Vis Motor Advice Needed
 

Had my vis motors checked out at the carrsington meet and were both dead. Many thanks to stocktake & tatts for their help.

Have now built my own test box and have had both vis motors off and stripped them down and resoldered all the joints etc.

When i reassembled them the power vis (front one if i'm correct) works perfectly but the balane one still doesn't seem to work. I stripped them down again and swapped the drive motors over and again power ok balance not.

I stripped the balance again and connected my test box there is movement from the motor but not enough to turn the cam wheel if i remove the cam wheel the motor spins ok but re-insert it and the motor stops. Bearing in mind that this motor drives the power vis ok anybody any clue's to why it wont turn the cam wheel it seems free enough.
Your help is greatly appreciated
BTW if anybody wishes to test there motors in the NOTTINGHAM area please don't hesitate to get in touch.

Cheers Guys

MIKE

Mike, good to see you've got the test box built and at least one motor running, bit cold at carsington wasn't it.

If it had been warmer I would have stripped your vis motors and put in the spare boards I had in my car. But when you can't feel your fingers it wasn't really an option.

Is your test box 9 volt or 12?

If 9v temp. increase to 12 via a couple of wires to the car battery and see if it improves things.

Also check the long pins that go to the connector these can work loose also.

Sounds like there's a problem with either the microswitches or the relay. The microswitches can appear fine when tried with a meter but when voltage is applied they can collapse.

That's why I just change the lot with new components these days, saves messing about.

Russ

I'd say microswitches too. The contacts can go high resistance: one of mine had and a eplacement cured.

Aye Russ it was a bit FRESH at carsington.
If it had been warmer i may have stripped off and gone for a swim brrrrr.

Have fitted the test box with the 9v pp3 will try your method of 12v.

I did find some dry joints so i re-soldered them all then i got the power vis working a treat but i noticed that the drive wheel in the balance motor is slightly larger thus as you suggest probably needs the 12v.

So is it possible to replace the components on the board i was under the impression that the components were hard to come by?

Many thanks to you and lowedb for your replies it is very much appreciated

MIKE

Mike you have a P.M. ;)


Russ

Can I check my vis motors by holding one in my hand and revving the engine to 3500rpm to see if it moves??
my manifold seems ok and attached but occassionally i get a slight rattle (not the purge valve) how would a duff motor do this as there is no movement in the vis motor output???:confused: surely it would hold it all still!:shrug:

I don't think this would be advisable as you will have far too much air entering the inlet manifold and i would be surprised if the engine would rev at all.
AFAIK the vis motors have to have an air tight seal to prevent air intake into the inlet.

Unfortunately you can't do that , without the vis motor in place the car will rev to well over that, because you will bypass the throttle body, effectively a wide open throttle.;)

You can test them on an another V6 by plugging them in whilst the ones on that car are in place then revving the engine.;)

Best to see about borrowing the club vis test box or finding one in your area.

The Vis motors have little to do with the manifold rattling. The noise comes from the excessive play in the plastic ball joints and butterfly pivots within the manifold. A working vis motor may prevent some of the noise but not guaranteed I'm afraid.


Russ

Oil in the motor, IMO. Try to drain it using compressed air.

As the OP posted both motors work fine when fitted on the power vis board. Definately a component problem on the balance board. ;)

Russ