Rover 75 Key Fob Stopped Working
 

Hi guys,

So after driving my lovely Rover 75 for some months with zero issues i had to discover my key not working earlier today.

I first thought its a battery problem so i drove home just fine changed the battery and nothing.

I pressed the keys multiple times, helt the keys down, started the car and tried the same, opened and closed all doors just to make sure they are closed correctly.

But sadly nothing helped.


Does this seem to you guys like a broken key or maybe a sync issue?

I tried looking up ways to sync but nothing seems to work.


All doors open / close just fine using the lock.

I also took the new battery out for some time and put it back in to make sure it fits correctly.
The chance its a dead battery is quite small tbh and the old battery showed no signs of being empty prior to today.




Any tips or links to a quality replacement dealer are appreciated :)

Also the red lights on the key work

I'm guessing we're talking about the remote operation ...

A member here in Sweden had the same problem a few days ago. Tried the sync procedure as per handbook, didn't help. Then tried what he referred to as a "Norwegian re-set": took one of the cables off the main battery and held it briefly against the other. Tried the sync procedure and it worked. First time I've ever heard of it.

Otherwise people tend to recommend a main battery disconnect for half-an-hour, if that fails then Toaf can reactivate remote boards.

Regards

Yes i was talking about the remote function key it self works fine.

Are you talking about the cars battery or the keys?

Thanks.

The car's main battery. His method, I've never hear of it before, use at your own discretion.

Regards

Sounds like we are having the exact same problem ( and we do not have a spare remote..) I will disconnect the car's battery tonight and see if the 'turn it off and back on ' fix works :shrug: EDIT: disconnected car battery -ve for 30 mins, sync key ( pressed lock 4 times quickly ). Remote still does not work. Holding down either lock or unlock button the light flashes- this is normal?

First I would open the case and make sure that the open and close switches are still in place. In one of my keys the open one was loose. Had it soldered and working fine now.

Regards

This might sound daft but have you tried driving to another location and trying the key again ? This happened to me a few years ago when my remote function stopped working at home but when I later went to the shops it was fine. I came home and it stopped again ! This went on for a couple of days before righting itself. My only thought was signal interference from some source such as phone mast or remote doorbell close to my drive ?

Anyway it never happened ever again ! :shrug:

Thank you guys for the answers but sadly nothing helped so far.

My GF had a spare key which she tried yesterday but it also didnt work (her key is way newer and worked before) which makes me think its one of these 3 things:

1. The car forgot its own unlock key / reset the key to something else.

2. The chip is stuck here a fuse pull or battery removal might help (will try that this weekend).

3. The chip inside of the car broke its "wireless" function which just means its not going to work anymore.


I will try pulling the fuse on friday when i have a little bit of time, i will also have to create a new post for that as i have no idea what fuse to pull lol.

If you get yourself a copy of Toaf and a KKL cable you can re-programme your remote boards, I've done this myself using both a new remote board and even a secondhand remote board. Search this forum for information.

Toaf is an invaluable tool to owners especially outside of UK who have little or no back-up from traditional T4 dealers/owners.

Regards

[QUOTE=COLVERT;2776876]The micro chip in the key is very small and can easily fall out while changing the battery.---:eek::eek::eek:[/QUOTE

Do you still have this bit.---( Transponder. )

[QUOTE=COLVERT;2777277]

Thank you for your answer but ive had 2 keys which worked and now none works.

I also changed the battery after it stopped working on one of the keys which means it couldnt have fallen out besides there is a 2nd key which has not been opened and is pretty new :)

The keys may need a reset place key in door lock and press lock or unlock button four times to re-sync the fob, the chip is inside the key hence the physical connection.:shrug:

Worth a try - if no luck i would seek advice of BigRuss - drop him a PM.

[QUOTE=COLVERT;2777277]Transponder is for the immobiliser only, not linked to the remote locking/unlocking in any way.

Sorry for the obvious question but has the OP done a battery reset? This can cure all sorts of gremlins by disconnecting the car main battery for 30mins.

I hadn’t heard of it either until recently.
However, this procedure is well documented, as it carries out a hard re-boot, with capacitor discharge, when a system has got confused.

A few days ago, SWMBO’s Peugeot 308’s central display failed to display and I fixed it by using this method.
It involves disconnecting the battery leads, and keeping them well away from battery terminals, then connect them by touching, or my preferred method, is to use a link lead with crocodile clips.

I have never tried it on my Rover 75 as a battery disconnect has cured a multiple of electrical sins for me.

Norwegian fix - works!
 

Yes - tried this trick and it did the job, now all restored as before and both my key fobs work on my MG ZT. I wonder if it is capacitors in the system that are discharged by shorting out the 2 leads like that?

I've no idea why other than what you've already suggested, but thanks for getting back and confirming it works.

Regards

Used Hard reset ( Connecting the positive & negative leads from battery ) on my Discovery 3 and solved many issues especially generated by low battery voltage.
WARNING done with battery disconnected, & definitely not shorting the battery terminals

Not shorting the battery, disconnect the leads and short them together
has the effect of discharging the car electrical systems, when power is reapplied the systems re boot from scratch.

Try the Norwegian 'fix' that was suggested on a similar thread. You disconnect the battery and then short the two cables across each other (not the battery of course) - reconnect and then sync the keys. I had exactly this issue and followed this procedure and it worked a treat. Seems as though there are capacitors in the circuit that need to discharge, and by shorting it out, completing the circuit, you achieve that. Give it a try - as the alternative may be to find someone with T4 to reset everything.

Hi,
I am the guy that vitesse is talking about and I can confirm that the reset (by disconnecting one of the battery cables and put them together) worked for me on the 75, after I have had a serious battery discharge.
I got the idé from a garage when when I had similar discharge problems with my other car (Jaguar XK). Unfortunately it didn't cure the Jag problems. But I had to drive it to the garage and have the diagnosis computer connected. they told me that the car computers were full of failure codes.

Curiosa, why we call it "norwgian reset". We like to make fun of our neighbors in Norway ( I'm sure they do the same to us). When you have an issue with your electric (comuterized) equipment you just switch it off and on again, and the it works, Right?
We say, when norwgians have trouble whith their car, they switch it off, lock the doors, then unlock and restart it!
Disconnecting the cables and shorten them is just one step further. And it actually works - At least on Rovers...


By the way, I have now bought two of this for my cars: http://www.gunson.co.uk/content/imag...119_PIS_V2.pdf
Hopefully I will now have a chance to charge the battery before the discharge goes to far.

Hi. Did you ever fix this problem? My chip has also stop working and the sync feature isn't working

We used to do similar to that with PCs/laptops at work... power down, unplug them, then press power on again to discharge any components that were causing a problem with start-up, worked 9 times out of 10.