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kaiser 21st July 2015 11:44

Just an up-date. Car has done 2000 km and is water tight again. See how long this lasts!
Apart from that, I have lost the tensioner for the alternator. The bolt has broken and the last bit was still stuck in the block. I managed to retrieve the broken tensioner from the road, where I two days prior heard a rattle and saw something tumbling down the road. I thougth I has struck a piece of rubber, but later realized what must have happened. unbelievable, but two days later I found it within half an hour, in this condition.

http://i58.tinypic.com/1zzjfcm.jpg

I made a new wheel from a piece of aluminium I had lying in the scrap box, which made it look like this:

http://i57.tinypic.com/k013s7.jpg

And luckily, after the second nut welded to the stump, the part sitting in the engine came out, phew! It required the engine to be dropped and was difficult to weld on, but in the end, success.

And for anyone wondering how the antifreeze behaves, like this. Neat solution very aggressive, I wonder why??
50/50 OK, and pure water little worse.

I have written to the manufacturer, but not yet received any reply of substance!

http://i59.tinypic.com/4kdvdz.jpg

DMGRS 21st July 2015 11:59

Blimey, that tensioner had certainly had it!

kaiser 21st July 2015 12:07

Arrh but a scratch, it'll polish out, just a flesh wound!

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...02f946b48d.jpg

bl52krz 26th July 2015 21:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaiser (Post 1985877)
This is a repeat from another thread:

I hate to admit it, but my 1.8T is going again. It has just done 15000km since the last head gasket repair, and I did it myself, as well as it can be done.

The car has gradually started to use water, and now it is pressurising the coolant system and a pipe has blown.
Three of the spark plugs show signs of water, and there is no doubt in my mind, the gasket is going. No other symptoms and no oil/water mix. Just high pressure and water in the cylinder(s) and general water loss.

I recently tried to re-torque the engine bolts, to see if I could maybe save the day, and first slackened them of in sequence. I made a note of the torque required to "break" each bolt, and that varied from 25 to 40 Nm. It had no effect, at least not positive.

And a similar story. A couple of years ago, I had head gasket failure on a 7MGE Toyota Cressida engine. I bought new gaskets and had the head skimmed and valves sorted. Fitted the head and read up about the torque. From memory it stated that the recommended torque was 70Nm, but there is general agreement that that figure is too low, so I gave it 90Nm.
All was well for about 5000km, and it went again. I took the head in to be skimmed again, and spoke to the owner of the business, he asked if I had re-torqued the head, and I said no, but I had given it extra torque. He went into the computer and came back and said the head had to be re-torqued after the first 800km. I fitted the head, torqued to 90 again and drove about 1000km. Then I re torqued all bolts again, and the most telling aspect is, that when "breaking" the bolts, they all were about 40Nm, that is less than half the original torque. So a settling of the gasket, and all sorts of heat and cooling effects, had brought the permanent torque to less than half of the original torque.
I have now driven that engine a great distance and all is well.

I am just quietly wondering if we are under torquing these k-4 engines? and further, if we would maybe not gain from re-torquing the head after say 1000km?

I know these are stretch bolts and all that jazz, but 3 spark plugs showing signs of water sounds like either a general lack of torque, or sunken liners on three cylinders.

And, I sealed the liners with Loc-Tite when installing them, so time will tell.

Time to take the head off.

The head has now come off, and it is clear that water has come past the fir rings especially on the two middle cylinders, on the pictures towards the bottom of the screen.

Any idea why?

I have written to Victor Reinz for their opinion, as I would really like to avoid a repeat!.All liners are proud, the head was skimmed and flat, new bolts, correct torque and procedure. No subsequent overheat, no mixing water and oil, only water in the cylinders and pressure in the cooling system.

Hi Kaiser. Every engine I have ever changed the head gasket on, and every car I have ever bought, I have always re-torqued the head bolts. I know the bolts are special"stretch" bolts in the kv6 and 1.8, but if I ever bought one, that is one of the first things I would do. Right or wrong.


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