Clutch master cylinder - replace or not?
 

New DMF, clutch and slave cylinder already fitted. Is it worth changing the master cylinder as well or should I leave well alone? :shrug:

I've read the horror stories about accessing, removing & refitting a master. cylinder.

Someone (it might have been Trikey) suggested it should be cleaned out.

If it aint broke don't fix it!;) A flush of the fluid may be a good idea though as it has been suggested that contamination of the fluid can cause premature wear of the seals.:}

Flushed mine at around 60K, now 101K still fine.

What's the correct procedure for flushing it chaps?

RAVE isn't much help - it only covers removal & refit, it doesn't cover flushing the fluid through. (p692 / repairs section 33-4)

You can either bleed it from the master to the bleed valve or some do it in reverse using a large syringe full of fluid back to the master via the bleed valve. Either way,empty the master of old fluid using a tube on a syringe and put something under the master to catch spillage as it gets messy!

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Either way bleed it before connecting the new slave cylinder up - you don't want to contaminate the new slave.

I would certainly consider it. There has been many people have premature slave cylinder failure on fairly new clutch / slaves. Some have had repeated failures. It is thought the master cylinder breaks down inside and contaminates the new slave.

The LandRover Freelander TD4 has exactly the same concentric slave cylinder as the 75, yet the Freelander seems to have far less issues with new slave cylinders failing. Same engine, gearbox, and slave as the 75, so whats the difference? Different master cylinder on the Freelander - more like the one fitted to the Rover 45 actually. That and LandRover dealers change the master cylinder any time a new clutch slave is being fitted.

Sorry for the delay in answering chaps - I'm bogged down on something else at the moment (ABS brackets). Anyway, back to the master cylinder plot.


RE BLEEDING THE MASTER

I don't understand Mike. When you say 'bleed it from the master to the bleed valve', presumably that means all the fluid in the master is forced out at the bleed valve end - in which case why does the master still have to be emptied with a syringe?

Ok, I'll remember to bleed it before the slave is connected (assuming I manage to suss out how to bleed it).


RE REPLACING THE MASTER

That's one vote in favour of not changing it and one in favour of changing it. Now I really don't know what to do.

Ashley: what would you change it for - a metal one or a plastic one?

Rimmers have a pre-filled one with ready-made pipe for £122 (STC100146) or a kit version with an unmade pipe for £87 (STC100146T). The pre-filled one appears to be plastic and the kit one is metal.

Then DMGRS have an AP branded plastic master with no pipe for £50 (link) - and just to add to the confusion here's an Luk pre-filled plastic one with ready-made pipe for £165 (link).

There are probably more but I'm confused enough already!

There is a quick release coupling in the hydraulic pipe, which self seals to avoid having to bleed it. Part the coupling and defeat the self sealing, that will allow the fluid to run out with the master cylinder cap removed, plus diaphragm under it. Refill and pump it out with the pedal unit it runs clear.

The other way is to pump fluid up from the slave bleed nipple, with a syringe, with master cap removed. Master does not have a bleed nipple, it will just overflow (see below).

Replace the master and which one, I have no opinion on? Swapping the master for the plastic one is quite an easy task, even at the road side - so if you have doubts, carry replacement plastic master as a spare, plus the tools to do it.

Swapping is a matter of undoing two fixing nuts to the bulkhead, taking out the clevis pin fixing it to pedal, then pulling it out far enough that you can push a roll pin out, which retains the pipe. Then reassembling with replacement master and bleeding through. I could do it in 30 minutes, but when I broke down in south Wales with no spare, a break down garage charged me £460 and two days, to get me back on the road [1].

A new master arrives with the plastic pipe and quick release joint already attached at the far end. Getting that through the bulkhead into the engine compartment is a nightmare task and mostly unnecessary, if you don't mind bleeding it and in retaining the original pipe.

Bleed method is one of attaching a large medical syringe, filled with brake fluid, via a short bit of plastic pipe onto the (released) bleed nipple below the battery. Remove the master cap and diaphragm, add plenty of newspaper under it and pump fluid in, until it flows out perfectly clear of discolouration.

[1] I bought the fancy Polish billet alloy master cylinder, as a replacement for my plastic original. All of the billet alloy ones had an issue with a weak seal failing in use, so it was a complete waste of money. It had though felt better in use, until it eventually failed. This is not the same metal master as the one you mention.

I meant to empty the master first to avoid taking any contaminated fluid from the master through the system, then only fresh fluid is pushed through. A bit belt and braces really. The fluid in the master just shuffles backwards and forwards in normal use. It does not travel the whole length of the pipe (ie circulate like water in a central heating system) unless you are draining or bleeding the system.

Really? Our Hippo is on its third slave cylinder at 160k miles so pretty much on a par with my 75.

It's definitely worth flushing it through - although a sealed system, the pipe is quite 'large bore' and the sheer velocity of the fluid within will mix the fluid from the Master and Slave over time.

I had my Master fail 1 day after fitting a new clutch - but I was incredibly unlucky and out of the 50 or more we've done at the garage, I was the only one to have it so suddenly afterwards.
Typical! :D

It does only go back and forth, but it will eventually mix, plus any dirt grit an bits of worn seal will make its way down to the slave.

Ah, I see now - thanks Mike. :}

Great explanation Harry - that's exactly the info I was looking for. :}

I'll print it so I don't lose it! :D

New question
 

New question (sort of). :}

What are the chances of the master cylinder being responsible for a clutch judder?

This car has always had a judder when pulling away but I've put up with it until now. As I said earlier I'm replacing the DMF, the slave cylinder and the friction & pressure plates, so the master is the only thing left - hence the question. (I suspect the answer is 'No'. ;))

It's the factory master btw.

Judder is usually uneven wear on the plates, or fluid contamination. Worn or uneven weak springs on the pressure plate can cause judder too. I've not heard of judder due to master problems!

Correct, the answer is no.

I'm quite a light clutch user, I never slip it, have it engaged at minimum revs and sometimes get some judder. I put it down to a slight trace of oil on the clutch. My fix is to simply slip the clutch briefly to clean the contamination on the face off.

:iagree: Definitely belled it through.

I've never heard of judder being caused by a faulty master either - I just thought I'd check though in case someone has discovered it's possible.

Thanks chaps.

I'll definitely bleed it (thoroughly!) - can't have any old fluid flying about the system.

Any tips to access the master?
 

After getting side-tracked on various other bits I'm finally getting round to the master cylinder.

Who decided to put the darned thing here! :devil:

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...98ddf946c6.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...98ddf5d49f.jpg

I can just about reach the white cap with two fingers but that's about it!

Post 3 here has the following HowTo involving a long screwdriver and a Gunson Eezibleed.

Has anyone found a better way of doing it? :shrug:

You don't have to use a bleed kit you can do it the old fashioned way. I use a vacuum pump because it is easier and I have one. :}


Also got the GhettoTech easy fill and level indicator fitted currently, as the fluid level has been dropping of late. Looks like it is time to replace the slave cylinder again.



https://i.imgur.com/dSWveDO.jpg?1


https://i.imgur.com/VJ7yNxP.jpg?1

I don't have a vacuum pump Mike - have you got a link to a suitable one? (I don't fancy trying to syphon it out and getting a mouthful of fluid :D)

And a link to the GhettoTech?

Nope. Obviously only my opinion / experience

The easibleed is...well easy and singlehanded. Overall I think it's quicker and will put through more fluid in a more controlled way.

As said you could do the old fashioned way and with 2 of you. But it's a nause, tightening the nipple, plopping a few mm into the cylinder yada, yada, yada.

Frenchmike pioneered the reverse bleed. Worth a search

I use a similar one to this Simon - cheap but does the job. Also handy for testing the EGR valve on the diesels. :}

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Hand-...kAAOSwyyZdoCK2

As for the GhettoTech I just use the term for anything made up from scrap and bits laying around the garage.
Made a few bits and pieces over the years to help with working on our cars. Here's a puller for removing a seized gear linkage from a Freelander. I made the right hand G clamp over 40 years ago during my apprenticeship. :eek:


https://i.imgur.com/lC8az7h.jpg?1


A universal cam wheel holder:


https://i.imgur.com/ZNLjtao.jpg?1


And a diesel injector leakback kit:


https://i.imgur.com/opfthD0.jpg?1

Must admit, having done it a few times, I never struggled with it, but I suspect the reverse bleed is probably easier....

Reverse bleed is pumping fluid in from the slave bleed nipple end, so it comes out at the master. The top needs to be removed and the carpet well covered against the overflow of fluid. You can buy very large syringes to do it this, and adapt them with a bit of rubber pipe.

The method I have always used, the normal method - is a large syringe and a long tube down into the master to keep it topped up, as the system is bled.

I use a length of wood and a hammer, to gently tap the master cap loose and then make a large hole in the middle of the rubber condom, as it no longer serves much purpose.

Pump into MC and out through gold connector?
 

Thanks for the advice & info chaps - all duly noted. :bowdown:

I haven't got a bleed nipple because it's on the slave, which isn't connected yet* - so I can't pump fluid back up the bleed pipe to the master cylinder. (* The gearbox is still out because it was easier to replace the brake pipes without it.)

All I've got is this gold connector on the end of the MC outlet pipe:

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...aec932f118.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...aec939281a.jpg

So it seems to me the best thing to do is hook a Gunson Eezibleed up to the MC and force all the old fluid out via the gold connector.

What do you all think?


Btw, I've already got a Sealey VS820 which could be used instead of a Gunson. It doesn't need a spare tyre but it has this chunky metal attachment which will need more clearance above & around the MC to get it screwed on.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...afdb674419.jpg

I reckon it needs 6cm clearance above the MC and around 7.5cm to the side.

Hmm. :shrug:

Sorry only a quick reply...heading out.

I think frenchmike or maybe Mike Noc(?) Knocked up something from the the old slave cylinder. Cut the two pipes and joins the connector and the nipple into one.

I would like to add a real bright l led torch with a magnet so you can fasten it in different locations under the dash and put something on your left arm to cover your wrists.
A small elbow support bandage is ideal.
And a bucket near by to kick now and then if it's your first time

I thought that would be for the blood?

I was so enamoured with the clutch setup on the 75 that I bought an auto! This was after I strained both my back and my left knee whilst trying to sort the master cylinder out!:duh: They should have put it where Mr Haynes says it is!:D

Vauxhall did on the Astra G. :}

I've been using one of these in the footwell to get some light onto the master cylinder cap. It can point in just about any angle you can think of. A great bit of kit - I've used it all over the car.


You mean FrenchMike or Mike Noc (or someone else) did this:

1) Cut the old slave pipes where shown.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c30a1d44d3.jpg

2) Join them together like this (yellow rectangle represents a fitting):

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c30a23b4a5.jpg

The question is, what fitting? Those SC pipes are 6.1mm outside diameter so the brake pipe fittings I've already got won't do it (they're for 4.76mm outside diameter).



PS. I think post 58 here might be FrenchMike's original post on the reverse bleed method. I can't find a post where he's cannibalised the old slave to make a bleed nipple-to-gold connector pipe.

Plastic pipes
 

I just checked the pipes on the old slave and they're completely different to the ones on the new slave above. The old pipes are plastic and they've got an outside diameter of 9.4mm.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c39ead176c.jpg

Here's the part number (it's an original factory SC).

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c39eb26f9a.jpg

Dave - it was Marinabrian.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...psaxi8e0az.jpg

See post 2 here - https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=250908. Those are metal pipes on his so it doesn't help much re joining my old plastic ones.

I wonder if they'll just push together - i.e. strip the plastic pipe off this....

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c39eb26f9a.jpg

.... and push the metal nipple fitting into the plastic pipe on this (having cut it square first):

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c3f0978d52.jpg

It might work if I dunk the pipe in boiling water for five minutes.

Yep. That has got Frabtel written all over it! :bowdown:

Frabtel ??

Yes Brian labelled all his home made items as being Frabtel. Not sure of the origin though.

You can use a 6mm PCL air fitting to connect the pipes, don't try with hot water, its nylon and doesn't melt until 200 deg c ish.

You can (Gently) Hold the plastic pipes over a flame to make them soft enough to push the fittings in then allow to cool naturally, do not quench!!

Harry - if the rubber condom serves no purpose can't I just get rid of it? ... i.e. take the whole thing out instead of just making a hole in it.

This one? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-PCL.../dp/B01JAPL1CG

I've got a mini hot air gun - that might do the trick.

I just cut the hose and the internal diameter is around 3.5mm to 3.7mm - so I'm not sure a 6mm PCL fitting will go in. The pipe wall is so thick I don't think it's going to stretch much.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d86848987c.jpg

5 minutes and less than an inch away from the hot air gun (which is damned hot) had no effect whatsoever on the pipe.

For my next attempt - a gas blowgun!

A PCL fitting goes over not in! Trust me, it’s how I made mine up 😀


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Blowgun!
 

Ah, I didn't realise that - the ribs on this made me think it had to go inside, like a hose pipe connector.

Anyway, I just got the blowgun out and produced this.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...dae99c8b03.jpg

There's an inch of brake pipe inserted into each hose - it's pretty solid, i.e. I can't rotate one end against the other, so I think it'll take the pressure without leaking. The snag is the ID of the brake pipe is smaller than the plastic pipe so it'll reduce the flow.

What do you think?

Should be ok, you're only using it to bleed the master.

In theory...there shouldn't be that much pressure as the nipple will be open.

You could always put a couple of little jubilee clips on if you're that concerned.

Edit Forgot to add that it is a thing of beauty!

I have a much smaller one than that, from when LED's first appeared. It plugs into a ciggy socket, with a long flex which winds up inside it when not in use. The rear has a hinged flap, with a magnet, so it can be stuck almost anywhere in the car and can show white or a red light.

The easy way to see what you are doing around the master cylinder, is to pull out the wide strip of trim, just below the steering wheel. That, plus the panel above your toes, makes access much easier - The first time I tackled it, I had no idea that trim could be removed so easily.

Would the plastic pipe perhaps soften in boiling water? You can get back to back pneumatic pipe joiners of around that size, to push inside the bore of the pipe.

Alternatively, would a section of metal brake pipe be a tight fit, just add superglue on the brake pipe to prevent leaks.

No, boiling water didn't touch it - the plastic is far too tough for that.

I can't use pneumatic pipe joiners now - the brake pipe is already stuck/melted into the two plastic ends. To re-do it now would mean stripping/melting the plastic pipe off and inserting the two ribbed metal pieces into another section of pipe, which I think is impossible without access to proper factory equipment.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...dae99c8b03.jpg



This is the all access I've got to the MC at the moment. Is there anything else I can take off to improve it?

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...98ddf946c6.jpg

That’s as good as access gets I’m afraid!


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That's what I thought. :(

I use a syringe with a pipe attached to fill the pot up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The plan
 

Ok, just to make sure I haven't missed anything, this is the plan.

1) Get the cap off the master cylinder (one way or the other!).

2) Suck out as much old fluid as possible with a syringe.

3) Fit the cap from the Sealey VS820 or the Gunson Eezibleed to the MC.

4) Fill the Sealey or Gunson with new DOT4 fluid.

5) Connect my 'contraption' to the gold quick release connector.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...dae99c8b03.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...aec939281a.jpg

6) Pressurise the Sealey VS820 or Gunson Eezibleed (25psi if the Sealey).

7) Open the nipple on my contraption and allow 1 litre of brake fluid out.

8) Close nipple.

9) Unscrew the Sealey/Gunson cap and refit the MC's own cap.

10) Disconnect my contraption from the gold quick release connector.


QUESTIONS

A) Is step 2 necessary?

B) If it is, how much fluid does the MC itself hold?

C) Do I put a hole in the rubber condom or not?

D) Why can't I ditch the rubber condom altogether?

E) What's the best new fluid to use? (I've already got some of this)


TIA

The rubber condom allows for the level to rise and fall in the reservoir whilst keeping air out of the system - the idea being clutch fluid is hygroscopic and will pick up moisture if exposed to atmosphere over time.

If you ditch it and fill the reservoir up then the excess fluid will leak out of the bleed hole in the cap when you press the pedal down the first few times.

When I fit new clutches I always replace the condom and don't cut any holes in it, but the choice is yours. :}

Ok, thanks Mike.

Questions remaining from post 54 after Mike answered C & D.

QUESTIONS

A) Is step 2 necessary?

B) If it is, how much fluid does the MC itself hold?

E) What's the best new fluid to use? (I've already got some of this)


Post 54:

That works fine from the factory, where the MC is filled under pressure to push the condom up, but without that, the capacity of the MC is quite limited.

I appreciate the fluid is hygroscopic, but is it really a problem for the clutch system? The moisture absorbed can certainly be a problem in the braking system, where the fluid can become hot and boil, yet the braking MC is vented to air.

The whole point of the condom in the clutch MC was one of making it a quick change item, with no need to bleed, which would not leak fluid out when on the parts shelf. Once the system is tampered with, with to flush fluid, the condom serves little purpose, other than to serve as a seal around the lip of the lid.

The reservoir capacity is pretty limited with or without the condom Harry, but I agree in the great scheme of things it doesn't make much difference whether you replace it or not. As I said the choice is yours. :}

Rain has stopped play again. :mad:

PS. I still have questions A, B, E in post 57. :}

Good grief...

Step two (helps) prevent debris being flushed through, it is not essential.

It doesn't hold much at all, less than half a teacup.

Best to use 4 which is also suitable for the brakes.

Blown it
 

Well that's blown it. :mad:

I couldn't get my bleed pipe contraption to join up with the gold 'quick release'* connector because it wouldn't go over the white split sleeve (I tried everything!). * The term 'quick release' is used sarcastically.

So I thought I'd take the sleeve off temporarily to see if anything else was jamming - it wasn't and the two halves slid together without any effort.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...197a7450e6.jpg

Of course now I can't separate them again because the rib on the gold half is locked in behind the ring of tangs in the yellow half and there's no way of releasing it again.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...197a7a05a1.jpg

The only thing I can do now is buy a new master cylinder. :mad::mad::mad:

That's it - my patience has run out with this ******* money pit of a car. :devil:

Can you split the ring to fit it on and release the coupling ?


Kev

Sure can, the originals had a split in them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Assuming you mean split the white sleeve, the answer is no, because dimension B is bigger than dimension A - hence there's not enough room to get it on, let alone slide it in.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1b0cf40168.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1b27f87280.jpg

I'd like to meet the idiot that designed this god awful coupling device.

Then I'd like to meet the other idiot who decided it was a good idea to put the MC right in front of (and touching) a vent tube, which it has worn a hole in all by itself. It's pathetic!

Right now I have seen it can you cut some strips of thin plastic to push in around the coller? there is usually more than one way to skin a cat!!!:}(no animals were harmed in this idea):eek:


Kev

sorry to hear your woes Blink...give it a day or so and try again.

kev's idea doesn't seem bad... or maybe cut down that white ring slightly and Jimmy it in?

I know it's disheartening but your almost there...keep going!!

Thanks for the suggestions Kev and Dave.

I tried making a narrower/thinner sleeve from a heavy plastic document cover cut down to dimension A above. It didn't work - it wouldn't go in straight and jammed up on the skew. Cutting individual strips from the same stuff didn't work either - there are too many tangs and they all have to be pushed at the same time. Then I filed the white sleeve down so it fits dimension A. That didn't work because now it's not wide enough to reach the tangs and it if you try pushing it in further it just gets skewed again. So I've given up trying to rescue the situation and I've cut the pipe off at the bulkhead - good riddance to that dumb connector.

The MC fixings are just as bad (2 x M6x25 FS106257). They're so close the aircon pipes that you can't get a spanner onto the rear one. An 8mm socket on a ratchet is too big and a ring or open ended won't reach the rear bolt because it doesn't go round corners. That's probably why the rear bolt on mine wasn't tightened at all!

Rear bolt on the left here.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...2ced39088b.jpg

There was 30-35ml of fluid inside the MC. And five or six times as much muck as this underneath the rubber.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...2cf9660fc8.jpg

That paper towel is still soaking wet so the amount of muck is actually worse than it looks in the pic.

Rather than cut that pipe close to the MC, an easier way would have been to tap the roll pin out. It is easy to push out, once the MC is released and pulled down. The roll pin retains the union on the end of the black plastic pipe.

You see in your photo, why I suggest the rubber diaphragm takes up so much fluid capacity in the MC and why I suggest cutting it?

That wouldn't have solved the yellow/gold connector problem. - i.e. the two halves won't come apart, so the pipe is useless anyway (and so is my bleed contraption).

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...3027ad1753.jpg

£124.10 down the drain. :mad::mad::mad:


I do.

The rubber diaphragm takes up so much volume in the MC there's hardly any space left for fluid.* Plus, you have to take it out to bleed the slave otherwise it'll block the fluid flow from the pressurised Sealey/Gunson.

(* I syringed just 30-35mm out).

There's a level marker inside the MC - presumably you're supposed to check it using a finger, or maybe detach one eyeball and dangle it over the damned cylinder.

What they should have done is this (post 12 diagram) - but that would have been far too sensible so they didn't bother. :mad:

Make that £131.94. :devil:

Lol...grumpy!

Maybe they were designed to be thrown away rather than maintained...

I'd fit this one - and the quick release connector is replaceable if you have issues again:
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...9db93637&_ss=r

In defence of the designer you removed the release mechanism and then connected the coupling. There could only be one outcome.These couplings work fine when used as designed.

As mentioned you can still release it, you just need to use something thin enough to go in - if it is too wide then use a couple of narrower split rings of thin plastic. Plenty of suitable material in the recycle bin - plastic bottles etc that can be cut down.








.

The only reason I took the white sleeve off in the first place is that the two halves refused to join up with it on. So I took it off to see if something else was snagging - I accidentally slid them together a bit too far and the tangs sprang back behind the rib.


I've tried various other bits of plastic and it didn't work. Individual strips are no good because they're flat and don't follow the curve - and one single piece (a collar/sleeve) is either too thick and won't go in, or it's too thin and too weak to push all the tangs back at the same time.

What about routing the copper pipe? Where does it anchor - or does it just float about in mid air between the bulkhead grommet and the slave connector?

The pre-filled version seems a lot easier to me - it's already got fluid in and the pipe flexes easily.

The rubber diaphram will be compressed by the fluid, as delivered. The problem is that the only way the recompress it out in the field, if you change the fluid, is by pumping fluid in via the bleed nipple.

It is a good design for use on the production line, less good for the Rover dealers replacing them and an hopeless/pointless idea for us, at this stage in the car's life.

I've got it released now - but only by filing off the 2nd metal rib on the gold half, using a vice to support the yellow half, then driving the white split sleeve all the way in (evenly!) with a hammer and a screwdriver.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...6d06d4f0a6.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...6d1349e9bd.jpg

So my contraption is free again. I don't trust it not to jam up again though so I certainly won't be using it on my expensive new MC.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...6d1c6c0bbd.jpg


Btw, this arrowhead split is the cause of all the problems. It allows one side to go in slightly further than the other, which skews the whole sleeve and causes half of the tangs to remain locked. That's what jams it up and that's why there's a special tool.


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1b27f87280.jpg


I searched for a special tool to buy but couldn't find one in the UK. This one in the USA is all I found.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...6d5cebb5d1.jpg

https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/LS0024ERL

Note the flange on the unlocking sleeve (US version) - it gives the tool something solid to push/pull against. Far more sensible than the bevelled edge on the MGR version!

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...6daafc8379.jpg

Pipe support
 

If anyone fitted the metal Tazu master cylinder (STC100146T), can you tell me how you supported the length of copper pipe between the bulkhead grommet and the slave connector?

TIA.

Hi Simon.
Would this be of any use to you for releasing the connector ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Push-in-F...e/111562381168

Released mine today with a pair of long nose pliers, no problem. They are a tight fit to connect back up again mind, and need to be aligned accurately before they will lock together.

I'm not sure Steve - it might. The diameter between the ribs of the gold connector is 16.5mm. The fleabay tool says 'fits pipe from 4 to 14mm' so it would need widening.

Here's another one for 14-16mm. If you look closely you can see blade marks on the LH end so I think it's one of these cut in two! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAWzIAbutqM

Holley sell this black plastic one for $5.20 - see 050ERL.
Note the video (1min 39 sec onward) shows their black QR connector and a gold female half similar to our yellow half. What are the chances of their connector being 16.5mm diameter too.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...6d5cebb5d1.jpg

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...80f1e9b409.jpg

PS. Steve, I notice in the video they're using flexible braided pipe. I wonder if it would fit the metal Tazu master cylinder (STC100146T) instead of using the rigid copper pipe supplied.

I like the look of the Tazu but I don't like the copper pipe - I think it'll be a nightmare to get it from the master cylinder, through the bulkheads, round the sharp left turn (the rear bank of the KV6 is only 3-4 inches away), round two fat heater hoses and off at the correct angle to line up with the slave connector - all without touching anything.

Another point against the Tazu & copper pipe: is it a good idea to have a rigid pipe connecting the SC (which moves around a bit) to the MC (which doesn't move at all).

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...c30a1d44d3.jpgwhy does the pipe with the nipple have to be cut??

To fit a connector in place of the quick release connector.

1/ Cut the end off the pipe from the MC. Then cut off the end of the pipe from the SC.--The new connector then joins these two pipes together in place of the quick release jobby.

Then reverse bleed the whole system in one go.

You've lost me there Jon - where did I say the nipple had to be cut (i.e. which post)?

I wouldn't mind getting rid of the QR connector (yuk! :}) but which MC are you suggesting I use - the Tazu with copper pipe, or the standard MC with plastic pipe?

Quote.--You've lost me there Jon - where did I say the nipple had to be cut (i.e. which post)?


Could be my mistake. I read those blue dotted lines as cuts.-:shrug:

I'm not sure about which MC to use but to fit a standard coupling I guess the two pipes to be joined should have the same diameter.

However if one pipe was plastic and the other copper as long as the outside diameter was the same then the coupling would be OK on both. ( Compression coupling. )