rover 1.1 metro
 

hi guys, i bought a metro as a run around to save putting miles on my lovely 75. and also to use as a work horse....anyway sometimes when i switch off metro the engine try to carry on ie a couple of fires from piston....can anyone tell me how to get rid ... no jokes please like take it to tip... oh and it has got the rover engine
thanx guys

Is it fed by a carburettor or is it injection? If it was the Metro with the A Series that would be easy enough to explain the run-on. Run-on is unusual, if not impossible, on injected engines, normally.

Being a 1.1 i would think it is the 8 valve K series, If it is an early one it could still be carb - if so is the tick over too high?

1.1i would be 8 valve single point injection. Carb model was 1.1S. Odd that it should run on though.

Have you checked out the technical help forum at www.austin-rover.co.uk ?

It's a mine of information on all things Austin-Rover.

We have cheap sets of alloy wheels for Rover Metro/100, if that is of any interest to you.

hi
 

hi well it is a carb version and i wondered if it was advance retard on distributor or over heating ?????

What is the idle speed? Too high and it will run on

If it is a carb model, then unlike an injector set-up, it is difficult to stop the fuel continuing to flow in if the engine is still turning and the pistons/valves are still pulling in air.

On MGBs and A series Minis etc, the problem is two parts, usually the wrong fuel quality (Octane too low for the design of the head) and a build up of carbon residue that can glow red hot and act like a spark plug. It is a bit erratic as there is no control over the firing of the mixture so it tends to be a very rough run-on when switching off.

The MGOC sell an anti-run-on valve which essentially is linked to the ignition and floods the inlet manifold with air to drastically reduce the vacuum when you switch off and prevents the run-on. Modern unleaded fuels do tend to burn a bit hotter than the older lead based fuels so it is an issue, in part of the modern fuel.

Some suggest running the car, as I have found also on my BGT, on Shell V-Power for a few tankfuls to help clean up some of the deposits in the head.

However, ensure the timing is set for the 95 Octane fuel you are most likely using. The book figure is a guide only so it may mean having to fiddle a little on the road and listen for pinking. It might also help to increase the spark plug gap by a few thou, too.

If none of the above are of much interest, then the simple cure is to let the engine idle for about 30 secs to cool down a bit before switching off. If this doesn't help then put the clutch in as you switch off as this can add load to the engine and slow the idle speed down to hopefully prevent run-on (and yes it might help to set the idle speed down a bit on the carb). Lastly, if all else fails, then stick the clutch in, select 4th or in your case, probably 5th gear, and make sure the handbrake is on. As you switch off and the run-on begins, let the clutch up slowly to stall the run-on.