Broken O/S front spring help
 

I broke a front spring in one of our numerous potholes. I thought this might be straightforward but it isn't. The spring broke and the main part escaped out of the spring protector. See pic. It seems to me that the broken spring is forcing the hub outward and it won't allow the lower ball joint to come out of the hub. The second picture shows that I have almost got the spigot out of the hub but can't get it any further. I have spent the morning with lump hammers and various levers and of course I lent my prying bar to someone whose identity I cannot recall. I am considering undoing the three bolts inside the engine compartment to allow the strut to move but fear that I might just end up worse off. The other possibility is to undo the lower suspension arm ball joint that is at the right anle bend in the arm. The lower suspension arm is only a few hundred miles old so I don't want to lose it.

Fred

This vid may help you:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrQfJp8c1OQ
The fact that your spring is broken may complicate matters but the vid will give you most of the steps involved.

I have always done it the other way . That way is much better. I'll try that:D

Did this job last Sunday, balljont get a helper to turn and hold the hub full lock with track rod end removed, get a long bar/drift place it as close to the rear of the ball joint as you can and hammer it down it will come out. Or if it's half way out just use a hammer and tap down on the bottom arm and it will come out, don't be afraid of breaking the arm they are quite tuff. My o/s was seized into the hub and it drifted out no problem n/s came out half way and got tight so hammered the arm and it came out.:}
Just watched the video good luck with getting the pinch bolts out if they have seized mine needed hot spanner and air gun with strut on the bench. :duh:

Going back to the op. Get some 2x2x4ft? roughly 1ft or 2 from the end tie it to the underside of the arm. Put the end under but touching anti roll bar, sub frame, something solid that will not move. I cannot recall where I put my end.
Gently add your your weight on the other end. The joint should part as if you could have done it by hand.


macafee2

I did it the Roverbarmy way. It worked a treat. I didn't think that there would be enough clearance to swing the shock absorber clear of the hub. There was but only just. Many thanks for that Roverbarmy. I had battered away at the lower suspension arm all morning but the spigot would simply not come out. The Roverbarmy way worked a treat I was amazed that there was enough clearance between the lower end of the shock absorber and the hub. There was but only just; miliimetres to spare. Many thanks every body. I think Ill get a garage to compress the spring tomorrow.
:D
Fred

I have been worried about a rounded off head on a pinch bolt for several years.
The spring had broken but I managed to replace it without unfastening the clamp.I decided it was time to get the bolt out this week, used a small gas torch on the casting and bought a set of Irwin bolt removers- hammered the 14mm one onto the remains of the bolt head and eventually the bolt started to move. You can't work the bolt in and out, the remover socket comes off in forward gear. Bolt came out and new one winging its way here as I type. The near side clamp bolt was no problem at all.

The Haynes/Roverbarmy method did not work when I tried to replace the strut on the nearside. There was no clearance between the bottom end of the shock absorber and the hub casting. I had to revert to the standard 'workshop'manual method using a steel tube and piece of chain to remove the outer spigot on the lower suspension arm. Anyway job is now done. Thanks to everybody who replied.

Fred

Angle grinder and cut the broken spring into smaller pieces?