Further to last message, my filter is the early one with the two lifting loops.

So as this is not dismantleable, where do I go from here? Complete replacement filter assembly? - if so will the later dismantleable type be a straight exchange in the tank?

I very much doubt the blockage idea. 'Old' petrol doesn't cause blockages. Mine started first swing after standing over 2 years on SORN. It's possibly a pump issue. We're reading of petrol pumps finally giving up. Everything eventually does. Maybe worth looking for a second hand pump?


TC

Lucky you! Leave it alone for now because they don't give trouble. Mine is now over 20 years old and getting on for 100,000 miles with no starting problems whatsoever. So unless you've been putting treacle in your tank, there's not much reason to suspect it.

I agree with T-Cut about the 'blockage' and 'old petrol' ideas. My SD1 was also out of service for two years at one point and the petrol was fine. Let's remind ourselves of the fault:
OK so the petrol seems to be ok for one to five minutes and likewise for the 'blockage'. ;)

Here's a suggestion Mike. Remove the petrol filler cap, leave it off and see if it will run for longer than five minutes.

Simon

Some progress, but still not running.
There is now petrol at the Schraeder valve; the engine fires up and runs normally for about a minute, then dies - the petrol pump stops running after the engine stops, Depressing the schraeder valve petrol comes out which suggests there is a supply of fuel after all.
If I try to restart it it will try to run on one or two cylinders but not pick up. Further attempts it won't even try. It's as if there is not enough or no fuel getting injected. There are no bangs from the exhaust which would show that a mixture was not getting ignited.

If I leave it for half an hour it will start straight away but run for only a minute as before.

I'm at a loss as to what to look for or check out next. A pscan showed no relevent error codes.

What you describe here suggests the camshaft position sensor is failing. They work when cold but fail when warm. Freezing it for a few hours might prove informative. If it runs longer than a few minutes with the frozen sensor, then a new sensor is suggested.


TC

Thanks for this advice. New sensor ordered, will fit and report result in a few days time.

Unfortunately a new camshaft sensor has made no difference.
The engine fires up straight away, runs for a minute then slows, coughs as though it's running on only a couple of cylinders for several seconds, then dies.


Sometimes after 'coughing' it will recover and run normally before again coughing and dying.


There is still petrol under pressure in the fuel line after the engine stops suggesting no problem with the pump, filter and supply


I'm baffled, please advise

You might try measuring the fuel delivery pressure at the Schrader valve. It can be done using a mechanical tyre pressure gauge (NOT a digital/electronic one = fire hazard). Get an assistant to turn the ignition key to position 2 while you carfully hold the pressure gauge to the valve. While the pump runs, you must see at least 50psi pressure. If not, I'd suggest you think about a new pump.
You said it's got the earlier type fuel filter. Did you see it yourself?

TC

And to rule out any electronic / electric supply issues connect an external source of power directly to the fuel pump, two wires - black to minus and white purple to plus. Does the pump now run continuously?

Regards

Mike,

1. Lift the rear seat cushion and place your voltmeter across the fuel pump terminals (wiring colours as advised by Vitesse).
2. Turn on the ignition. Does the pump run for about two seconds then stop?
3. Operate the starter motor. Do you see +12v continuously at the fuel pump?
4. With the engine running, watch the voltmeter closely for any interruption to the supply. You should also clearly be able to hear the pump running.

This will fully test the fuel supply system at the tank. Fuel pump failure is virtually non-existent on the petrol engines so the object is to avoid wasting any more money replacing parts which are not faulty.

You might also try my previous suggestion regarding the fuel filler cap. This is to test that the tank venting system is working properly.

Simon