It is 50% likely the drivers switchpack is at fault, the other 50% being the passenger side switchpack.

It won't be the BCU, the errors you've listed have nothing to do with anything other than BMW being pessimistic about current draw from the window motors.

You can replicate this fault by unplugging the passenger side switchpack on any 75 and you will get the same results, I would trial by substitution the window switches and go from there ;)

Brian :D

Thanks Brian but I’ve already tried switching out both the drivers and passengers side switch packs, with working ones from my other saloon, to no avail.😪


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Tried again, switching the switch packs from problem car to the tourer.
They worked fine on the tourer.
Moved the tourer switch packs onto problem car, and....nothing (well, for everything except passenger front window.)
Still getting the clicking sound from the bcu / glovebox area.
Tried spraying all electrical connectors with electrical contact cleaner, before refitting the switch packs, but still no joy.
Is there actually a relay I should be checking, or is that toaf error a red herring?


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The relays are inside the BCU, and the TOAF errors are a red herring.

Time to crack out the multimeter to check the door looms, and take a look to see if the connectors in the A pillars don't have any green corrosion on the pins.

It is a windowbus fault, but where is the question :shrug:

Brian :D

Ahh, thanks Brian.
At least there is something mechanical to check 1st.😬
Now to find out where these connectors are...🙄


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In the most awkward place possible Sean, door off, or wing off, choice is yours ;)

My preference is to lift the doors off and unplug them to test

Brian :D

As I’m a lazy so and so....is the door wiring harness connector inside the door, or inside the car?
No point in taking a door card off if I don’t have to..:getmecoat:


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Outside the door in a grommet behind the back of the wing ;)

Well, I’ve been busy at work so haven’t had much time to do car related stuff, especially on the project gold car.

Haven’t taken the door off to check the connectors in the A pillars as recommended.🤭
But I did take the multimeter out today, to check for a residual battery drain.
Turns out I’ve a drain of 170mA, when the car has gone into sleep mode.

Pulling fuse 32 (remote door locking / interior lights) in the passenger footwell drops the drain to 40mA.
- interior lights still function, but not as a courtesy light when door is opened.
- drivers door module doesn’t operate any windows at all, but all windows, except drivers door, operate by their own module.

Pulling fuse 35 (front windows) drops the drain to 70mA.

Must do as suggested at some point, as it looks like battery drain and non functional window operation are linked.🙄



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