Stuck bonnet
 

My ZT bonnet failed to open earlier, despite the cable tie mod and regular lubes. Looking at the how to’s this seems to be provided by PM for security reasons. Could someone please send me the instructions, or a link to an open solution. No tearing hurry as I won’t have time to look at the repair until the weekend. Thanks.

Hatch behind o/s light in the wheel arch, remove, stick your hand up, you'll neet to cut your cable tie securing the box, pull off the box, grab the 2 cables and pull with grips. Of course, no use if the cables have snapped. I never said this right 😁

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Thanks. Sounds fiddly through that little hatch!

Don't be afraid! It happened twice on my 75 in the early months.
And I've got paws! First have a close look then introduce your hand and act from memory...
Now I'm lubricating every hook, lock and the like with graphite.
I cross all the fingers...

As you’re a subscribed user, the instructions are available in the ‘subscribed user’ forum. Fourth from the top.

Thanks, found guide. This thread can be delayed by mods if appropriate…

Lets hope that the cables are intact. Rust and dirt at the slam panel latches usually lead to the cables at that end breaking. Fingers crossed ...;)

Managed to get it open and it works ok now. Cables look in g.c. and it's all lubed up. The plastic splitter box isn't very robust, but refitted with ties replaced on input cable and securing it to the wing (is there an improved design?). Worryingly the bonnet lever pulls almost to the top before triggering the bonnet catch - is this usual? It was like that before, but I'm a bit more dubious about it now!

I can't see any adjustment (or easy way of creating some) so I may try a new cable idc and hope the inner cable is shorter relative to the sleeve length so triggers sooner.

Thanks for the advice.

As xsport says Mike, this is the most likely cause of the trouble, not the splitter box. The release mechanism particularly becomes compacted with a mixture of dirt granules, rainwater and the original grease. What I removed from mine resembled ground black olive paste.

For a long-lasting repair, remove the bonnet locking platform and take off the latch for cleaning using a solution of Gunk (or equivalent) and an old toothbrush. Rinse and allow to dry then re-lubricate sparingly. That's what I did years ago and it worked a treat! :D

Simon

Rimmers do still stock new splitter boxes.

This seems to be the theme of March - I talked someone through getting into their bonnet this morning!

Once you're in, I'd inspect everything thoroughly and replace / clean up as needed.
On our 75 both latches were heavily corroded and one of the cables looked a little worse for wear - in the end we swapped the lot for peace of mind.

Cable set: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...0140-fse000150

Latches: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...atch-fps100442

Full set of both of the above with a hefty discount: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/75-...0150-fps100442

The release was noticeably easier once everything was swapped, and it's been fine since. :)

Thanks, saw those, good price. I’ve just received some rear light seals from you (a bit of damp in the boot). I'll line the bonnet job up for the future, if the late bonnet release continues to worry me!

Fairly recently I had my bonnet stuck. To cut a long story short, T did get it open by pulling the cables from the under-wing hatch.
Although I initially only oiled the latches thoroughly, which eased them, I later had the slam panel off. The latches were removed, and stripped as far as I could, followed by thorough cleaning. I used copper grease to lubricate them. All the cables were also taken off and oil dribbled through them. When re-assembled, the release mechanism was transformed; it is now very light to the touch, and operates at the early part of the pull rather than later.

Stiff Lever
 

Also do not over-tighten the bolts that secure the latch mechanisms in place on the front cross car panel. You can experiment with the tightness by easing off the pair and feeling the difference in the bonnet release lever in the cabin. If concerned about the latch working loose over time, apply some non-setting thread lock to each bolt thread, keeping the other one in place, before setting up the release tension.

I couldn't do it through the hatch. I removed the inner wheel arch and the screenwash bottle which gave much better access.