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-   -   diesel oil light (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=294208)

tonytolle 23rd March 2019 14:51

diesel oil light
 
I am still trying to ascertain how the oil light is powered on a diesel. I understand that the ECU reads the status of the sensor from co 606 pin 41 but how is this information conveyed by the ECU to the light itself ,and where is the other side of the light powered from. Also does the ECU need the connection to the sensor ie earth or no earth ,in order to start/ run the engine ,or can it be disconnected .I will be grateful for any help thanks.

bl52krz 23rd March 2019 16:08

Why do you want to know.? Is the light staying on all the time.?

Mike Noc 23rd March 2019 17:28

The status of the oil light is relayed to the IPK on the CANbus. If your oil light doesn't come on when you turn the key to position II then chances are that the CANbus controller has failed in the ECM, a common result of the ECM going for a swim :getmecoat:

marinabrian 23rd March 2019 19:15

Tony is running a M47R in a boat, so not as straightforward as one might think ;)


To be fair, the oil pressure is fed via the CANBUS to the IPK, and I suspect the easiest way to address this is to fit either a bog standard oil pressure switch and separate lamp, or an oil pressure gauge ;)

I would love to see some pictures of your install :)

Brian :D

trikey 23rd March 2019 19:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian (Post 2721411)

I would love to see some pictures of your install :)

Me too.. ;)

Mike Noc 24th March 2019 08:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian (Post 2721411)
Tony is running a M47R in a boat, so not as straightforward as one might think ;)


To be fair, the oil pressure is fed via the CANBUS to the IPK, and I suspect the easiest way to address this is to fit either a bog standard oil pressure switch and separate lamp, or an oil pressure gauge ;)

I would love to see some pictures of your install :)

Brian :D

Yes for marine use I'd fit a T connection with one side going to an oil pressure gauge and the other to the oil pressure switch then hard wire a warning buzzer in so it will self test every time you turn the key (or press the starter button).

Plus one more to see some install photos. :drool4:

tonytolle 24th March 2019 09:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc (Post 2721524)
Yes for marine use I'd fit a T connection with one side going to an oil pressure gauge and the other to the oil pressure switch then hard wire a warning buzzer in so it will self test every time you turn the key (or press the starter button).

Plus one more to see some install photos. :drool4:

Many thanks for all the replies ,there doesn't appear to be enough room behind the filter for a T piece and pressure sender ,and I am reluctant to fit additional pipework. If I simply remove the existing lead from the switch in the block and replace it with a lead directly to a light on the dash ,will the ECU notice.? Thankyou for the interest in the project I will take some photos ,this diesel engine is a remarkable piece of engineering and I am pleased to have saved one from the crusher.

tonytolle 24th March 2019 14:43

7 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian (Post 2721411)
Tony is running a M47R in a boat, so not as straightforward as one might think ;)


To be fair, the oil pressure is fed via the CANBUS to the IPK, and I suspect the easiest way to address this is to fit either a bog standard oil pressure switch and separate lamp, or an oil pressure gauge ;)

I would love to see some pictures of your install :)

Brian :D

Herewith some photos ,it is difficult to photograph some of the detail.The first picture is of the stand alone engine management circuit.I have made two of these ,one is 130hp and the other is uprated to 160hp courtesy of marinabrian, they are protected by a ventilated box when on board These are simply plug and play and can therefore be easily removed from the boat over the winter.The engine drives a waterjet unit,this is one of four that I designed and made many years ago. The jet casing is grp composite ,the internals and control surfaces 316 stainless steel, There is no gearbox needed, reverse is accomplished with a pelton bucket .Cooling is provided by a water cooled heat exchanger using pressurised water from the jet unit so no salt water goes anywhere near the engine. The turbo exhaust/intake air is cooled by a water cooled intercooler in the same way. The engine is on rubber mounts at all four corners and drives a short shaft with uj's at each end ,as there is no thrust involved on this. The dmf has been welded solid.The boat is a 21ft Tremlett from the 1970's in my opinion the best 21ft hull ever made, although I bought it as a wreck.Performance so far has been very encouraging and I am looking forward to this summer. Many thanks for your interest.

Vossy 24th March 2019 16:16

Without any doubt I would quickly take on swapping the alternator in that or even changing the thermostat .. :D

Thanks for sharing.

COLVERT 24th March 2019 16:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian (Post 2721411)
Tony is running a M47R in a boat, so not as straightforward as one might think ;)


To be fair, the oil pressure is fed via the CANBUS to the IPK, and I suspect the easiest way to address this is to fit either a bog standard oil pressure switch and separate lamp, or an oil pressure gauge ;)

I would love to see some pictures of your install :)

Brian :D


Just curious-----is the oil pressure switch a normally closed switch which is opened by oil pressure once the engine is running ? ( thus switching off the dash light. )


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