Number Plate Light Repair

[Hogwarzt]

Hi All,

I recently rewired and repaired the number plate lighting board but noticed that the plastic housing had over heated and melted in some places. I put this down to the wrong bulbs fitted, but they were in fact 5W. There are 10W versions out there so beware.

My solution here was to get the 5W bulbs but the 24V version. This effectively reduces the power by half. Obviously the brightness is compromised but effective enough to illuminate number plate and get rid of annoying number plate bulb failure on dash.

regards
Rich

[T-Cut]

Or you could fit 38mm LED festoons. They're both bright and cool.
I didn't think the number plate lights were on the warning loop (?). Mine didn't complain anyway, but there are CANbus friendly versions.



TC

[vitesse]

My number plate light(s) gave a error on the IPK, usual procedure sometimes working, ignition off and next time error. Eventually got fed-up last weekend and hardwired/by-passed the PCB, no more intermittent errors

Regards

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I didn't think the number plate lights were on the warning loop (?).

The bulb failure warning is displayed only when both lamps are faulty.This explains why some people have seen a warning and others haven't.

Originally Posted by Hogwarzt

... the plastic housing had over heated and melted in some places.

Hi Rich,

According to RAVE there are no components in the housing so the overheating will most likely be due to deterioration of the conductors within. If you renew the housing you can keep the standard 12v 5 watt bulbs and full illumination.

Simon

[Jamiewelch]

With a halogen / incandescent bulb running a 24v bulb at 12v uses roughly 1/4 the power, not 1/2. A 5w bulb shouldn't melt the plastic, if there was poor contact causing extra resistance in the connectors that could cause it. But the bulb shouldn't.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Hogwarzt

My solution here was to get the 5W bulbs but the 24V version. This effectively reduces the power by half.

It reduces the current (amps) by half Rich, not the power (watts). Your overheating is the result of excessive current which can be caused only by lower circuit resistance, usually a short circuit. The solution is therefore not to change the rating of the bulbs but to find the fault!

Simon