The 1.8 turbo has a full 12 voltage to certan parts of the system for a full 5 minutes after ignition off. The system should be fully 'asleep' before testing for residual drain. There will always be some, but it's a few tens of milliamps. I'd expect the same for the 1.8 NA system.

Technical Tip TT0036 states:
Maximum expected current drain
Ignition off, up to 18 minutes: 1 to 2 amps
Ignition off, after 18 minutes (sleep mode): 30 to 45 mA

TC

Try this thread: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...w.google.co.uk
or
Frenchmike's method
https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/1c...0zlw0ojg6g.jpg


TC

What does the charger in the circuit do, please ??


Plus, which way is the current flow.--:shrug:

:wot:

In that circuit the multimeter is going to show the current supplied by the 'Power supply or charger' to the battery. It will not show current being drawn from the battery.

I think what FrenchMike is suggesting is that the 'Power supply or charger' will supply a charging current equal to that being drawn by the car. This charging current will be displayed on the multimeter. It's an interesting idea but of course the battery would have to be fully charged from the outset with the 'Power supply or charger' providing zero current. I'd say that is impossible to achieve because there will always be a trickle charge registered on the multimeter and it is likely to be higher than the normal quiescent current of the car's equipment. You will therefore never be sure with this method that you've found the source of an abnormal current draw.

Disconnecting the battery and inserting a multimeter in series switched to the 10 amp range then waiting for thirty minutes is the simple and reliable way of measuring the current being drawn from the battery.

Simon

As I said, it's Frenchmike's method. I'm only providing pointers. Maybe he will spot your question and elaborate.


TC

Another search indicates the '- - - without disconnecting the battery' is incorrect. The battery positive terminal is lifted off, leaving the 15v supply/charger to drive the drain. It runs independent of the battery - e.g. flat

https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/b3...adfdk6w46g.jpg

TC

Spot on TC. I've used this method and it worked well, although if I was doing it again I'd connect the ammeter in line with the negative battery post - bit safer if it touched anything when lifted off.


This was the set up:


https://i.imgur.com/7ew62lU.jpg?1

Hello all confined guys ;i hope you're well however :duh:

I just have to search in my failing memory .

The idea was how to measure the current drawn by the car without disrupting the computers feeding .
we are lucky with the Rover ,we can connect on the plus terminal another
source such a chargeur, power supply or another battery .
Simply ,insert a DC ammeter ,(begin with 10Amp range) then disconnect
the terminal from the battery .

that's all .

take care of yourselves

Mike

I’d be inclined to have the battery tested properly first so you know the cca measurement is good, you may be losing a few amps, standing voltage isn’t an accurate test of the battery’s health. Did the RAC give you a battery print out? Other than that I usually disconnect the battery earth and making sure the meter is set to 10 amps and the meter leads in the appropriate place attache in series between the battery and disconnected lead. Leave it long enough to go to sleep and have a cuppa and see what the reading is.

Don’t forget to tape the bonnet switch down and shut the sat nav unit down in the appropriate manner before disconnecting the battery, you might find the sat nav unit is staying powered up?