove. you press the small button piece and slide the arm over to release them

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030765.jpg

with ipk on workbench remove the trip button rubber. it simply pulls off. be gentle though

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_104146.jpg

then you want to remove the lens housing. use some screw drivers to release the clips top and bottom

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_104242.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_104331.jpg

lens removed

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_104359.jpg

take a picture of where the needles sit. the temp and fuel actually return past the bottom

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_104431.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_104439.jpg

also note how the revv and speedo needles operate. before removing spin them round and back to start position. you will find they then bounce or are spongy to the start point. note the position so you get them back on correctly

now remove the needles. i found it much easier and less damaging to use a plastic trim tool

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_104914.jpg

then remove the 6 torx screws from the back

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_105058.jpg

the grey faceplate will then lift off

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...8_105241-1.jpg

then lift off the security light lens and keep safe.dont forget about it as it is easy to forget to refit it

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_105256.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_105303.jpg

then lift off the dial faces. there are 2 plastic lenses behind and 2 metal collets.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_105501.jpg

then we need to split the black and white plastic casings. press the tab on each end to semi release it.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_105603.jpg

it will not come apart untill you press the 4 tabs on each of the 2 connectors.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...8_105704-1.jpg

the black plastic case should then lift off to reveal the circuit board

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_105800.jpg

you will then need to release the 4 clips of the metal lcd screen case to remove the circuit board

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...8_105846-1.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_105906.jpg

if you have the highline screen you will need to prise it away gently from the white casing before the circuit board will split. also put some tape on the screen ribbon chord where it attaches to the board as it is very fragile. also during the change of leds try not to move the unit too much as to minimise risk of damaging the chord connector

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_105947.jpg

the screen filter may also fall out so take note of its orientation. i also put tissue on the screen to keep it safe

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_110234.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_110243.jpg

you will now have the pcb ready to work on. in the second pic i have highlighted the smd you will need to change

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_110638.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_110717.jpg

this one is for the security light. i did mine blue and it looks really good at night

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_110743.jpg

these are the smds for the gauges and clock. 4 for the clock and 12 for the gauges.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_110915.jpg

you will need a good soldering iron , solder and flux. i use a rosin flux pen applicator i got from maplin about £12. it is a no clean flux designed for electronics and stops corrosion. i also have the precision gold soldering iron from there which is very good. link for the blue hyper side smds used also below

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/visibl...633D4E4F4E4526

http://www.maplin.co.uk/rosin-flux-dispensing-pen-33850

http://www.maplin.co.uk/60w-professi...tection-511927

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_111642.jpg

i use the soldering iron on full power (400 degrees) to remove the old smds as they are silver soldered on. a pair of tweezers is essential too

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...8_111911-1.jpg

once the old smds are removed i then put some flux on and run the iron over to clean the face of the contact

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_112209.jpg

then check the smds polarity compared to the old ones to make sure they will work once soldered on. they will not work if the polarity is reversed like all leds. i used a 3v keyfob battery a pick tool and a bit of solder

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_112433.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_114850.jpg

then flux the new smd

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_112546.jpg

i then reduce the temperature of the soldering iron to 300 otherwise the new smds will be overheated during soldering and may not work or fail prematurely.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_120637.jpg

also flux the circuit board again and solder the smds on

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_121239.jpg

so the gauges are converted, you can now convert the mileage display leds if you want it a different color, there are 10 for the mileage display. the smds are plcc2. it is also the same smd for the security light

http://www.phenoptix.com/products/3528-smd-led-smt-cmt

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...8_121220-1.jpg

again they are polarity sensitive so check which way round the original ones are then solder the new ones on

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_114850.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_115851.jpg

once the mileage display smds have been fitted you will find the display will be extremely bright. to cure this you change the resistor arrangement to dim them down to the correct level. there are 10 resistors as pictured. they are arranged differently on non highline circuit boards.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_122053.jpg

i remove 8 of the resistors and connect all the platforms together using thin wire, you have to get the resistors very hot to desolder them. i have marked the ones i removed in red on the pic

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_122136.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_123304.jpg

you will then need to reverse the disassembly of the ipk to fit it back together. dont forget to refit the secuity led lens. the difficult part is resetting the needles in the right position so spent time getting it right. your ipk is now converted.

CLOCK

to convert the clock you will need 4 of the hyper side smds as previously used on the gauges. the clock is a pain to remove. you need to pull the main fascia trim off. it is only clipped on, no screws.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_131400.jpg

the trim will not come all the way off due to the cable for the cold flap. you have to fiddle for a while with a small pick tool to get it off. also unplug the clock by pulling the connector. you will then have the entire trim on the bench ready to remove the clock. the clock simply prised out. it is clipped all around so a couple of small screw drivers does the trick.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_132645.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_132656.jpg

remove the front bezel and lens

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_132913.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_132942.jpg

using a pick tool prise out the 2 securing tangs

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_133229.jpg

the 2 buttons also pull out past the plastic face. you will then need to prise the clock circuit board out. it is held in by the 2 tangs you opened up and some glue. so some force is required to get it to move.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_133238.jpg

then remove the clock hands by pulling them off, also pull off the clock face card

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_133405.jpg

you will then have the circuit board and can see the 4 smds than need replacing

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_134847.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...918_134104.jpg

as before solder in the new smds and reassemble the clock.

HEATED SEAT SWITCH, CENTRAL LOCK SWITCH, BLIND SWITCH, CRUISE SWITCH, INFO BUTTON

the procedure for these switches is very similar so do the same for each, all the switches simply pull out and unplug. you may need to use a plastic trim tool for the central lock switch . to convert to blue you will need to use 1 plcc2 smd, the same type used on mileage display. you need to prise off the front of the switch

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030532.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030534.jpg

the switch and led unit simply pulls off.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030534.jpg

as before use a 3v battery arrangement to test the polarity of the existing led so you can solder the new one on the correct way around

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030535.jpg

i then crush the existing led with pliers and remove the orange casing leaving just 2 electrodes to solder the new led to. i found this to be the easiest way of doing it.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030536.jpg

solder the new smd the correct way around

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030537.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030538.jpg

reassemble to complete. you may find the switch to illuminate too brightly. so to dim down i just used a small piece of masking or duct tape over the face of the smd to reduce the brightness to the desired level. i found for the switches 2 layers of masking tape gives the original light intensity. a crewed method but it works

CIGAR LIGHTER

i changed my cigar lighter to a blue one. unfortunatly i didnt take many pics but here is some guidance. the one i bought was

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Cigar...item5d4375d84d

the unit is made by team heko the same as the wind deflectors we fit so high quality. you have to file out the hole to get the new one to fit. once i had fitted mine i was dissapointed with the brightness of the blue so i resin glued a blue 501 led bulb to the bulb mount and it then was perfect. the fitment of the socket was a little less than perfect and loose so i used some quick steel to secure it tightly from behind.

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030552.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030529.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0/P1030530.jpg

HEADLAMP SWITCH , AIR CON AND WINDOW SWITCHES TO FOLLOW