Sometimes a bit of heat and then cooling it with the penetrating oil works.
As the bolt cools it draws the oil into the bolt and threads. Also the heat can split apart any rust that is in the threads. |
Yeah I've done that before when I worked in a garage, it's too close to brake lines and wires though for heat lol
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Last month Walter help me to change the top mount . We used a long crow bar wedge between the wishbone and drive shaft ( carefully not to damage the drive shaft )on to the back of the front subframe. It is little bit tricky but it is possible. Make sure car is solid on the axle stand .
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As others have said if all else fails get some heat onto it, if you really think the cables are to close get a heat mat from any plumbers merchant and that will protect anything behind it from the heat used them all the time
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Did you manage to get towbar off the tourer :shrug:
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Last one I did was well and truly seized in - the impact gun rounded off the bolt head. :getmecoat:
I got the arc welder out and welded a bigger nut on the end, then with a 3/4 drive socket and breaker bar it finally moved. Turned the current way up when welding as this transfers heat directly into the bolt, causing it to expand a bit and loosen the rust. When it had cooled down but the hub was still warm, sprayed the bolt with freezing penetrating oil, and with a fair bit of swinging on the breaker bar out it came. :D http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/...psiqddtesp.jpg . |
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