No undertray :D:getmecoat:

Easy job then. I use a long flat thin bar with the last 10mm bent at 90 degrees to hook the belt round the various pulleys.

To renew the belts you have to go in under the wheel arch.

The liner has to be removed. Special spanner required to take the tension off the drive belt.

I used a plastic tie to hold the spanner back to keep the belt slack. Once the new belt is correctly positioned around the various rollers the plastic tie can be carefully cut. Keep fingers away.---:eek:

Hi John.
Jack the car up drivers side, wheel off, wheel arch liner peeled back, and do the job from there, i use either gates or Continental Contitech belts.


https://i.imgur.com/nCtPbQXl.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/IRVJ5O8l.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/GkUnxVSl.jpg3

A ground down aviation spanner.
https://i.imgur.com/8qqiiH5l.jpg4

Wheel arch liner peeled back and the brake wear + ABS sensors passed through the liner before peeling back.
https://i.imgur.com/8l7pq5bl.jpg5


You now have full view of the belts and pulleys, use the spanner to take tension of the belt.
https://i.imgur.com/SWHrP7xl.jpg6

As you are changing them you could just cut them off.
https://i.imgur.com/RDEN0pyl.jpg7

Feed new belt in from the top and down making sure its over the power steering pulley and water pump pulley.
https://i.imgur.com/6XWynVpl.jpg8

weave it round the pulleys and guide wheels etc.
https://i.imgur.com/qs0e7y0l.jpg9

https://i.imgur.com/LuRxb6jl.jpg10

Once you have it wrapped round those use spanner again on tensioner, and slide the belt over the crankshaft pulley, it may still be tight if so use spanner on crank bolt to turn the pulley and it will pull the belts on for you, i had to leave the job for a while so when i came back to it did not carry on with the photos :o
https://i.imgur.com/j2xQ6qSl.jpg11

https://i.imgur.com/yQ81Dhhl.jpg12

This is what my Auxiliary belt looked like so i was just in time :eek: it is usually the A/C compressor belts that looks like this
https://i.imgur.com/e2JzdOul.jpg13

https://i.imgur.com/hk7Nu0Al.jpg14

Good luck with the fitting.

Follow Steve's How To step by step guided by the photos and you won't go wrong. ;)


I don't bother disturbing the wheel arch liner but then again I've done a few of these over the years. :}
















.

Very good of you thanks, i shouldnt need luck having being properly instructed :D:bowdown:



There is at least one main belt item squeaking a bit from cold when its damp, not ruling out water pump we'll see when belts off. What troubles me presently the most is if the tensioner idler wheel turns out to be bad bearing squealer theres no part i can find to swap out the tensioner idler wheel alone unless its hidden in plain sight! On that front there plenty written about moving engine to get enough room to pull that tensioner shaft out. This is the bit where i must moan about that design and where i wish good fortune to prevail. :o

The bolt you put the spanner on to remove tension can sometimes turn so you cant take the tension off the belt. You will need to put a spanner on the other side of the pulley to tighten it up so you can take the tension off

macafee2

May need to change that pulley and studying the drawings linked below and photos wondering if its the same as the idler pulley meaning a No5 from the drawing will fit on it if theres room to pull it off , never had them in hand to see but spec says its same diameter.


https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001734


EDIT


OK no maybe not looking at arctic's photos they not exactly same type... :-(

Hi John.
A few more photos for you albeit not with the engine in the bay, but you can remove the tensioner idler by lowering the engine, which would mean removing lower engine mount and upper mount.

The same would go for the freewheel pulley.

https://i.imgur.com/uK8XFyol.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/oyOI5bRl.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/kmpeFbFl.jpg3

https://i.imgur.com/VvlauBUl.jpg4

https://i.imgur.com/ARPyyCml.jpg5

Freewheel pulley.
https://i.imgur.com/pJcySL6l.jpg1

https://i.imgur.com/b18Sd0sl.jpg2

https://i.imgur.com/h3kc2ibl.jpg3


hope they help
https://i.imgur.com/M1mj6qyl.jpg4

If you are replacing just the bearing on the tensioner or idler you can do it without dropping the engine but if you are replacing the tensioner unit itself then you do need to. Luckily they aren't known to fail though.