Fitting a new maf sensor & PCV filter
 

I have been having issues with my 2.0 diesel tourer for about 10 months now, if i really think back not extra special MPG always feeling sluggish but the power was there if i booted it just that nice smoothness missing in the low revs and speeds, oh and the heart pulsating feeling of pulling out from junctions and roundabouts it is only over the last 5-7 weeks that the car as been surging, ie losing power as though it was going to stop cut out only to kick forward if i pressed the gas pedal a bit more cruising at say 30/50/70 you would still get the stopping dead feeling then surge forward.

Asked on the forums and read up a bit about this and was given the answer its the MAF so at our recent Nano meet on the 11th March i was given the chance to get her on a T4 session with Duncan :hail: to check out any faults and sure enough the MAF was reading wrong unplugged it at the Nano took her for a drive seemed to pick up and feel better, so new MAF needed purchased one from Eurocarparts (not cheap but a must have )below is how i fitted the MAF and the PCV filter at the same time enjoy Arctic.

Fig one remove the engine cover three bolts 8mm
https://i.imgur.com/SLjjfVNl.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/CqaVUXRl.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/I1dQIzEl.jpg3

Fig Four once bolts out remove the engine cover and put in a safe place for re-fitting at end of the job
https://i.imgur.com/5l3GVsEl.jpg4

Fig four & five remove the two screws holding the air intake pipe
https://i.imgur.com/F4KqwXRl.jpg4

https://i.imgur.com/IDWzwZXl.jpg5

Fig six & seven pull air intake pipe from the air filter cover this is easy as the concertina ridges will allow this
https://i.imgur.com/13rgoCSl.jpg6

https://i.imgur.com/EcLhIiXl.jpg7

Fig eight/nine/ten/eleven shows the Allen bolts which secures the air filter cover, which needs to be removed to change the MAF and also the PCV filter there are five.

Rear right corner looking at it from front of engine
https://i.imgur.com/3DNdisUl.jpg8

Rear left and back by the MAF 5ml Allen
https://i.imgur.com/3DNdisUl.jpg9

https://i.imgur.com/ZzpQhbOl.jpg10

Three at the front of the cover
https://i.imgur.com/NyxZK0vl.jpg11

These bolts are captive so you cannot lose them.


Fig Twelve remove oil filler cap
https://i.imgur.com/awRFUUCl.jpg12

Fig Thirteen you can now remove the air filter cover and put it safe with the engine cover removed earlier.
https://i.imgur.com/PDgtv31l.jpg13

Fig Fourteen you now have access to the air filter PCV filter housing and the MAF sensor, refit the oil filler cap to stop anything falling into the engine.
https://i.imgur.com/Cduv3Tfl.jpg14

Fig Fifteen the MAF sensor plug and casing
https://i.imgur.com/o81uQ8zl.jpg15

Fig Sixteen/seventeen unplug the MAF sensor wire press in both sides and pull up.
https://i.imgur.com/J8MBDA9l.jpg16

https://i.imgur.com/4rNS9iQl.jpg17


Fig Eighteen/nineteen release the two retaining clips, and disconnect from the turbocharger duct which hold it to the maf housing
https://i.imgur.com/dfcgvARl.jpg18

https://i.imgur.com/xMF5tN8l.jpg19

Fig Twenty remove the air filter from its housing, as this is attached to the MAF
https://i.imgur.com/uzxogIhl.jpg20


Fig twenty one pull the turbocharger duct from the MAF housing, you may not have to remove the duct from turbo charger below, i did just to show how it fits, all push fix, thread it out carefully if you do remove it.
https://i.imgur.com/yB1N5bol.jpg21


fig Twenty two/three/four/five slacken and remove the two Torx screws top right and bottom left
top right Torx
https://i.imgur.com/GT3yNK9l.jpg22

use long nose pliers to grip the torx screws as it nears the end coming out so not to lose it in engine below.
https://i.imgur.com/GT3yNK9l.jpg23

Bottom left torx
https://i.imgur.com/UqaGv4dl.jpg24

Fig twenty five with torx screws removed you can now also remove the MAF with its housing.
https://i.imgur.com/UqaGv4dl.jpg25

Fig twenty six mine looks like it's had the sensor removed before. either to clean it or be changed but not the housing, and not in my ownership.
https://i.imgur.com/OxSTpyOl.jpg26

Fig twenty seven/eight old and new side by side
https://i.imgur.com/yKtdV2Ul.jpg27

https://i.imgur.com/YdWIIP9l.jpg28



Fig Twenty nine new maf sensor fitted
https://i.imgur.com/XJydYitl.jpg29


Fig Thirty refit the turbocharger duct and hose easiest way to do this is remove the little hose from the duct.
https://i.imgur.com/tbQN6YDl.jpg30


Fig Thirty one hose removed from the duct so it can be lowered down and on to the turbo charger it is a push fixing, remember you don't have to remove the duct to fir a new MAF, it can just be pulled back enough to fit it.
https://i.imgur.com/q1efA5El.jpg31

Fig Thirty two shows the two fixing points for the duct hose
https://i.imgur.com/ixGborZl.jpg32

Fig Thirty three/four hose re-fitted also push fix
https://i.imgur.com/xxFGVbOl.jpg33

https://i.imgur.com/YCDfZjql.jpg34

Fig Thirty five plug the wiring back onto the MAF sensor.
https://i.imgur.com/NTHUGlHl.jpg35

The MAF sensor is now fitted and refitting of the air filter and engine cover etc is the reverse of removal unless like me you are going to change the PCV filter at the same time this is shown in the next post section. Arctic.

PCV fitting with out removing the fuel return hoses follow on link from above
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...71&postcount=7

Photos reinstated, 21/11/23

When you are done, let me know and I'll do the usual :D:bowdown:

BTW - what is the "card" on your thumb for? :shrug:;)

That is a plaster after cutting though my thumb and nail earlier in the day modifying some compensators i wrote on it card to remind me when i went over the shop to get a sympathy card for the lady next door she just lost her husband :sad: he was nice old gent 85 been in hospital 3 months

Sorry to read that, it's a bad day when we lose friends :(

Even worse when i nearly cut my thumb off ;) life still goes on we are all heading into the light or dark which ever way you look at it so try and make the most of life if you can get along and help each other if not keep your self to your self is my motto PCV post to come :D Arctic.

Ah! But what is a thumb compared to a life? ;) However I know what you mean,..... and your sterling work is much appreciated :}:bowdown::D

PCV filter fitting
 

Carrying on from the fitting of the maf sensor i decided to change the PCV filter at the same time even though i only changed it 8-10months ago at only £8.99 its worth it in my eyes anyway so here goes.

To replace the PCV with out removing the fuel line and clips first unscrew the three retaining screws then disconnect the injector wiring plugs and move the harness to one side follow the pics below.

Fig one remove the three screws 5mm socket worked for me on the star screws.
https://i.imgur.com/VqUV4wal.jpg1

Fig two screws removed from there fixings
https://i.imgur.com/p2ou9F1l.jpg2

Fig three unplug the injector wiring harness four just squeeze on the tang, you could use a small screw driver to open the tang and pull off.
https://i.imgur.com/fG1HgjRl.jpg3

Fig four set harness to one side out of the way
https://i.imgur.com/AvQJu0Rl.jpg4

Fig five/six unscrew the four Allen screws so you can remove the PCV filter valve housing
https://i.imgur.com/WCVqcCRl.jpg5

https://i.imgur.com/0qPfvMzl.jpg6

Fig seven remove the filter housing by lifting and twisting toward you or the front of the car carefully no rush it should come away nicely without having to unclip any fuel return hoses thus not braking those little T junctions
https://i.imgur.com/6NRiDgel.jpg7

Fig eight clean and check the rubber gaskets seals or change for new ones.
https://i.imgur.com/aPLlXxKl.jpg8

Fig my old and new filter, this is only 8-10months old still soft a wet not hard so in theory did not need changng but hey why not.
https://i.imgur.com/tJ6BaZNl.jpg9

Fig then clean inside the valve fit new rubber O- ring
https://i.imgur.com/CJObz7cl.jpg10

Fig eleven fit new filter push home over the O ring and pushdown the plastic holder
https://i.imgur.com/XR77BjJl.jpg11

Fig twelve refit the PCV valve by tilting reverse of removal carefully again no rush making sure not to disturb the fuel return hoses.
https://i.imgur.com/MiCTJtYl.jpg12

Fig thirteen refit the four Allen screws corners first then the rear and front
https://i.imgur.com/X8B8U5ul.jpg13

Fig fourteen replace or fit new air filter again i fitted new one even though it did not need it, why not i am fussy.
https://i.imgur.com/rKHzDb2l.jpg14

Fig fifteen refit the air filter cover starting at the right rear corner this can be fiddly once started do not screw home as the others have to be lined up.
https://i.imgur.com/JROdkk4l.jpg15

Fig sixteen fit the others there are five remember two at the back corners and three at the front top.
https://i.imgur.com/EV8mkHwl.jpg16

Fig seventeen refit air intake pipe push fit
https://i.imgur.com/nzSSOBil.jpg17

Fig eighteen refit two screws holding the air intake pipe housing
https://i.imgur.com/vcwP8Pfl.jpg18

Fig nineteen/twenty refit the engine cover three bolts tidy up your tools wash hands take the car for a nice drive check out the smoothness and new power
https://i.imgur.com/rqhG3Ndl.jpg19

https://i.imgur.com/oZ4CQ9Pl.jpg20
Jobs a good one happy motoring again :clap:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER...72.m2749.l2649

Photos re-instated 22/11/23 time 02-06

very good post and how to, arctic, but i don't know how you managed it without the long nosed pliers you left in my car:D:D:D

Hi Jonno.
Was those the really long ones if so i have a feeling they are the ones i borrowed off trebor thats the only trouble with going from one car to another :D we need to set up some sort of an assembly line at the next nano :D :bowdown: cheers for letting me know i am sure they will make there way back home in the near future Arctic.

That seems a bit extreme to me, cutting your thumb, just so you could write 'CARD' on the plaster as a reminder. Everyone else seems to manage quite well by putting an elastic band around finger as a reminder :D

hi arctic, no they're not what i would call long, just normal, but i will bring to pol on 14th:}thanks again for help on sunday

i suggest you affix a blood soaked plaster marked CARD to your tools thus avoiding confusion :p::D.

Excellent work lad .;)

Yes they will be mine but I hadn't missed them , you will be after my new socket set next I suppose !

Nice posts Steve which will help a few members with a couple of jobs that will be needed on most diesels, hope these have been copied to the how to section

Yep, excellent!

Anything to get out of the washing up :D have you noticed when you cut your hand etc you never feel it till after you relise what as happend ;) i did have nice baby soft hands until the nano last weekend :} Arctic.

Most my tools are blood marked from the compensator fitting marathon the weekend just gone :D

How to created here.

Excellent work there OB

Some good pictures there including the war wound :D

Don't know how many times I've found blood dripping from a cut whilst doing something not realising I'd caught my hand on something, although I certainly did with my latest one, dislocated finger and a pressure wound on another when I got my hand trapped when an electric front window lowered unexpectedly (blooming lazy lock and vent,* note to self unplug the window motor when working on a door catch ;))

Russ

Thanks for the "how to" Arctic. I may have to use it next week.



Following advice that a duff MAF was the likely cause of a rough and "growling" engine between about 1800 -2000 rpm I disconnected it. The yellow engine light came on aas expected but the car performed as before - no difference. Yesterday I reconnected it but the light stayed on and still no diffence to performance. Today I drove 200 miles on motorway at. My mpg at constant 70 (auto cdti) was 49 mpg.

I was told by the garage that changed the transmission fluid that the MAF was a bit down on voltage but I don't understand why there is no apparent difference when disconnected and why the engine light stays on.

Should I be looking for something else gone wrong?

Should I also change the PCV filter on a 28k miles engine (what's it for anyway)?

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

I'm hoping to sort this next week, some advice would be much appreciated.

Hi Artic, many thanks for the how to maf and pcv. Having just purchased my 2004 cdt automatic and being totally unfamiliar with the engine followed your advice. My pvc has no filter, just a plastic baffle, is this a 'new' type of pcv v/v? Still having accelleration problems - put foot down to overtake, takes 1-2 seconds before accelleration and even then very slow in comparison to my Rover 618 auto. Have cleaned maf, erg, new air filter, oil change, pcv. Any advice appreciated.

It is not a filter as such, it is just a mesh - there to stop larger bits hitting the delicate MAF sensor.

You can check the MAF operation simply by unplugging it - if it improves with it unplugged, then your MAF is faulty. Also worth doing your intercooler O rings, fitting the Viton ones.

Hi Ray.
You may have the none filter PCV housing this you would need to check if not yours maybe missing as it should be a cage with a blue filter round it as in pic below.
http://i46.tinypic.com/8yasye.jpg

Also check and change the O-rings as stated link is here
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=81279

I was having the same problem as you in the end it was misfiring and even when travelling at 70mph it would sort of hold back slow down then surge forward i changed the maf and car is great again more pick up more MPG you can get a genuine MAF from eurocarparts using the clubs 25% discount and the toytal cost was £157 but make sure its the genuine Bosch

On my box it had as below
Bosch
1 ST/Pc
0 928 400 520

434 75 0400
BIN :VC0821
0928 400 520 22/09/11 808877
Air Mass Sensor Rover 75

I picked this up from local Eurocarparts or you can purchase on line make sure you use the 25% discount if you decide you need one which i think you find you will as stated also unplug the maf and see if it drivers better, cheers Arctic

Thanks for the info Harry, still a little unsure about the PCV as mine only seems to have a tall plastic baffle arrangement in the left hand chamber definitely no mesh or filter to be seen :shrug:. Wish I had taken a photo of the stripped assembly now :(.

Did the MAF check, there was no appreciable difference.

Yes. The new BMW part is as you have described. I replaced the filter type one about 18 months ago, just after I got the car. Peace of mind, 'cos at 69,000 miles (10,00 before I bought the car) the original owner had suffered a clogged PCV and a consequent massive discharge of engine oil through the dipstick hole.

Many thanks for the info Artic and the descriptive photo detail :), apologies for delay in getting back to you but didn't realise you had responded until now, definately no filter as I said to Harry, will check this out further.
Re link thank you, this is now in my R 75 folder and is on my 'immediate' to do list, parts ordered from Rimmers.
No problems with Maf sensor,(have recently contacted Jules for Maf), managed to get the car on a diagnostic, ( Delphi 150E), engine and autobox fully clear with no fault :). All historic faults cleared, car ran a little better but not perfect.
Checked autobox fluid - black and smelly- ordered from Rimmers and changed yesterday, again a small improvement.
Buttttttt disaster !! decided to check out the throttle connector - just wiggled the top connector, couldn't get it separated so left it - when I went to start the car the accelerator wouldn't work, just engine idle at 700 rpm and engine warning light !!!!! big panic !!!! :shrug:.
To cut a long story short I eventually removed the accelerator pedal assembly stripped off the small side cover,checked the circuitry and found no continuity on 3 junctions so soldered the 6 small wires to the connector pins. Put the assembly back, started engine - no fault light so went for a test drive and guess what:D hey presto, acceleration now as smooth as silk with great thrust- like a new car !!!!! :):):):):).
The soldering is only a temporary fix and the car is now laid up until my new replacement comes next Thursday.
I really could not believe how flimsy the design was - those six wires that bridge the resistor board to the connector socket are only a spring loaded connection !!!!!!

AGAIN I REPEAT TO ALL CLUB MEMBERS- DO NOT DRIVE CAR WITH THIS TEMPORARY FIX AS THERE IS SERIOUS LIFE ENDANGERMENT !!!!!

Many thanks for the info - now I can rest easy :)- that's 1 unknown solved, better try and tackle another !!!! categorically there is no gauze or filter in the new BMW PCV v/v.

Regards Ray

Crossed Wires
 

I'm afraid Arctic's words are misleading.
Arctic's picture is of the filter that goes in the ORIGINAL type of PCV. The latest ones DO NOT have a filter, simply 2 chambers, as you have described yours.
Hope this helps.

:shrug: did i not say this
(Hi Ray.
You may have the none filter PCV housing. This you would need to check if not yours maybe missing as it should be a cage with a blue filter round it as in pic below.) emphasis on check to make sure its the filterless one and that the filter is just not missing ;)

Agreed and Apologies
 

:iagree:
Sorry Arctic & Ray. 'Twas me who misread your reply Arctic:o and 'tis also better to be safe than sorry.

There's a pic of the later type in this thread, if it's any help. BMW part number is B11.12.7.799.224

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=35107

Thanks for the link, followed the thread and yes my PCV is as shown in photo's. Confusion now cleared.
Great to get advice from you guys - Thanks again :)

Arctic - Thanks for the (almost) idiot-proof guide to changing the PCV filter :bowdown:

I say almost because this idiot managed to have a problem doing it... I got all the way to fig 7 - removing the filter housing but where you say "it should come away nicely without having to unclip any fuel return hoses" that's not how it happens for me.

I've undone the bolts and the housing starts to lift up nice and easy but the 'bulge' next to your thumb in the picture just won't slip past the fuel hose. I'm really wary about damaging them but no matter if i pull straight up, to the left, right, whatever it just doesn't want to come away so i can change the filter

any ideas anyone? :shrug:

Hi Alex
Ok dont panic you will have to lift the first three T joints because the fuel pipe must be jammed between the body and fixing point so follow the first how to i did below take care not to break the T piece you can also unplug each wire from the injector to make it even more easier for you hope this helps Arctic.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=84265

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...5&d=1342046748

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...6&d=1342046783

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...7&d=1342046810

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...8&d=1342046841

Alex you will need to tease the T joints out carefully with a thin flat screwdriver or pull up straight holding centre of the T joint not the edges you do not want to break these at any cost remove the spring clips to make it even easier, once you have replaced the filter and you are ready to fit the fuel pipe back make sure they are fully pushed home cheers Arctic ;)

[QUOTE=Arctic;1052385]Hi Alex
Ok dont panic you will have to lift the first three T joints because the fuel pipe must be jammed between the body and fixing point so follow the first how to i did below take care not to break the T piece you can also unplug each wire from the injector to make it even more easier for you hope this helps Arctic.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=84265[/QUOTE]

Genius!! thanks for that!
If the weather is fine again tomorrow (and that's a big if) I'll get back under the bonnet and finish the job

I did my PCV filter change recently following this excellent guide-

i would point out that the fuel return line part looks to be the most difficult point in the pics above,
... until that is, i found once the retaining clips were removed, you can push a button in on the 4 caps on which the 'T' pipes sit upon & pull it up- the whole cap & T pipe all lift off - makes it all much easier & no risk of breaking it!

Steve did you get a noticable difference in mpg after this job was done?
I must disconnect my maff to test it too...
Definatley seems a bit sluggish at lower revs...
I remember having a maff issue on my old citroen c5 and performance and mpg definatley improved...

Hi Kev.
Yes mpg jumped up about 6 mpg and no more heart in the mouth pulling out of junctions and round abouts, with the new clutch fitted also now she moves really swift :D

Hi Arctic , just fitted a PCV filter and rubbers thanks for your info and photos , couldn't believe the state the old filter was in , Thanks

Hi Bob
Excellent have a go at changing your O-rings if they need doing also very easy, and clean out the EGR and manifold also MAP sensor it all helps ;) Arctic

HI Arctic,
Thank you for a very helpful post, I am a new owner of a 2.0 cdt connie, I only bought the car from a nice man in Stockport at weekend a nice price, 116 bhp, I knew the car was underpowered but Was very Happy with the deal as the car has been well looked after and is a credit to the previous owner, Ive done all of the above work and i have not had the car a week yet. and re-mapped the car and she runs like a dream. I think Ive got the Rover Bug badly.

Hi Steve.
Welcome to the club it wont be long before you are doing mods etc, with the Autum and winter upon us now don't forget to check the plenums and also do the spy hole mod you may even want to make one of the meets so you can meet like minded people cheers Arctic ;)

I change the PCV on any diesel 75 or ZT I buy - always comes out really dirty and seems to make the engine feel much 'happier'.

Good guide. :cool:

Photo Editing
 

Marked for editing sometime this weekend if possible :eek:

Photos Reinstated
 

I have reinstated the photos for this early this morning 21/11/23 as requested Jeremy, have fun.

Thank you very much Arctic. I'll let you know how I get on but it will depend on the weather over here in the west of Ireland! Regards Jeremy

Just reading it all through, Arctic, and I can't help feeling that the reinstatement of the pictures for the PCV fitting would also be really useful. I might change this at the same time, you see! Jeremy

[QUOTE]]

Ok go on then :D

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...71&postcount=7

You're on for a Guinness any time you pass this way! Many thanks. Jeremy

Hi Jeremy.
Thanks i could do with a bit of iron in my body, but has i am a tea total i will have to stick too the below ;)

liver
red meat.
beans, such as red kidney beans, edamame beans and chickpeas.
nuts.
dried fruit – such as dried apricots.
fortified breakfast cereals.
soy bean flour.

I respect that! But you can get a very acceptable Guinness 0.0% these days in most pubs. And if that fails, the wife's pie, which contains exactly the ingredients you list, is to die for (or from' I can't quite remember!).😉