Is a B&D Simple Start safe to use?
 

I've got a Black and Decker Simple Start batterypack, and I was thinking about putting it in my 'emergency kit' for the car.

The way it works is that it contains a big battery (that should be charged).
When you battery fails and you run out of electricity, you connect the battery-pack via the aux-socket. Because the current in the batterypack is bigger than that of the car battery, it will slowly charge it, giving you (after a few minutes) the possibility of starting your car again.

This way you don't have to get out of the car in a battery-related emergency.

But it says very clearly in the manual that you should check with your manufacturer if the simple is compatible with this.
Does anybody know anything about this??

I would hate to blow my ECU because I'm trying to charge my battery after I left my lights on....

http://db2.stb.s-msn.com/i/30/A78254...DFD938FCD8.jpg

Dont know if these are compatible with the ECU/BCU of our cars. it's impossible to leave your headlights on with the key out, as the 'see you home' lights turn off the headlights after 30 seconds or so. Likewise with with interior lights.

If it's something you do or worry about doing, you could swap your tail lights & side lights for LED alternatives, as they'll still be on in the morning :}

Well, my car is a bit of an exception... My lights will just stay on for hours and hours (until the battery is empty). Not sure why.
But that will be changed soon when I change my BCU for a MK2 one.

I'm asking this because you never know when something like this happens. Perhaps my battery is on it's last legs without me knowing it. I might not be able to start it all of a sudden. And that's why this batterypack can be a great help/ I just don't wanna destroy my electronics.

Already swapped most of my lights for LED lights, so that should be fine :P.

See you home lights can be activated with a T4 Session ;)

The whole concept is flawed. You simply cannot charge a 12v battery from a 12v battery. To get current and charge to transfer you would need at least 13.8v from the charging battery and at best it will manage around 12.7v if you are lucky.

You will find out it doesn't work, the first time you actually need it. There are lots of reviews on the internet, on this and others similar.

Actually had to use it in my previous car (older car with very simple electronics) and if you leave it connected for about 10 - 15 minutes, it works fine.
Don't expect to fully charge the battery, but it will give just enough power to start the engine a few times. As soon as it's running, you can disconnect it.

It's not strange either, when a battery is flat it's not just the voltage that goes down (obviously) but also the ampere. When I connect my charged batterypack, it will have 12v (at least) which is more then the battery in the car. It will also have more ampere at that moment than the car battery. So it's not strange that the electricity will 'flow' into the car battery.

It's no miracle cure, and one of those powerpacks (with jumper leads) is much better, but it does work. Most people in reviews expect it to work within seconds and to give a full boost. It doesn't. It just gives the battery a little boost, just enough to start your car again.

But the manual very clearly states that some of the newer cars have sophisticated electrical systems that can be 'damaged' if this system is used. And I really don't wanna damage my electrical system....

I'd much prefer the 'basic' version, a small lead acid battery in a similar housing with a set of crocodile clips.
Opening the bonnet and connecting one of those is hardly more effort, and you can start straight away. Plus you don't risk frying anything!

I use a 20v solar panel 'trickle charger' plugged into the cigarette lighter socket so a different power source will be OK. The panel wattage is minute - produces a few milliamps probably, but it's better than nowt and may help negate the standard parked-up drainage through the alarm system, etc. It only does 3,000mpa.

TC

I have one of the croc clip on types, with a compressor and a light. It has never been any use for starting my cars, but I wouldn't worry about connecting it due to that warning about ECU's - it is a backside covering exercise, nothing more. Why would one tiny 12v battery damage your ECU, when connecting a much bigger one (your fully charged car battery) does not?

The auxiliary battery must at a greater voltage than the car battery for a current to flow into the car battery. If the battery voltage has dropped, assuming the auxiliary is charged to the nominal 13.8 v a standard lead acid works at, then it will work.
The car will just see 13.8 v so why would the ECU be put at risk?

The fuse protecting the auxiliary socket will prevent the current flowing into the car battery exceeding 10A - even if the auxiliary unit were capable of delivering it, which I somehow doubt.

I suspect the unit will be fine for tickling up the car battery if it drops below the critical voltage which disables the car. And if that gives you peace of mind go for it!

A