The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - FBH - How to install, test and service

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- - FBH - How to install, test and service (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=100297)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ose1665 (Post 893482)

OK I have another question on this bit...
Quote
'That gets you access to remove the burner unit and see inside the heat exchanger. Follow the two thick wires (mentioned earlier), to the glowpin, unclip the wires, unclip the glowpin - held by a spring P clip and very carefully remove it from the burner chamber. Test it by connecting its two terminals across 12v, where upon its square section end should in a few seconds become close to white hot. It is not designed to run continuously on 12v, so limit this test to a few seconds - just long enough to satisfy yourself that it glows. If it doesn't glow, then it has failed and no one has yet been able find a source for a replacement, but they are very expensive - maybe £60, even if you can manage to source one. Webasto only seem to sell them complete with the combustion chamber.'

If I understood correctly the glowpin uses quite a few amps so do you need to use a car battery to do the above test or would a battery charger 3-4amp capacity do the job?
Is the polarity of the test connection important? I would guess not but best to ask, as they are expensive and hard to get a replacment.

comments/advise would be appreciated, thanks:frightened:

The battery charger would not be adequate, you are looking at 10 to 20 amps. Polarity is not important, but the test does need to be kept brief because under normal operation it runs at an average of 8 to 10v , rather than 12v.

I was in contact with Webasto since the New Year and they have confirmed that they will not sell the glowpin as a separate item - you have to buy the complete burner and glowpin.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT (Post 893506)

:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:Thanks again.

Hi guys, I have FBH 66232c and not signal to fuel dosing pump. I test it by lamp (in the end connector in pump and in pin 6) and connect pin 1 to battery, but nothing. The air fun starts about 60 seconds and stop after that. I think the problem is in PCB.... any ideas?
Thanks in advanced.

Hello.
I have the similar problem.. Could You help me, please? :)
I have BMW webasto PCB failure, WTT shows one error - flame sensor error. Could not read flame :/ Glow plug is ok. Where I need to check the PCB?
Are any ideas? Thanks a lot.
P.S sorry for my english..:mad:

Quote:

Originally Posted by arwolc (Post 1195903)

Frenchmike is the man to talk to.

model 66232c pin 3

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT (Post 877458)

On my 98570B later model, that number is on the label which faces you (second line up from the bottom on the left) and on a second label on the end panel which faces out to the wing.

I can confirm shorting pin 3 to ground works on my model, but obviously cannot confirm the method for the earlier one, but it seems safe to assume it is correct - so I will include it.

Hi harry,

having just bought from a breakers yard and fitted a model 66232c, I can confirm that the unit can be forced into operation by connecting pin 3 to a 12volt supply.

Hope this clears up any confusion.

During the process of retro-fitting my FBH, I refered to your excellent article on the subject numerous times. Thank you for such a great write-up.

Cheers, Pete.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Union Wheels (Post 1255680)

Hi harry,
During the process if retro-fitting my FBH, I refered to your excelent article on the subject numerous times. Thank you for such a great write-up.

Cheers, Pete.

Thanks Pete glad it proved to be useful.

if like me you are about to fit a heater and pump going back to the OP I have attached a picture of the bracket and fuel line I found under my car. The electrical plug with the two green bits in, this is the electrical plug that was under the rear seat cushion that I have pushed down in front of the fuel tank for fitting to the pump.

macafee2

Exactly as mine was, prior to fitting. The 'pipe' clipped in the two brackets, is not pipe, its just a solid length of plastic rod to blank and fix the pipes. The pump replaces the plastic rod.

If fitting a second hand pump assuming the rubber mounts come with it, the metal bracket which the pump rubbers hang from will have long since rusted away. A replacement is not hard to fabricate.

There are two steel brackets, the part shown in Macafee2's photo, then the a second one which rusts away.

Harry, your how to is excellent and it is what I'm following. Hope you don't mind me adding the picture, thought it would help others by showing what should be there.

macafee2