Rear lower suspension arm goosed
 

Lower n/s rear suspension arm gave way late Saturday night, just about got home!

Before I start work; in general is it just the 'arms' that fail due to corrosion or should I be looking at replacing the complete subframe assembly? 2004 ZT 200,000 miles!

Your valued experience appreciated.

Subframes are a chunky piece of kit just a wirebrush and protection should suffice. The arm is actually the upper arm ( even though it sits underneath the spring.)
Plenty of threads on here about changing them. Pay particular attention to how carefully you remove the inboard bolts. Back and forth a little at a time is the way to go.

I recently had to replace a rotten rear upper arm on mine, yet the other side and the subframe are perfectly solid. While you're in there have a look and make sure the bottom of your spring hasn't snapped off (reasonably common and not easily detected).

Getting to the inner bolt which I think requires a 15mm socket and may need a bit of modification or the making of a short short extension bar. I found my short extension bar was too long.

I found a spare long extension, cut it to length making sure my new bar included the ratchet end and then ground down the socket end from round to square to accept the socket. To prevent the socket falling off I put a few turns of tape where socket and extension meet and taped them together.

There is a risk the captive nuts they go into my break free but on the two cars I've had the bolts out of this has not happened.

good luck

macfee2

I think I'm going to take the subframe off and look into changing both sides.

For the price, its worth fitting new springs at the same time as new arms.

Thanks all for the valued advice. The wife has a Citroen and by comparison the forum I belong to for that is absolutely rubbish!

Here you go Paul ;)

Plenty of plusgas squirted onto the captive nut end of the bolt through the round hole i the bottom of the subframe, crack off the bolts with a 18" breaker bar, 3" extension and a good quality 15mm socket, by tightening first, then slackening.

Once you've initially slackened the bolts, switch to 3/8" drive socket and ratchet, and work them in and out gently, spraying more penetrating oil onto the bolt as necessary.

If it feels tight at any point during the slackening phase, tighten once more and most importantly be patient ;)

It took me a couple of leisurely hours of carefully working the bolts, but I have to say I'm not in the position where I need to either remove the subframe, or indeed weld up the captive nuts :)

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/a...1&d=1505720653

Slowly slowly, catchy monkey :cool:

See how grotty the inboard ends were :eek:

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/a...1&d=1505720684

Best of luck

Brian :D