Towbar Fitting - Electrics
 

The caravan thread just kicked me into sourcing a towbar and electrics for my saloon, and I had a question regarding electrics.

Is there a wiring kit that will plug directly into my loom/harness somewhere and will I require a bypass relay?. Or is it a case of having to cut and join wires into the loom.

And finally, is this price good:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=290467140552

It's for my 2000 V6 Saloon.

Thanks,

Swanny

Looks a good price to me, i want to get a towbar for my ZT so interested in how easy it is to install.

Are there any kits where i won't need to remove (or cut) the bumper to fit it?

I think the one above fits both without a bumper cut. Bumper removal is only about 8 screws.
http://www.discount-towing.co.uk/home/pdf/424E.pdf

Apologies, I found this thread:
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...fitting+towbar

That one uses relays to bypass the can-bus lamp failure system - in othe words if a trailer lamp fails, you will not know about it. It is also a just the basic single outlet type, it will not supply the fridge nor charge the caravan's battery. The extra S socket will cost about £20 on top. Other than that, it is a good price.

Around £120 extra, will buy you the proper Rover 75 can-bus unit to use, instead of the simpler relay system. The actual fitting of the towbar, is the easiest one I have ever fitted on any of my cars. I would hope the one in the picture of the ad is not the one they actually supply, or that may prove to be unecessarily difficult ;)

Thanks Harry, much appreciated. I've never used twin electrics, as I tend to have the whole thing hooked up at home for a couple of days before hand, and never travel more than about 3 hours. The fridge (and my beer) is always nice and cold upon arrival!.

The bar does look very easy to fit. I might just fit it, and then get the local towbar guy to do the electrics. He's said he'll do it for £50 including the parts.

Just bought these three items, for less than £100, so quite happy, but annoyed that I forgot to take the AL-KO ball off my old car!!:mad:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=230409320771

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I posted the info below on another thread may be useful to you.

Some more notes - the 7 way relay includes a buzzer that sounds when the trailer lamp is working, so you know when it's not!

The second socket is for charging caravan battery & reverse lights.

Cutting the rear bumper is trivial, took me less than 60 seconds with a jig saw & you can't see the cuts once refitted. The whole fitment took me half a day mostly removing trim & wiring.

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I’ve just finished wiring a tow bar on a tourer using a universal kit with a twin socket.

For single rear-lights-only setup you will need the socket & a 7 way relay that ‘repeats’ the light cluster signals without upsetting the can-bus system. The 7 ways can come with integral sounder / monitor for failed trailer lamps, which is a legal requirement now.

For twin setups you also need a split charge relay. These simplify installation as they only need one main 12v feed and detect engine running (though change of voltage) and switch the socket outputs, preventing a flat battery. You can share the 12v feed for with the 7 way relay. This feed should be suitably rated & fused.

I tapped the 12v feed from the fusebox tow bar socket using a big spade connector. The 7 way is connected by crimp connectors just behind the left hand light cluster (one wire run from the right hand indicator) you need to remove the fluffy side trim to access them.

This whole set up including tow bar cost me about £140 all new items. Hope this helps!

Cheers Fooman, much appreciated.
Swanny

Where is the "12v feed from the fusebox tow bar socket"? Thanks.