I think it's the end of the Road Now....
 

How'do folks :}

:shrug: Not sure what i'm thinking Now.... It was all going Good - Head removal etc...


I was expecting Valve damage - I have a Brand New Cylinder Head....lol...

I even half expected the repairs i was carrying out were unnecessary - the Car has been driving well if not 100%..... lol i'm almost sorry i removed the Head :D Should have just fitted a new belt.


anywho - when i lifted the Head :eek: :duh: Damaged Piston Crown in Cylinder 4 :getmecoat:



https://s15.postimg.cc/6e1ftwo3r/IMG...904_202638.jpg

https://s15.postimg.cc/fyl2glq8n/IMG...904_202624.jpg




I think that will be the End :o


I just bought New wheels too :duh: and I've a Load of Brand New Parts :getmecoat:


Not where I expected to be tonight :D Was planning on changing the Camshafts etc.. over to my new Cylinder Head.


I've Gained some Experience at least - I was Having Fun Until I lifted the Head :shrug: it Could be worse :}


Paul.

You have got to be kidding :eek:, it's a bit blurry but is there a hole in the skirt of that piston Paul??

What is the condition of the liner like?

Anyway, I have a spare turbo piston and rod which I can pull out and post it up to you if you fancy the challenge of changing one of those while you have the head off ;)

Brian :cool:

Ouch!!!!!!!!!!!!

Aye there is definitely Metal Missing :eek: the Shiny bit appears to be "through to the rings" ?

the Shine on the Liner is a reflection of the damaged area from the Flash i think ;)


I haven't had a decent look at the liner - it was just getting dark I took these pics then shut shop for tonight a bit deflated :D



:D I take it there is no way of changing the Piston/Rod from above


I may take you up on the offer - How difficult can it be :shrug:


I could consider getting some ramps - not sure how i'd get the Car on the ramps.... need to be Muscle Power :D


I'll have a wee look at the procedure involved tomorrow - I need to give my mind a rest tonight :}



Paul.

Brian, will that piston not be size matched to the bore, within a few thou?

Oh come on man up your are in it to deep now surely? You only need to fork out about £250 for a set of brand new genuine pistons and liners, less if you shop around https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...piston+quality

DMGRS
Less 5% with forum discount
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...00790-rover-mg

:shrug: I'm honestly not sure what i'll do

MOT is up tomorrow - I was hoping I'd have the Car back running for Thursday maybe get an MOT done by Monday......lol.....

Technically I am on Private Land so I should be able to SORN the Car.

I am still just Parked at the end of my street tho - If I had even a driveway it would be a whole lot easier to leave things dismantled/unattended ;)




Paul.

Yes, they are graded Andrew, however there is nothing stopping Paul changing the liner that comes with the piston and rod ;)

I would approach it by dropping the sump and unbolting the big end on number 4, piston out, followed by the liner, then removing the big end shells from the original rod and fitting those to the "new" rod.

The new piston and liner can then be refitted to the block.......not ideal but considerably better than the one that is currently fitted.

If I were doing this on the bench, I would be tempted to go with a new set of pistons and liners as suggested by Gary, but in a car park outside, the less disturbed the better.

Paul will need to arrange a system to clamp the remaining liners in order that the engine can be rotated to a position where the bolts can be accessed on that particular big end bearing.

Brian :D

I've slept on it and currently i'm of the mind to get rid :o


I don't NEED a Car - and at this stage the enjoyment of tinkering has gone - I'm not comfortable working UNDER the car at the end of the street :getmecoat:


I'm not even sure how to go about getting rid - there are a couple of parts worth salvaging - Front Suspension assemblies mainly.



to add insult to injury I received a couple of parcels today :D just some Copper Washers and Socket Adaptors ......lol

today i'm switching off - and i'm going to repair my cracked Window Sills :cool:




Paul.

Could someone localish let you use their driveway? Maybe give you a tow there? Seems a shame really when you were willing to have a go. I'd let you use mine but it's a couple of hundred miles away. Good luck

If tolerance is that low - I suspect Cylinder 1 is no Good either :shrug: there is around 45 degrees of Arc where I assume it's the piston Ring(?) that is visible - between the edge of the Crown and the Liner.... :shrug: not sure if that's explained correctly :D


I have accepted that i WON'T be tackling any repairs working UNDERNEATH the Car myself - I had decided this when i first got my Car - there is too much traffic with minibuses etc.. regularly using the end of the street to turn - working alone underneath the Car even on ramps I can't be sure it's safe with other folks possible actions to consider ;)


I'd consider the possibility of getting the Car to a Mechanic for these repairs (if plausible) and dropped back so I can complete the top-end work - I know i'd be at least £100 just to move the car there and back (no MOT now, so it would need a flatbed) Parts/Labour....... :o

without getting too deep into my personal circumstance - it's a case of Unfortunate timing - it's been 6 months since the Timing Belt slipped/jumped
- having a Car that I can't use has had an affect on my Income - I was willing/able to compromise this over the Summer for the Experience rather than the Practicality - the reason it took so long to source parts was a result of this compromise :shrug: :D you've Got to laugh - I have Gained a wee bit of Experience tho :cool:



:shrug: I can't Just scrap the Car tho - at the very least i'd want someone to get the Front Suspension Assemblies - apparently you need the Car complete to Scrap it ?



:cool: my Window Sill repair at the House seems Good today tho :}



Paul.

Your best bet is to get your local rover expert to come over and fit the jug kindly offered by Brian. Honestly, getting the exhaust out of the way is the most difficult bit. Weather is still fine, days still long enough. Do it.
Ask around, surely you have someone local? Unless someone from this forum fancies taking your car on you're looking at scrap value!

How'do folks :}

at this stage i've Nothing to lose - the Car will be SORN'd and left parked where it is - it is Private Land so hopefully the Car won't be lifted while i'm away ;)


I can't bring myself to scrap the Car - and I'm not happy to Give up :D


I'm waiting to hear back from Cossiedunc r.e replacing Piston/Rod/Liner - I'll weigh up my options - I will have to double check the condition of the Other Pistons.


I've also been looking at replacement Engines as an option :shrug: Surely not too Big a Job for an Experienced Mechanic.



the only other concern would be - where did the pieces of missing Piston Crown go ? into the Turbo ? - I did have a wee bit Oil when i removed the Turbo/Intercooler and the Intercooler/Throttlebody Hoses and a wee bit in the Inlet Manifold :shrug: I'm not sure if this would be enough to cause concern.




I'm NOT throwing in the towel just yet :D




Paul.

At the worst its four pistons and liners, £250 max. Doesn't sound like you need a new block/engine, as long as liners are not sunken and mushroomed in to the block?

I'd be happy to have New Pistons/Liners fitted - I'm a wee bit concerned r.e "Proper" Installation of New Pistons to the existing Rods though :shrug:


I don't have the option to tackle your method myself - Would it be a reasonable request to ask of a Mechanic ? - i.e time and labour costs :shrug:

Could i have Confidence in this type of Install ?




Paul.

I tried getting some better Pics - Camera Battery was low so i snapped quickly ;)


:shrug: is there anything these pics show that could be an issue ? - other than the obvious Cylinder 4 Piston :D

Is it Normal/Acceptable to see the shine from the Piston Ring at the edge of the Piston Crown ? as in Cylinder 1 :shrug:

1
https://s15.postimg.cc/7vzcbomtz/DSC02449.jpg

2
https://s15.postimg.cc/y4ah15u3r/DSC02450.jpg

3
https://s15.postimg.cc/9nsb6pvxz/DSC02452.jpg

4
https://s15.postimg.cc/b2tvvhf1j/DSC02454.jpg



Paul.

1-3 are quite normal although there may be some superficial edge damage to the piston lands. A Piston is normally tapered being narrower at top. You might just get away with a secondhand matched piston and liner for 4. Although a complete set of new piston/liners is the best way to go. I hear what you are saying about changing the pistons it’s a nervy point heating up the conrods and fitting to new pistons. Send the piston/rods/liners to me and I would do it for you if an option? Pity you weren’t closer I would have you up and running in no time.

If you remove the conrods leave the big end bearing shells in place and don’t mix up. Brian mentioned earlier that you will need to clamp the block sandwich together to turn the engine over. This can be done with spacers and large washers and the through bolts, although if you place the cylinder head on each time and tighten the studs up to a lowly torque before you turn the engine to the next position to remove another rod/piston/liner assembly together.

How does the top of the liner sit relative to the block as this is key too?

Also how is liner bore wear, - any ovality or ridges at the bore tops?

I did have a quick check of the liners - they appear "Almost" Flush with the Block - they don't appear to have dropped - I'll have a better check on this with a straight edge when i locate my Feeler Gauge ;)



thanks for the help and encouragement folks :} - I'll do what I can to get the Car back on the road ;)


:shrug: I'm not sure which option will work out best - I'm not able to act on it at the minute - I'll sort something out tho :cool:



Paul.

there doesn't appear (to my inexperienced eye) to be anything suggesting damage to the Liner or any excessive wear - I'll take the time to have a better inspection tomorrow ;)



Paul.

How'do folks,

a Closer inspection to my Eyes/Fingers suggests no damage to the Bore of the Liners.

Liners seem Flush with the Block - though Not Sunken.


I've messaged Duncan (CossieDunc) and he is happy to have a look :cool:

Brian - pm sent r.e Piston/Rod/Liner ;) if these are available I'd be happy to purchase.


I also have been considering the Brand New Pistons/Liners as an option - shiny just looks better :D


just awaiting confirmation on a couple of details - then i can decide which way i'll be going :cool:


Paul.

How'do folks :}

I managed to get some more parts ordered - A new Genuine MG/Rover Sump Gasket - I only found 1 Genuine part available :shrug: that said I never kept looking after I ordered :D

and I ordered some new Exhaust/Turbo Studs/Bolts and Bolts for securing the front ARB Bushes :cool:

so obviously Not Giving Up ;)

I also managed to remove some more Hoses/Piping - Jubilee Clips in some awkward positions made it a wee bit of a challenge - and I had a first inspection of the Turbo.

r.e the Turbo - I had a wee bit of Oil on the Intake side - Would a little be acceptable/Normal ? - would it be residue from the Engine Breather Hose ?

I couldn't feel any play in the Turbo Shaft and it seemed to spin freely - So i'm hoping I don't have to change the Core ;)


the plan is to have just the Damaged Piston/Rod/Liner replaced - rather than New Pistons on Existing Rods.



Would it be Safer/Better to refit the Head while the Car is sitting and for moving the Car onto a Trailer/Flatbed ?


Paul.

I will be removing a piston and rod at the weekend for you Paul, If you are refitting the head, do so with a couple of bolts and the old gasket just to stop crud getting into places it shouldn't ;)

Brian :D

:cool: Cheers Brian :bowdown: it's appreciated more than I can express :}

I'll make sure your efforts are Not In Vain - at this stage the Car WILL be back on the Road No matter what needs done :D


I'm Going to do a bit of Cleaning to the Block - Get rid of all the Oil residue - I have New Gaskets for the Dipstick tube, Turbo Oil Return - and Oil Pump Gasket, i need an Oil seal if I replace this....probably :D and I have a New Gasket for the Oil Filter adapter plate(?) to Block I don't think there are any issues with this so probably leave this one as is :D


I have some Blue Paper Towel covering the Cylinders/top of the Block for Now - I'll refit the Head with a couple of Bolts for some piece of mind ;) it seems a bit Vulnerable sitting at the end of the street "all Opened up" :D



A couple of other things have lined up in my favour :cool: So we'll see how it Goes from here - it will be All worth it I'm sure :shrug: :}




Paul.

In my case the Damage was caused after the Timing Belt Jumped - Valve/Piston Contact is the Sure Cause here - I know the moment it happened too :eek: - the Missing Material also explains why my Spark Plug Gap was reduced way back when i was first diagnosing the slipped belt (seems a while ago now) the Car drove Well like this for at least 350 miles since and was running well until i pulled it to bits :D - ;) I was Nursing the Car and the Engine wasn't 100%.... obviously ;)


My Liners appear Flush - I don't have any suggestion it's been an issue with the previous Gasket fitted - which is a Blue Elastomer type - not sure if it may be a Payen :shrug: I can't remember what i purchased when it was replaced... - I'm happy to go with flush Liners/Elastomer Gasket ;) which IS Payen this time :}



Paul.

a Wee Update
 

How'do Folks :}

I'm still not out of the Game on this one yet ;)

my Plan of action has changed - the Car is registered with a SORN, no MOT, still Insured and Parked on Private Ground :cool: I had panicked a wee bit initially upon missing MOT renewal and thought i'd be forced to call it a day - but I think All is Well and "Above Board" legally :}


I've also decided to Have a Go Installing New Pistons/Liners Using the existing Connecting Rods :shrug: we'll see how well that Goes :D

I received a Complete set from Yenmak - after a bit of consideration, these seemed the best option for me - they(Pistons) are sold as Specific for the 1.8t only - I noticed other suppliers offer Pistons for the 1.8 K-series that suggest the Pistons are Universal across the 1.8 N/A, Turbo and VVC range :shrug: ??


https://i.postimg.cc/RJKDbM8H/IMG-20181106-201056.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/8710tgb7/IMG-20181106-201122.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/Z9QsbBzN/IMG-20181106-201144.jpg

(I have a set of Four Pistons/Rings/Pins/Liners ;))

I need to get myself some Ramps before I can think about tackling this - and I'm currently planning to purchase a cheap Hydraulic Press to aid in the removal of the Gudgeon Pins - tho it's not a Great expense I may take a few weeks to be able to afford the bits required :duh: it's that time of year

I don't think i'll need to leave the New Pins in the Freezer before Install tho - it should be Cold enough here by then :getmecoat:


I'm enjoying the Journey Again :D regardless of where it Ends it will be an Experience I can draw upon in the Future :cool:



Paul.

I'm only just starting to chalk up my experience - I do take encouragement when i see posts from yourself (among others;)) detailing your Maintenance/Repair undertakings :cool:


r.e Liners - my Existing Liners are sitting almost flush, just a fraction proud - as I have no Issues to suggest any problems with the Headgasket seal I'll be happy to fit new Liners.


the only thing r.e Cylinder Liner Shims that concerns me - might there be a reason Rimmers stock K-Series Cylinder Liner Shims but don't offer them as a part for the 1.8t :shrug: ??

just something I noticed that may be worth considering/investigating further :}

Rimmers may Not be the final word - However they seem more on the ball than some other suppliers who seem to believe the 1.8 and 1.8t use all the same spec parts


a bit like the revised torquing sequence of 20nmx180x135 degrees when fitting high Tensile 10.9 head Bolts - I've found no info or evidence to suggest that this was ever an official revision :shrug:

my Payen Bolts (10.9) state 20nmx90x90x90x90 :cool: Good enough for me.




Paul.

Paul, you can't press out the gudgeon pins, the little ends need to be heated to remove them.

Similarly to refit I machined up a puller, but Gary has an even easier technique using a rawlbolt and a tap wrench.

You need to cool the gudgeon pins in the freezer, and heat the rods, I used an old deep fat fryer for this, as it's quite easy to regulate the temperature.

It should be noted it's a one shot pony doing this, get it wrong and you will have to cut the new piston off, and start again.

I always approach this job with trepidation, and I've done a few now.

By the way I posted that piston up in a small parcel with RM second class for cheapness, looks like that's well and truly disappeared then, as it went off weeks ago :(

I still have three pistons on rods if you'd like some practice, or one simply to fit to your existing engine.

I would save the new pistons liners and cylinder head until you source a decent block.

Brian :D

How'do Brian :) - the plan I had in mind was to remove the old Pistons with a Hacksaw as suggested by Lovel (Gary?) - then Heat the "Small End" and use the Press to remove the existing Gudgeon Pin - Unless I'm missing something I can't see why this won't work :shrug:

How are the Pins removed if Not pressed out ?


I have researched to the point i'm confident of what's involved r.e installing new Pins - I'm fully aware of the potential for getting it wrong (as highlighted by Gary recently on another thread) - I'd actually rather attempt this myself than trust it to someone else - unless someone has the factory set-up ;)

at least if I make a James Hu.....Mess of it - I can only blame myself - plus it's not too big a deal if I do.

not that i'm taking the process lightly - I'll have everything crossed and all the Wood i can find touched :D

at this stage I'm continuing with the Car purely for the Experience - with the Hope that the Piston damage is the only Issue to address before buttoning it all back up :}

when I have the Pistons/Rods removed i'll consider what to do r.e some form of Jig/Guide for "attempting" to fit the New Pins - and, if my bottle crashes - Redmans who supplied the New Pistons/Liners do a fitting service as a Backup :D at least if they mess up on the install of new Pins they'll have replacement parts and be obliged to replace them ;)


Brian - I feel bad that you've gone to the effort of removing and posting Parts only for them to go undelivered :shrug: i don't think much can be done r.e chasing up RoyalMail :o If you are happy to P.M me details I'll be happy to reimburse you for Parts/Postage and your time ;) even your address if you'd prefer a Postal Order (you can still get these right?)



Paul.

How'do folks :}

a wee progress update :cool:


I managed to pick up a pair of Car ramps (Halfords new design Ramps which I like ;)) - myself and my Brother in law managed to push the Car onto the Ramps in the dark last night just to see if it was going to be possible - today we moved the Car to a better location in the Parking area and got help from a couple of the local Young Team to make it a bit easier/safer to push onto the ramps :}

I've got the old Pistons/Rods/Liners removed - the Plan Now is to send the Old Pistons/Rods along with the New Pistons Back to Redmans and take advantage of their fitting service :D it's the best option for me all things considered :}


I've Numbered, Oriented and Separately stored the old Parts for each Cylinder - I'm happy with what I encountered upon Sump, Piston/Rod/Liner removal today :} I can see no Evidence of any Issues other than the Piston Damage - Liners were sitting proud enough of the block, not much however I'm confident all was fine prior to removing the Cylinder Head r.e sealing of the Headgasket with the Elastomer Gasket that was fitted. all seems to be fine at the Big End - to my "first timer" eyes anyway :D

So, I'm Happy that the Car will be back on the Road "Relatively" Soon - I'll hopefully have the Parts posted by Courier on Monday and maybe even have them back for Next weekend :}


it was Good to gain my first experience working under my Car with Ramps - these are a Good investment for sure :}



Paul.

A wise choice on the piston fitting. How much does redmans charge for that service?

Might be worth changing the big end bearings while you are there as they are relatively cheap, unless the condition of the existing ends are good shape.

Even with a brand new block the liner protrusion is small which you can barely detect with a finger nail, and difficult to measure correctly without some more specialist equipment as most feeler gauge sets have a minimum of .0015” in them if using the straight edge method

;) Aye I trust Redmans know what they are doing - they seem to have a bit of K-Series Knowledge/Experience :D


they charge £35 for fitting 4 new Pistons to Existing Rods +£15 delivery :cool:

I'm assuming it will cost around £15 to have the parts sent to them by Courier - so £65 all in seems inexpensive enough :}

Redmans have a listing on ebay for the fitting service which makes for an easy transaction too :cool:


the Big end Bearings seemed to be Good - I'll consider the options r.e using the Existing Bearings or New - these Need to be sized for the Crank using the Crank/ConRod codes for reference do they not ?


Paul.

it's nice to know there's an option of a fitting service with this listing from Redmans - I haven't been able to find much else, certainly nothing local "Offering" to fit new Pistons to existing Rods - I'm sure if i phoned around I'd find other companies willing/able to do it - I have more Confidence and a better peace of mind knowing that Redmans Advertise their ability to carry out the Job, and the fact they have a wee bit :D of K-Series knowledge is Handy.



;) I'll be interested to see how you get on with the Liner Shims :}



Paul.

Many years ago I worked on hundreds of Rolls Royce Diesel engine rebuilds
One of the problems was head gasket failure .These engines were fitted with liners as ours are .After many attempts to find a solution we found a bomb proof solution .This consisted of the following .All liners were lapped to the cylinder block using very fine grinding paste .The liners were then blued and had to have 100% contact on the circumference and 50% on the periphery .Liner protrusion was set at between .003"-.005" on the periphery with a differential between cylinders of no more than .001" The head joint was painted with "Wellseal" and the underface of the liner was coated with Loctite 638 The head was then torqued to the required settings .I have rebuilt six K series engines applying the same principles and all never had another failure -
Just my own two penneth but it worked for me .PS Wellseal was developed by Rolls Royce to overcome HGF failure on the Merlin engines,

:} I spoke with Dave at Redmans - reassuring, when you can talk with a person and you can just tell they know what's what :cool:

Old Rods/Pistons are packaged up along with the New Pistons, the Parcel has been booked for pick-up from the house today - it's next day delivery so should be with Redmans in Fleetwood tomorrow.


I'm Excited :D

it turns out that Piston number 3 was Damaged as well - so i'm glad things have developed to replacing All 4 Pistons with New - It's forced my hand and now i've taken the step to work underneath the Car on Ramps, which is going to be of benefit in the future ;)

I look forward to the rebuild process :}




Paul.

;) Can't save them All John

that's a Nice Colour for the ZT :cool: and the 600 (620?) is Nice :drool4:


I hope one day to have a similar wealth of personal experience to draw from - although, if I can return this one 75 to the Road and keep it there as long as possible I'll be happy :}


the task i'm facing now - while still relatively sizeable - pales in comparison with what I see yourself tackle :cool: - along with many others ;) - However any K-Series content (and especially 1.8t) always catches my attention :}


it's definitely NOT "the End of the Road" - rather, there may be Light at the End of the Tunnel :}



Paul.

How'do folks :)

ConRods/Pistons arrived safely with Redmans yesterday afternoon :cool:


I had a closer Inspection of my Big End Bearings - I hadn't really had "proper" Inspection before - 1 and 2 seem to have No wear issues, 3 and 4 have a bit of scoring down the centre (top and bottom from end to end) I'll have a Good look at the Crank when I can - my Initial thinking is that it's not of any real concern i.e it's not unusual Bearing Wear and no cause for concern :shrug:

I do feel it's enough to suggest Big End Bearing Replacement would be advisable :}


I was a wee bit confused with the Availability of the correct Graded Bearings - I understood the Grading method - but I had noticed "Standard" Bearing sets being offered - (this was before I considered replacing the Big End Bearings;)).

after a bit of scouring for info - my Bearing Shells are stamped LFB10001/B - Rimmers have a different part number for yellow/blue/red Graded Bearings for the 1.8t - and have LFB10001RED and LFB10001Yellow listed for other K-series but not the 1.8 75/ZT ....lol.... I assume these would be stamped LFB10001/R and LFB10001/Y ?

I found info/opinion suggesting LFB10001/B is Blue or Standard Shell size :shrug:

Can anyone confirm if LFB10001/B is indeed the Part Number for a Blue Grade Bearing ?


Redmans offer Standard sets - I'll see what they have to say on it when I speak to them before my ConRods with New Pistons are sent back to me - I may add a set of Big End Bearings to the Purchase :}


Paul.

:cool: Just had a call from Dave at Redmans - my New Pistons have been fitted to my Rods and the Bill now Paid they'll be packaged up and sent back to me :D

after speaking with Dave i feel confident the Standard Big End Bearings they offer will be suitable - I don't have the funds available at the minute so i'll hold off and order them asap ;)

I have a couple of other bits I have to acquire - I need a complete new Exhaust Downpipe Support as the one i removed is in 3 bits (should be 2) - and some consumables before I start the rebuild - it will be worth the wait I'm sure ;)



Paul.

Rimmers seem to be the only folks with these Exhaust Brackets in stock - I also could be doing with another of those Exhaust Gaskets - I have one New in stock for the Downpipe to Cat - I'd like to have a wee look at the Exhaust side of the Turbo to check the condition of the Vanes - and hoping I'll only require a New Gasket to button it back up :}


I received a notification that my Parcel from Redmans has been dispatched and should arrive tomorrow :cool:


:shrug: a Wee bit frustrating that I never had funds available today for the New Big End Bearings :duh: £30 ......lol... I could maybe have been rebuilding the Engine this weekend............but, I agree "Patience is a Virtue" :}




Paul.

There is so little difference between the coloured shells it is not worth worrying about. If your crank has not been ground the std shells can only be better than your existing worn ones. I think MG Rover (Powertrain) were applying tolerances to to the nth degree in the hope of best refinement possible. we are talking .0001” terms. Try measuring that with your average micrometer.

:cool: Pistons/Rods received today - Great Service I have to say :}


https://i.postimg.cc/jWyFPv1j/IMG-20181123-163535.jpg


;) I am Glad I never bothered trying to tackle this myself


A wee question r.e Piston Ring Gaps - would it be likely these Yenmak Piston Rings are already sized for the correct Gap ? (Given that they come fitted to the Pistons and are matched with Yenmak Liners?)

I had a quick check of one of the top Compression Rings :shrug: looks to be Close - I'll check properly when I have my Feeler Gauges to hand ;) (I may need to go a bit deeper into the Liner too i'm only in less than 10mm here)

https://i.postimg.cc/TL4gwvc5/IMG-20181123-163909.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/dLvtySSh/IMG-20181123-163856.jpg


Paul.

Measuring the gap is not required as the rings will be made to suit, but worthwhile checking perhaps. Top compression ring is minimum .008” to maximum .014”

The bore of the liner is parallel and it should not matter where you place the ring and measure it on a new liner.

cheers Gary :}

I had a feeling the Rings would be Matched to the Liner Bore - I will check them Just for my own curiosity ;)

I'm Glad I went with the Yenmak Set - Price is Good ;), Quality seems decent and really the only other similar priced option offered Pistons as suitable for all 1.8 K-Series :shrug: from what i'm aware 1.8 Turbo and 1.8 N/A Pistons are different ?


lol....after my initial concerns over Big End Bearing coding/matching and ConRod identification - it seems to have been unwarranted :shrug: my Conrods are numbered 1-4 :D

I may be another Couple of weeks before I get the opportunity to start the rebuild - which is a bit of a pain - I'm starting a new job on Monday :cool: I'll be a couple of weeks before I have any funds available for the last couple of bits required and will be limited to when I can get time to work on the Car - I also need another body or 2 to push the Car onto the Ramps again :D we'll get there......




Paul.

I have an unopened set of standard big end bearings made by glyco if you want them I can send them down tomorrow morning.

Numbers of the conrods to the front of the engine, but the pistons have arrows anyway pointing to the timing end, and yes they are numbered 1-4.

Yes the yenmaks look every bit as quality side by side to the originals, no doubting that.

:cool: the offer is much appreciated - I'm sure Glyco are the Bearings Redmans supply too - however as I won't have time to get on with the rebuild any sooner I'm happy to wait - I'm sure you'll find Good use for them and I wouldn't want to relieve you of them unnecessarily :} the Offer alone means a lot ;) cheers.




Paul.

How'do folks :)

r.e. Big End Bearing wear - I thought, as this thread is developing I should at least add an image showing the Wear (damage?) on the Bearings I removed ;)


this is just the top Bearing Shell from Cylinder 4 (2 pics) the Bottom shows the same wear - Number 3 is much the same - Number 2 and Number 1 don't have the scoring.

https://i.postimg.cc/8sZnYr4P/IMG-20181124-125905.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/ftwB2w09/IMG-20181124-125918.jpg


if it's of any use/help/interest to anyone I can take a pic of the other Bearing Shells - I never had my Camera so just used the phone for these - Good enough Images to show the scoring on this one, not Good enough to bother taking an image of the rest of the Bearing Shells :D


to add - these Scoring marks are just able to be felt with a fingernail.


Paul.

Quite typical in the oilway you see where debris has been floating around due to infrequent oil changes causing the scuffing. however your car was running fine with these shells in place before wasn’t it? (in the crank area anyway) When you go this deep it makes sense to change, but you would probably have gotten away with it compared to this one I uncovered on a KV6 which was being thrashed to within an inch of its life daily and would have probably thrown a rod at some point if left.https://preview.ibb.co/fKUNfV/266066...3-A098-ABE.jpg

Just as a follow up to earlier post #47 the attached excel shows the tolerances of both MG Rover and Glyco and my logic behind using STD shells on the big ends.

https://i.ibb.co/7y5SKpL/Capture.jpg

:cool: I'm Glad you suggested I consider replacing these Bearings

my initial thoughts on the Bearings were that they would be Good to refit - I'm still of the mind that they'd be fine - but Now that I have a better grasp of the technicalities and I'm happy r.e Bearing Sizing - it would be a missed opportunity if I don't replace the Big End Bearings :}


Now that I've been Hands On with these Parts and had the opportunity to consider each stage separately (due to the way things have progressed) I feel confident the Bottom End is worth rebuilding :} the Car was running Good before I removed the Head (not Perfect but pretty Good) - and I'm sure the timing was still off slightly after my attempts at timing using the lower cover mark as a Guide.

Paul.

Some Progress
 

How'do folks :)

I've been working longer hours/more days for the last few weeks - so I haven't had an opportunity to make any progress with the Car..

Until today :D - I made sure I had this Saturday/Sunday off work so I could get on with it.


Weather was not Great, but Good enough ;) and I had to sort a few things before i could start so it was a bit later in the afternoon but I managed to get some help from my Brother in law and a couple of the Local Young Team to push the Car onto the Ramps again :)


Given the Circumstance and the progression of this "Saga" - I'm Happy with the progress made today - nothing has been ideal, and likely nothing done how others would do it, or How it Should be done :D but it is what it is - and from my viewpoint it is Great r.e the Experience.


Today I managed to Install - the New Liners and Conrods with their shiny New Pistons - Sump and Oil Rail cleaned up and Bolted back on - and I fitted a nice New Exhaust mounting Bracket :)

I also swapped the Cams/Tappets along with a couple of Bolts from the Old Cylinder Head to the New one - so the Head is ready to Go :)


I didn't have much time for pics - got a couple tho :)

https://i.postimg.cc/5Q1Tbjqm/IMG-20181215-142805.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/YhtBwDdw/IMG-20181215-184630.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/NyZwqgzN/IMG-20181215-184640.jpg



I'll see what Sunday brings - it snowed here a bit earlier - fingers crossed I'll get a chance to crack on ;)



Paul.

I admire your determination given the biting wind yesterday.

With all the effort you’ve put in. I hope the coolant system peripherals are in good shape? Mainly the top coolant hose and the t-piece swapped to the Chinese cast alloy version.

Jubilee clips, plastic pipe components, and easily cut turbo model hoses are not a good mix.

Not wanting to alarm you but in your photos the pistons seem awfully close to the top of the liner for a turbo model. Perhaps it’s the angle of the photo that gives that impression. Hopefully the correct rods were returned to you?

Turbo engine side view showing piston tops. https://i.ibb.co/RPQsNpJ/6-FE92-C5-E...9289529-AD.jpg

I do have an all New Coolant Hose set (standard t-piece tho), New Coolant Rail, New Stat Housing T-Piece (1 piece part) Viton O-Rings etc..

r.e Piston Height - ? I'm not sure :D - I definitely received the correct Rods with New Pistons fitted tho - I'm Happy to continue and we'll see if it's any Good or not when it's time to fire her up :)


Is it a Must to replace the Cylinder Head locating Dowels ?



Paul.

New hose assembly sounds good. The plastic t-piece when new will be fine for many miles, until the top hose starts playing up and a new hose is fitted and then someone fits an over tightened jubilee clip squashing the t-piece boss leading to leaks. I have a have dozen or so plastic t-pieces which even with a proper 360deg clamping force, combined with heat has collapsed the boss the t-piece significantly. Such a shame MGR never fitted a strengthening pipe inside the plastic boss

It sounds ok then perhaps just me. However When any of the pistons were at TDC, Are you able to measure the distance between the piston top and top of liner, or take a photo at an angle? If NASP long conrods were fitted you would have a very powerful engine, but I don’t think the engine would last too long.

Don’t try to change the dowels, unless there is significant wear on the outside of them or they were cheapies fitted from before or you’ll do more damage than good and new dowels can be a bit flimsy to say the least.

cheers Gary :)

I'm going to fit the Cylinder Head today - I'm 100% sure the ConRods are my Original parts - at least the ones I removed from the Block - I marked them enough with Sharpie before sending and they came back as sent ;)

I fitted the Old Cylinder Head as a Clamp to rotate the Crankshaft - - I felt no issues/concerns while rotating the Crankshaft with the New pistons fitted and the Old Head on - at this stage I'm Happy to continue.

I've just fitted a New Water Pump, One Piece "Thermostat Housing" T-Piece (with added Viton O-Rings) and my New Coolant Rail :)

I'm going to fit New Camshaft Oil Seals and then Bang the New Cylinder Head on in a wee bit :)



Paul.

Ok all sounds good then, sorry but the photos didn’t seem to show a gap, but as I said earlier perhaps misleading from the angle taken.

Btw, You wouldn’t have any physical contact issues with the piston hitting the cylinder head if for some reason you had NASP conrods. The only issue would’ve be that compression ratio was too high for a turbo engine and longevity may be an issue

Sorry but for clarification on above. Once the head is fitted DO NOT rotate the engine or the pistons will contact the valves if the camshafts are already fitted.

First Fit the belts, then rotate carefully at least two two revolutions, check timing marks and tensioner alignment groove.

Cylinder Head fitted :) and a couple of other bits - I still have a few more bits to do before I'll be ready to fire her up - I'm having Fun tho - even with a splitting Headache today/tonight I've enjoyed finally getting some parts fitted :D rather than just collecting/storing them.

I should be able to do a few wee bits after work through the week - but really I'm hoping to finish off next weekend :)


and Hope it's All Good :D


a couple of Pics tonight.

https://i.postimg.cc/56WWHWDF/IMG-20181216-161944.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/TpnGQ3n9/IMG-20181216-181708.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/ZvdmGT2J/IMG-20181216-212933.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/k65XpP75/IMG-20181216-213609.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/z3VGwNdt/IMG-20181216-184539.jpg



Paul.

I never bothered trying to get much done after work tonight - it's just a wee bit dark to be getting organised properly to get started.

I done a wee bit tho ;)

I wrapped my Exhaust Manifold with Heat Wrap again - I'm not too Happy with the result - it actually seemed more difficult with the Manifold removed Vs when I done it with the Manifold fitted ???....lol.... maybe I just expected a better result this time ?

I may order some narrower 25mm Wrap to redo it - this Wrap I have is 50mm.



https://i.postimg.cc/G4J9VwnV/IMG-20181217-214541.jpg



Paul.

Looking good Paul :bowdown:

Brian :D

cheers Brian :) Hopefully it will Run as Good as it Looks with all the nice New shiny bits :D


and the End will justify the Means - if the Piston you posted had arrived, I'd have fitted it unaware that Piston 3 was damaged too - looking back at my Compression Test results - I'm sure 1 and 2 where around 190psi and cylinders 3 and 4 both lower around 160psi which should have given me some indication all was not well with cylinder 3 too. so all things considered at this stage I'm glad to have fitted New Pistons.


I've been looking at 25mm wide Exhaust wrap - I quite like the Black Wrap for a more subtle look :)



Paul.

coming along
 

How'do folks :)

I have a few days off work so I should be able to get the Car all finished and (fingers crossed) Running before the Year is out :D

I got all buttoned up today - Exhaust Manifold/Turbo all fitted back up proper, Inlet Manifold Upper fitted, New Coolant Hoses fitted - some New gaskets, Bolts etc fitted - along with some cleaning :)

I'll double check a few bits tomorrow before taking the Car off the Ramps - then it will be on to the Timing Belt/Tensioner and pretty much done - Fluids/Filter, New Battery, a couple of Sensors to connect etc.. :)


Some pics tonight.

https://i.postimg.cc/3056XF8D/IMG-20181224-002248.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/JGTfgJKS/IMG-20181224-002231.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/w7949v7H/IMG-20181224-002355.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/ft45pW6G/IMG-20181224-002456.jpg




Paul.

You going to fit the timing belt guard are you ?

:D Oh Aye - Cam Sprockets are only on Finger tight ;)


It's a Cold one today and I need to hit the shops - I'll see how I get on, hopefully I'll make time today to get the Timing Belt (including Covers) fitted later :)



Paul.

Just read this thread start to end, excellent read, merry Xmas and good luck.

Sent from my Redmi 4A using Tapatalk

How'do folks :)

I managed to get a wee bit done today :)

Timing Belt/Tensioner fitted - (including Timing Belt Covers)

Rotated Many times by Hand :D and all lining up

Crank Pulley Bolt torqued up and Alternator/Power Steering Belts fitted...

https://i.postimg.cc/4ncDw4tr/IMG-20181226-151214.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/Ffq6gwKr/IMG-20181226-151252.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/XBgxhPny/IMG-20181226-153817.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/jDYdvkLh/IMG-20181226-154117.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/XXvZyhCG/IMG-20181226-154107.jpg


I'm having a wee Coffee break then I'll go back out and finish off what I need to and hopefully see if she'll fire up tonight :)


Paul.

She Lives
 

I don't want to jump the gun - I'll need to get a proper look and check everything in the daylight - and i'll need to check/top up the Coolant once the Engine's cool....

that Said :D She Lives !

I put a New Battery in and cranked her over a bit before fitting the Plugs and the Fuel Pump Relay.

Fired up on the first turn of the Key without any hesitation or issues - a bit Tappety to start but settled a bit and seemed to run Great - I ran the Engine up to temp while topping up the Coolant - then ran her up and down the street a few times - all seems well...... I'll update tomorrow


looking for the first MOT slot i can find now :D



Paul.

Congratulations!

Cheers Guys :)

I'm hoping if there were any issues or anything I overlooked it would have been obvious tonight ;)

It was nice to fire her up and drive her again - even if only up and down the street.


some pics tonight.

https://i.postimg.cc/nX9sf6vD/DSC03058.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/SjZj2yd9/DSC03082.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/yWN8zMK8/DSC03086.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/B8g4rgwF/DSC03087.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/sQHyX2zD/DSC03092.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/gXjFfPh9/DSC03094.jpg

(the lights on the dash are the abs/pad wear sensors not connected yet, and passenger seat airbag ;) )



looking forward to checking how everything is tomorrow - fingers crossed, it's looking Good tonight tho :)



Paul.

Great news, good to read a good news story in the morning. Hope in the the light all the little bits and bobs are fine and fly through MOT.

Sent from my Redmi 4A using Tapatalk

:) MOT booked for 3pm tomorrow

I've a few wee bits to get done so the Car will be ready - passenger seat airbag connections, slight power steering leak to fix (pretty sure it just needs a jubilee clip on the lower hose at the reservoir bottle) and top fluid up, a bit of a clear out/wash - and New(to me) wheels/tyres to fit :)


Paul.

Great job, Paul. 99% of folks would have walked away many months ago!

Cheers,
Glenn

cheers Glen :)

Once i had decided to continue with the Car I seen it as an Opportunity - I'd always have put off the Idea of this much work being tackled at the end of the street - Given my circumstance and the way this wee journey has evolved/unfolded I had nothing to lose and All to Gain :)

it's testament to this Club/Forum and all the help/encouragement/advice etc.. and to these Cars :D they make you want to put in the effort - I fitted a New battery and when connected up the Alarm started beeping (i've never heard it before) it wasn't really "Alarming" sounding, more like the sound of an Excited Car Keen to get going :D


see what tomorrow brings.....


Paul.

Howdo folks :)

I had a few wee things to sort out this morning (friday) for MOT wiper blades, airbag connections, wheels/tyres... I managed to get all i needed done - and the New wheels while Not perfect look Great on the Car - same style 5 spokes (my favourite for my Car ;) )

She sailed through the MOT - advisories for Brake line surface corrosion and or Grease..

the Car got a lot of compliments from the Guys in the workshop - and the Manager said if I'm looking for work he'd give me a job :D even if not a serious offer I'll take it as a compliment :)

Mot passed I took her for a long awaited wash - then a wee run 150 miles or so via Kelso to Musselburgh for Fish and Chips then Home - Car was running Great :)


cheers Folks :) hope everyone is well and doing Good



some pics today

https://i.postimg.cc/2VBcw3jq/IMG-20181228-145233.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/bDBg0fKH/IMG-20181228-151757.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/ftGXTzGF/IMG-20181228-191532.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/w7dJCBcR/IMG-20181228-192137.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/DSpSwfsg/IMG-20181228-203832.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/RNMh1JLd/IMG-20181228-203842.jpg




Paul.

What a brilliant and inspiring thread!!

A great read.

Great work. :xmas-smiley-008:

Brilliant, do you remember this?Excellent, well done.

at this point my initial posts seem a bit dramatic :D

without this thread and the feedback from folks here i really doubt i'd be back on the road - the help/advice/encouragement and Inspiration I receive here is priceless :)



I went for a wee drive again today - the Car has done around 300 miles since repairs - She drives Great. better than ever, smooth, quiet and pulls like a train with that nice linear power delivery - Boost is Good, no power spikes or boost control issues (the Vac hose from the ECBS to the Wastegate was blocked when I checked before refitting) - I'm only just getting a chance to test the New front Suspension I fitted earlier in the year too (the full saga relating to this thread dates back to March) the Suspension feels Great and along with the Engine it's like a New Car......almost ;)


I forgot just how Comfortable the 75 can be - Not just the seats, it's the whole Interior - it is a Nice car to drive and be in - so relaxing, even when I'm still a wee bit anxious and "test driving" after my repairs.


I still have a few other wee bits to get done - I have a new Handbrake Backplate assembly for the passenger side to go on (drivers side was done just prior to this issue arising) and New rear Discs - I also picked up New rear pads(Eicher Rear pads/discs) and Brembo front Discs/Pads today :)

https://i.postimg.cc/dh2XsrFG/IMG-20181230-000914.jpg



Paul.

Excellent outcome, well done for percivering

Mr
 

Hi can anybody help yesterday my mg zt cdti just started to get harder to change gear only if i switch off the engine it will go into gear with no resistance i think this is the end of the road for the old girl.