Your statement is correct.
What about the other millions of pressurised systems, that do not adhere to the "special MGR procedure"? ;)

Mike and Bob,

The point I was trying to make to Pete is that, having carried out the official MGR refilling and bleeding procedure, if the presence of air is still suspected then it is not the procedure which is at fault.

Pete has already identified two defects in his cooling system:

• The bleed screw does not tighten properly.
• There's a leak at the junction of a hose and pipe.

Both of these have the potential to create the symptoms he is experiencing and therefore need to be repaired immediately. There is no point in performing the alternative bleeding methods you both are discussing whilst these defects exist.

Simon

Well i checked the coolant level again and it was halfway up the tank i also slightly loosened the bleed screw with the engine running and a few bubbles came out then coolant i then loosened it when the thermostat opened and there was quite a few frothy bubbles that came out

Thanks for the news, I found I had to repeat this operation several times before everything stabilised, not at all surprised, nor will anyone who has a water-based radiator system be, but let's keep it a secret from Simon ...:}

Mike

It created an airlock unfortunately and the bleed screw head has snapped off so i need another bottom hose unfortunately. Its on verge of being weighed in its been nothing but agro and stress this car

Sorry to hear that - try Mickeyboy on here, he's usually helpful if you need s/h spares. But if it's only the actual screw rather than the complete hose, couldn't you extract the screw with a heated screwdriver and either source a replacement screw, or find one with the same thread and perhaps fit a small O ring or rubber washer?

Regards

Pete,

As Mike says, provided that you can devise a way to extract the broken screw and that the thread in the hose isn't damaged, you can buy a replacement screw separately from Rimmer Bros. or any X-Part dealer such as E Car Parts Ltd.

The part number is unusual in that it has one less digit than normal:
PYP 100 08

If you add an 'L' suffix, you can get it from Land Rover as well.

Best of luck!

Simon

Well an update i chiseled the remains of the screw away and it fell into the hose taking the thread in the hose with it so iv managed to order a used hose should be here sometime next week

A cold heater usually means you have an air lock in the system. It is the first sign of a loss of coolant too!
The cooling system is self bleeding, so if you drive it and top up, when cold, the problem will be solved.
One or maybe two top ups are required at times, after a refill.
I would leave the bleed screw well alone. It is likely to break and fall into the hose, being plastic!!.
On mine, I have removed it completely, and replaced it with a seal and a stainless screw/nut, making sure it will never sneak up upon me again!

The temperature on the engine varies quite a bit, depending on load, speed and ambient temperature. But it should never go much higher than 95 in free traffic. In town it will go to 102 to 105, depending on ambient temperature, but should fall fast after the fan switches on.
Once you know the likely scenario, you will feel much more relaxed with the changing temperatures.
The painted on temperature gauge is absolutely useless. So set the IPK to show real temperature, it is dead easy, once you get used to it.

The heater never went cold it was only the high temperature when i was driving 96-99 on ipk and the bottom rad hose was cold this was an hour after driving then when i drove it again after half an hour to cool down normal temperatures returned and the bottom hose was hot again. The fan was staying on dropping eventually to 96 but not to 95 to turn the fan off after the first run. When i checked the coolant level the next day it was halfway up the expansion tank whereas the day before i had to add a cupfull of water to bring it to the max indicator