Oh it came out. :D

Plenty of heat was applied by the arc welder when a new nut was welded on to the rounded head as a result of the impact wrench trying its best.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/...psiqddtesp.jpg

Then, once the heat had dissipated into the hub, freezing penetrating oil was applied to the bolt, and with the help of a 3/4 inch breaker bar it started to move.

Yes a great bit of kit for the money. Apart from the last pinch bolt, the only other thing it has failed to shift so far is the crank pulley bolt - and you know how tight they can be. A 5 foot scaffold pipe extension to the breaker bar and me swinging on it for all I was worth was needed. :getmecoat:

Just for interest now , here is my own experience with the strut pinch bolt :
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=84261
Since that time I have acquired a set of Irwin spiral toothed bolt removers , and wonder how they would have faired with the wounded bolt ! They have worked well on a few other problems :}

Never had a problem with these, after having one major problem that needed 7hrs of drilling out.

Six sided socket, long long bar, LOTS of heat into the bolt, LOTS of Plusgas, PATIENCE, moving it a bit, then more heat, the more soaking. They will always come out if done patiently and slowly.

Heat should not really be applied to the strut though, but with a very small flame/torch you can get it just on the right parts of the bolt.

Heat cycles combined with penetrating fluid with time to soak... never failed me yet.

However, Im never in a rush to to these, (avoiding another 7hr drillout) so if one is really really bad and has never been moved from factory, rather than take a risk im happy to do it over a few cups of tea and take up to 1hr for a bolt if it avoids more pain down the road :)

Well it came out with no heat just a breaker bar extended lol

I ended up just fitting a strut from a breaker.


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