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euro44 30th November 2019 17:10

clutch woes
 
Hi all, like many owners of these cars ( great tho they are) just had the clutch fail and would appreciate other owners advise as to where to get it replaced. Am in Chelmsford Essex but the local MR CLUTCH has a poor reputation and I would like it fixed properly, using OE .parts. By the way this forum is so much more useful and friendly than the MG owners club one, sadly.

macafee2 30th November 2019 17:48

first things first, try to decide what part has failed.
can you give us an indication of what has happened?

without any other info, remove the clutch master cylinder cap and the rubber sleeve underneath, this is often referred to as a condom.
Is there any clutch fluid in the master cylinder?

The clutch master cylinder is attached to the clutch pedal, you need to look behind the pedal to see it.

macafee2

marinabrian 30th November 2019 19:29

Do not buy the three part clutch supplied by Rimmer Bros under the part number ZUA001321, 11 months in and it's juddering like a pig.

Oh and I replaced the flywheel too, which is an LUK item, I only wish I'd fitted an LUK REPSET Pro clutch kit.....LINK, rather than the white box special :duh::getmecoat:

Brian :D

trikey 30th November 2019 19:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian (Post 2778968)
Do not buy the three part clutch supplied by Rimmer Bros under the part number ZUA001321, 11 months in and it's juddering like a pig.

Oh and I replaced the flywheel too, which is an LUK item, I only wish I'd fitted an LUK REPSET Pro clutch kit.....LINK, rather than the white box special :duh::getmecoat:

Brian :D

Was it fitted properly :getmecoat:

marinabrian 30th November 2019 19:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey (Post 2778969)
Was it fitted properly :getmecoat:

Nah, it was clashed in by a right old bodger in a couple of hours on the driveway New Years eve 2018 :getmecoat:

Brian :D

trikey 30th November 2019 19:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian (Post 2778970)
Nah, it was clashed in by a right old bodger in a couple of hours on the driveway New Years eve 2018 :getmecoat:

Brian :D

All joking aside, that's not good for Rimmer's :duh:

euro44 30th November 2019 22:13

thanks for the replies, I should have done some investigation before posting, I guess I panicked having lost all gears on a very busy roundabout. I will remove the dash panels covering the pedals and report back, cheers chris.

trikey 30th November 2019 22:15

If the master cylinder looks dry, disconnect the coupling on top of the gearbox then press the clutch, if it is solid, the chances are the slave has failed.

Comfortably Numb 1st December 2019 00:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey (Post 2779014)
If the master cylinder looks dry, disconnect the coupling on top of the gearbox then press the clutch, if it is solid, the chances are the slave has failed.

By "dry", I am assuming you mean "hasn't been leaking". If the master has lost a lot of fluid, (so dry in a different way) I wouldn't expect it to go solid when the self-closing valve in the coupling is disconnected from the slave.

macafee2 1st December 2019 08:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Comfortably Numb (Post 2779035)
By "dry", I am assuming you mean "hasn't been leaking". If the master has lost a lot of fluid, (so dry in a different way) I wouldn't expect it to go solid when the self-closing valve in the coupling is disconnected from the slave.

I would interpret dry as no fluid in it and so somewhere there is a leak.
once the coupling is disconnected mid way along the hydraulic line in the engine bay the pedal does go solid as there is nowhere for it to push the fluid.
If there is fluid in the master and the coupling is disconnected and the pedal goes solid and then slowly goes to the floor, then I think fluid is by passing a seal and staying in the master cylinder. I have had this problem recently.

macafee2


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