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-   -   Clutch and slave cylinder (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=308492)

asantosb 10th October 2020 19:57

Clutch and slave cylinder
 
Hey guys! I bought my Connie 2.0 CDT here in Portugal for 2 years now, has almost 275.000 and it’s used as my daily driver. Was just about to getting it painted, however...
"Finally" clutch/slave problem appeared, as I’ve been reading about this problem for so long now :panic: The previous owner told me that the clutch was changed before I bought it, but now I doubt it that he changed anything or, at least, that he changed the slave.

Today the clutch pedal went all the way down. From what I’ve read it seems to be the slave....
From what I’ve read here it’s advisable to change both clutch, slave and master at the same time right?

Also, I would like to hear some opinions about Luk Repset Pro kit but also about genuine Land Rover clutch (URB500070) and AP clutch, sourcing both cylinders separately, as I read Brian talking about these clutches on one post and they seem considerably cheaper to my budget!!

Thank you in advance everyone!! :D
Cheers from Portugal!
Antonio

trikey 10th October 2020 20:01

Hi Antonio, I normally fit LUK, borg & beck or AP clutches and slave cylinders.

If you change everything inside the bellhousing, you can just clean out and bleed the master cylinder BEFORE connecting it to your new slave cylinder.

I find this works rather than replacing the master cylinder.

Good luck with the change, its not a bad job, just remove the front subframe to make the job easier as you will have more room to remove and refit the gearbox.

COLVERT 10th October 2020 20:37

Will you do the work of replacing the clutch yourself ???

It runs 10th October 2020 20:50

Mine is in bits today. I changed the clutch 14000 miles ago but the concentric bearing failed . Just bad luck.
While the box is semi out I change cover and plate at the same time.
You can do it without removing the subframe but it's tricky .
I have a tazoo master cylinder. If It was to fail I can replace the seals from under the dash.
If anyone disagrees then so be it . But I have done it so ??
Fitted a Borg and beck this time . Can't remember the make of the last one

trikey 10th October 2020 21:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by It runs (Post 2841638)
I have a tazoo master cylinder. If It was to fail I can replace the seals from under the dash.
If anyone disagrees then so be it .

I disagree with the Tazo stuff, they are very hit & miss on quality.

asantosb 10th October 2020 21:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey (Post 2841626)
Hi Antonio, I normally fit LUK, borg & beck or AP clutches and slave cylinders.

If you change everything inside the bellhousing, you can just clean out and bleed the master cylinder BEFORE connecting it to your new slave cylinder.

I find this works rather than replacing the master cylinder.

Good luck with the change, its not a bad job, just remove the front subframe to make the job easier as you will have more room to remove and refit the gearbox.

Hey Trickey! Thank you so much for the tips! Just one thing: from your personal opinion and experience, which brand should I pick for the clutch and cylinder since its my daily driver??

asantosb 10th October 2020 21:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLVERT (Post 2841634)
Will you do the work of replacing the clutch yourself ???

No! I have some guys that worked in Land Rover in England and they‘ll do the job for me... I only have the knowledge and ability to do easier things :D

trikey 10th October 2020 21:19

I'd go with borg and beck first, then Luk second.

asantosb 10th October 2020 21:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey (Post 2841645)
I'd go with borg and beck first, then Luk second.

Thanks!! That’s the one I’m going for then!

Looking through the bay I think I’m going to order this one after providing VIN for the exact fittment: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303465855285

Cheers once again! Hope to have my baby on the road as soon as possible! I’ll keep you posted :D

It runs 11th October 2020 05:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey (Post 2841641)
I disagree with the Tazo stuff, they are very hit & miss on quality.

That's fair enough but it works fine and a genuine one failed I must have a lucky one

DMGRS 12th October 2020 13:04

This is the kit I would fit - a top quality Borg & Beck clutch, along with our tried-and-tested OEM-Q slave cylinder:
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/bud...1069-uub105301

We've sold a lot of these to both trade and retail customers, and by and large they seem to do the job and last well.

planenut 12th October 2020 14:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by asantosb (Post 2841623)
Hey guys! I bought my Connie 2.0 CDT here in Portugal for 2 years now, has almost 275.000 and it’s used as my daily driver. Was just about to getting it painted, however...
"Finally" clutch/slave problem appeared, as I’ve been reading about this problem for so long now :panic: The previous owner told me that the clutch was changed before I bought it, but now I doubt it that he changed anything or, at least, that he changed the slave.

Today the clutch pedal went all the way down. From what I’ve read it seems to be the slave....
From what I’ve read here it’s advisable to change both clutch, slave and master at the same time right?

Also, I would like to hear some opinions about Luk Repset Pro kit but also about genuine Land Rover clutch (URB500070) and AP clutch, sourcing both cylinders separately, as I read Brian talking about these clutches on one post and they seem considerably cheaper to my budget!!

Thank you in advance everyone!! :D
Cheers from Portugal!
Antonio

Hi Antonio, apart from the clutch pedal going to the floor, what else makes you think the clutch has failed? Did you find any fluids below the bell housing?

asantosb 29th October 2020 22:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by planenut (Post 2841955)
Hi Antonio, apart from the clutch pedal going to the floor, what else makes you think the clutch has failed? Did you find any fluids below the bell housing?

Hi planenut!

I couldn't have a look at the bell housing, but the guys that came see my car tried to fill the master to check if there was any leak or whatsoever, but they concluded that the master was good, so the problem would be related to the slave.
So, once someone has to get the job done and get to the bell housing I thought it might be a good idea to change it all and avoid any related problems in a near future.

UPDATE: just ordered the kit + master + differential seals from DMGRS. Hoping next month to have the girl running the roads again :D :D

Odd Job 30th October 2020 11:01

Let me know how you go on please.

It's the bane of my life the clutch in my ZT. :mad:

asantosb 28th November 2020 22:51

Hey guys! Just to let you know that my Connie is back! Thanks so much for the help :bowdown: The clutch is up and running with the DMGRS kit!
Now, there are yet some bits to fix (as usual) so fortunately or unfortunately you'll be hearing from me any time soon haha :D

COLVERT 29th November 2020 09:51

Thank you very much Antonio for coming back to tell us your good news.---Some folk are never heard from again after being given the forum help.----:mad:

asantosb 29th November 2020 18:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLVERT (Post 2851048)
Thank you very much Antonio for coming back to tell us your good news.---Some folk are never heard from again after being given the forum help.----:mad:

I am the one to thank you guys!!
This group as always been of a big help since I own my 75. It is not yet as I would like it to be, but has seen a big improvement since I bought it about 2 years ago here in Portugal :D And as you may understand, there aren't much Rover experts here...

Up next is getting the hood and front bumper painted, fix the driver's seat leather, door cards, headliner and a have a remap done as well... That kind of maintenance that is constantly emptying my wallet hahaha :D


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