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-   -   Aluminium rear bumper beam - Galvanic corrosion? (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=302193)

The Mighty Quinn 16th January 2020 18:37

Aluminium rear bumper beam - Galvanic corrosion?
 
4 Attachment(s)
Having bumpers and trims all off the car at the moment, I'm coming across a few little corrosion issues.

See images attached of the rear bumper beam (removed from my car) - it's got some oxidisation around the bolt holes - presumably galvanic corrosion from where it's been touching the steel bolts?

Now, the corrosion isn't bad. But, is there an easy fix for this type of thing?

The only other place I've seen this on the car is where the aluminium part of the rear window seals touches the steel of the rear quarter-light upright (and turns most of the aluminium/seal to mush) :(

I'm thinking of lining all such areas/bolts with a good smear of red rubber grease (which is nice and tacky).


Cheers,
Karl.

oswestryalex 16th January 2020 23:29

The easiest thing is to make sure there is no physical contact between the 2 different types of metal; something that coats it and stays there - I would say a very tough paint if it would stay in place; Hammerite?

T-Cut 17th January 2020 08:21

Bolts/studs labbered in WaxOyl will fix it.


TC

kelvo 17th January 2020 09:36

We have assemblies at work on our trains which are dissimilar metals and we use a non-chromate jointing compound between them to prevent electrolytic corrosion - i'm surprised the MGR never did originally.

In the case of steel vs aluminium, the ally is the sacrificial anode and so will dissolve and leave the steel untouched. I'd suggest probably getting a replacement crash beam and then using the compound between them.

I have seen in the past, barrier tape between mating faces, so you could use duct tape or similar.

https://shop4fasteners.co.uk/duralac...iABEgKaRPD_BwE

roverbarmy 17th January 2020 09:52

I use ACF50 products on dissimilar metals. They use it on aircraft carriers so it must be good. I've found it on Ebay in the past.
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm
Also comes in spray cans. Don't spray anywhere near brake discs though. It does not help braking (as a mate found on his GSF600)!;)
I have a spare rear beam from a low miles 05 car if you want one? Going for scrap soon if not?

Arctic 17th January 2020 09:57

You could always fit Nylon washers, or even fibre washers to the bolts & paper gasket between the crash bar and the chassis arms.

RoverP480 17th January 2020 13:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Mighty Quinn (Post 2787125)

I'm thinking of lining all such areas/bolts with a good smear of red rubber grease (which is nice and tacky).
Karl.

Red Rubber grease used to be Hydroscopic , if it still is, it will absorb water not repel it.

The Mighty Quinn 17th January 2020 16:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by roverbarmy (Post 2787250)
I use ACF50 products on dissimilar metals. They use it on aircraft carriers so it must be good. I've found it on Ebay in the past.
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm
Also comes in spray cans. Don't spray anywhere near brake discs though. It does not help braking (as a mate found on his GSF600)!;)
I have a spare rear beam from a low miles 05 car if you want one? Going for scrap soon if not?


Very kind of you to offer, Mike - thank you.

But no need, I've got a good one to go on (and will keep the old one for spare) :)


Cheers,
Karl.

The Mighty Quinn 17th January 2020 16:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoverP480 (Post 2787281)
Red Rubber grease used to be Hydroscopic , if it still is, it will absorb water not repel it.


Thanks for the info Derek.

I've actually no idea of the hydroscopic properties or otherwise of red rubber grease :shrug:

But I've had good results with the stuff I've used in the past, so don't have any worries in this regard.


Cheers,
Karl.


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