Diesel intercooler query
 

Had a wee rummage under the duo tone today, and noticed the leak intercooler didn’t look too smart on the drivers side.
Photo from below:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2d29244f73.jpg
And from the front, through the grille...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3ca526f069.jpg
Just wondering if the crud is likely to be due to a hole in the intercooler, or due to the fact that no undertray fitted?
Also spotted a lack of a securing nut on the exhaust flange...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c01a59483b.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That doesn't look oily enough for a leak to me :shrug:

PM me your address if you need an exhaust nut posting, I have new ones.

They always benefit from a power wash inside and out, feels like an extra 10bhp once done.

Very kind offer Trikey, but I found what looks like a suitable flanged nut in the bits n bobs jar, and tightened it up as much as I could.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha..perhaps it previously lived on a farm!
Couldn’t rightly say if mpg has gone down as I haven’t had it long enough to say.
Getting about 39mpg at the moment compared to 43ish on my other auto diesel saloon.
However, it pulls like a train, drives like billyo, and has no smoke, even on hard acceleration.
I tend to put a “new” car through its paces when I get one, (doesn’t everyone?) so that has to be factored in I suppose.😬


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ooh missing stiffnut and for some time too, how did I miss that :shrug:

Perhaps a visit to specsavers is in order :o

Anyway, I blame whoever installed the exhaust, as that's been missing for some time by the look of things Sean.

Buy one of THESE and remake the joint.

Was there any hint of black soot around the flange? if so this may be the culprit of the mystery smell ;)

The intercooler, which end was being photographed ?

Brian :D

Diesel intercooler query
 

I think it’s the driver side going by the picture.
Would need to double check to be sure.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Actually says driver's side.

It looks oily to me , if it had been the other side, I would have thought residue from failed o rings, however oily on that side is either a leak from the PAS cooler pipework joint, or the intercooler itself.

Gunk off the sludge and hose it out, then see what transpires.

Brian :D

The intercooler gunk is on the drivers side. It is a bit oily, but not fresh....like it’s been there for some time.
I did try to spray on some solvent and wipe with a rag, but it only really smeared the gunk.
I think the only reasonable course of action is a bumper off job and
A) try more solvent spray
B) powerhose..😞


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Brian, no, there was no black soot that I could see, but I will still probably buy and fit the gasket you linked to.👍
Something tells me that if the flanged joint was installed with only 2 of the 3 nuts, installing the 3rd nut now (which I’ve done) may not even make much improvement on sealing the gasket (that I only suspect may be leaking).
Hence I’ll remake the joint again as suggested.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Surely if you powerwash a 15year old intercooler, you will just wreck or completely remove all the little fins that become brittle over time....

Yes, that is a strong possibility.
I was thinking of trying gunk remover first, and then going gently with the power washer.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have concerns perhaps an airline or the 'jet' setting on a common garden hose head .

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

Diesel intercooler query
 

Well, I had another look at the intercooler today, and found the offending hole(s).
1 of them is actually visible in the second post of the thread.😳
Difficult to photo the 2 holes but at least 1 is visible behind where the FBH temperature sensor wiring was previously located. (thought to be the cause).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...70a63e11a6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...241b96f18c.jpg
So folks, what’s the options:
- worth fitting a 2nd hand unit?
- new? Have seen a post about a GM unit so might opt for that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your intercooler is fine in the respect of it leaking. But it is not cooling anything needs the muck cleaned out the radiator. Pressure washer on low pressure even a garden hose get that field out of it. Once you have done that she will feel like a different car.
As to the manifold nut just run a new one up it, whilst praying that some nice exhaust fitter hasn’t run the last nut up it with a power gun totally stripping the thread off it.
Alan


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Afraid not Alan. 😞.
When I put my finger over the holes shown in the photo, I can feel the air pressure leaking out.☹️
The oily gunk is only in a 6” area around the holes. The rest of the intercooler is clean.
I hope this may be the cause of the deisely exhaust smells I’ve been getting.
Well, at least I hope that fixing the intercooler sorts that problem out as well.🙄
New nut has been successfully installed on the exhaust downpipe flange.😄
No leaks visible from this joint.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The ones ive done have been fine, the secret is to powerwash them from the front, and blasting water at the fins sideways can break them.

If you are sure it is holed then replace it with a second hand unit.
In the past I have seen me removing the cooler rad and washing it outside and in in the solvent bath with the pump on medium, boy thee look different cleaned up.
If the tanks had a hole in them then it was a a rub with steel wool a coating of flux and silver solder up the offending hole. I used even to be happy silver soldering up individual vertical galleries.
Sadly these days are past can’t hold a micro torch steady enough and also need a very big magnifying glass to see the thing.
Many units are made from thermoplastic these days though don’t remember seeing a plastic one on a 75 but the same repair holds good for them. Just the micro torch gets changed for a plastic welding gun.
Find an afternoon and take it out and give it a good clean so you can see what you are dealing with.
I have fond memories of the winter of 79 I was on station at RAF Swinderby ne’er Newark it was February and there was three feet plus of snow. Then we used to fit ploughs to the front of 7.5 Tonners the only problem was if the driver clipped the kerb with the plough at speed he sent the full plough rig through the main Coolant Rad. We had one tractor with front bucket, along with eight plough units for 7.5 tonners. I seem to remember spending that month repairing Rads at the rate of about five a day.
Personally I think it was a race to see if I could keep the wagons on the road, before the drivers wrecked them. We had to get antifreeze airlifted in by rotary wing aircraft 6, 45 gallon drums to supplement out 3, 45 gallon drums.
Just for fun before falling into my rack one night I welded up a plough with adaption brackets to fit the front of a Jaguar V12 powered, tracked personal carrier. It’s Rads we’re mounted on the flat at the rear of the unit. My joke and the tractor were the only two that I did not have in for repair many many times.
It is sad to think that Airfield is no longer there, think the blew a large part of it up for an episode of “London’s Burning” where the story line had a LPG gas bottling plant on fire.
Sorry for the bit of life story but just had to get it out. Old age !!!
Ba Humbug.
Alan


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Diesel intercooler query
 

No, I was looking at that, but I’ve ordered one from G&M radiators, for £138.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...de80510acb.jpg

Edit, just noticed that the photos used in the link on the previous thread, are the same as those illustrated in G&M sales ad.🤔

There is a “How to” on the forum here using a G&M intercooler, courtesy of Jakg.
How-To - Fitting a G&M Aluminium Intercooler (CDTi)
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...6&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would ask Big Russ his opinion on this type of intercooler :getmecoat:


Brian :D

Sean, you need to read THIS and THIS

Brian :cool:

Yep, I had a car fitted with one of these, nice & shiney and less power made than with an original intercooler :duh:

So the intercooler is volumetrically bigger causing either a pressure drop and/or slower airflow?

Oh dear. That reading doesn’t make for a promising outcome. Not that I was looking to increase power, but a reduced power is never good.😳
Anyhoo, unit is ordered and most likely dispatched.
In the interest of another test of these units, I’ll probably fit anyway, to see does it resolve the diesely exhaust fumes.
What’s the worst that can happen🤔.
At least I’ll have my old one out, to be cleaned and see if it can be mended in any way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Diesel intercooler query
 

Well, I fitted the gm intercooler on Saturday.🤭
It’s a heavy ol’ lump, made of more substantial stuff when compared to the original.😬

1st results driving: didn’t really notice a difference. Still plenty of oomph, and still no black smoke.
After a while: thought I had to rev slightly more for the same acceleration, ie very slightly less torquey.

TOAF results: (at idle and 3000rpm) when up to Temperature.
Pre change: 497 - 692 mg/s
Saturday after change: 490 - 570 mg/s
This eve 1: 500 - 630 mg/s
This eve 2: 490 - 580 mg/s

So, a bit of a mixed bag of results, but erring on the negative side of maf spec, previously advised as: 490-505 at idle to 620-680 at 3000 rpm, with no load.

Will probably take more readings when I can, just to compare.
Old intercooler is now power washed & holes have been “repaired” with araldite, should I wish to refit. I probably will, but not for several weeks.

Did it cure my smelly diesely exhaust fumes.....No.🙄🤬.
Ahh well, that’s another potential cause stroked off the list.
Next is to check if the power flow “sports cat” is just a dummy, like me.😳


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to finish the thread:
Took the marmite duotone to a local exhaust outfit that do “power flow” exhausts.
From visual inspection they confirmed that I had no leaks at the flanged joint photo’d at the start of the thread.
From knocking the side of the “sports cat”, with a small hammer, they also said it was hollow...ie no cat.
Got them to install a new one, and also alter the tailpipe that was only mm’s from the rear bumper, and prone to knocking every once in a while.

Result: fumes now gone 😅 (well, to the point where it is no longer embarrassing to drive in public places)😳

As with most jobs I carry out / get done, I usually create another problem.🙄
In “drive” with foot on the brake, and sometimes when in “park”, the exhaust is vibrating slightly on the rear rubber mount. Ho hum.😞.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At the weekend I decided to refit the original, intercooler that had been repaired by plugging the holes with araldite. (Cause I have nothing better to do with my time🙄).
The car now drives a lot better, more torquey and less revs required for the same output, than when fitted with the gm intercooler.

So, in summary...
- a gm intercooler is almost as good as an original intercooler that has holes in it.🙄
- a gm intercooler is not as good as an original intercooler.😬
- Big russ was correct.... intercooler on cdtl 2004
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...8&share_type=t

I haven’t had a chance to take any MAF readings. Don’t suppose I really need to.🤭
Driving the car says it all.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What about the all metal one Rimmers sells?

Is this the same company, or is it a better reflection of OE specification?
(not that it really matters for me personally, ive never had an issue with the plastic original one aside from doing the rings as standard procedure)

TBH I don’t know anything about Rimmer Bros. IC’s, other than on their website, the photo of the cheaper aftermarket offering looks exactly like the GM IC.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk