Crankshaft Pulley Removal

Frogmella · 5th October 2016, 16:54

One of the jobs that will need doing asap on my much neglected (by previous owners) 75 is a replacement of the timing belt, aux belt and probably the water pump while I've got it stripped.

Been reading Haynes and it talks about getting an assistant to put the car in top gear and press the brake pedal while undoing the crankshaft pulley bolt. Mine is an automatic? What is the procedure?

Secondly, I am concerned about the tightness (205nM) of the pulley bolt, given that today I had to resort to an electric impact wrench just to get the oil sump plug out, is there room enough to get a breaker bar on it? Can I use my impact wrench if neccesary (its always a last resort)?

Every bolt I've had to undo so far has been welded in place by neglect. My back can't take much more of this.

As always, thanks in advance for any advice.

TomRS · 5th October 2016, 17:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frogmella

One of the jobs that will need doing asap on my much neglected (by previous owners) 75 is a replacement of the timing belt, aux belt and probably the water pump while I've got it stripped.

Been reading Haynes and it talks about getting an assistant to put the car in top gear and press the brake pedal while undoing the crankshaft pulley bolt. Mine is an automatic? What is the procedure?

Secondly, I am concerned about the tightness (205nM) of the pulley bolt, given that today I had to resort to an electric impact wrench just to get the oil sump plug out, is there room enough to get a breaker bar on it? Can I use my impact wrench if neccesary (its always a last resort)?

Every bolt I've had to undo so far has been welded in place by neglect. My back can't take much more of this.

As always, thanks in advance for any advice.

You will get a breaker bar in with the wheel off, although and impact gun will probably work better.
I've always been told that using in impact gun to remove them is ok if it really wont budge but they should never be put back on with an impact gun, this is certainly true for Honda's anyway.

Automatic is as simple as leaving the car in park.

beinet1 · 5th October 2016, 19:26

Remove the starter, put a 1/2" extension bar through the hole in the block casting and into a recess in the flywheel like this:

The flywheel on the auto may be different, but the approach would be the same.

spyder · 5th October 2016, 19:50

Well I am confused now?

Quote:

Originally Posted by beinet1

Remove the starter, put a 1/2" extension bar through the hole in the block casting and into a recess in the flywheel like this:

The flywheel on the auto may be different, but the approach would be the same.

COLVERT · 5th October 2016, 20:44

There is a mountain of info on how to remove the crank pulley in the search feature above.

DO NOT try to lock the crank as advised above. The impact by doing it this way can very easily damage the crankshaft and then you are really in the poo.

There is a tool that locks onto the pulley so that you can safely use an impact hammer.

ballymenaman · 5th October 2016, 21:37

I used a cordless electric impact wrench. Worked a treat with no movement at all of the crank pulley. Mine is an auto too.

trikey · 8th May 2024, 09:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceedy

Just my experience with my cdti auto
Bought a new cortetco about 4-5 years ago, just in case ,as had noticed a vibration at around 1800-2000 rpm.

Since then had a few goes at shifting the crank bolt.
Using a locking tool each time couldn't shift with a 2ft bar.
Then bought a 980nm DeWalt impact gun, used this a few times with no luck, and my last go last year I used a long pipe over my breaker bar, and just snapped the 1/2 drive clean off.
So still got the pulley and a vibration

I want to try my Dewalt gun on your pulley bolt, it hasn't failed yet to remove one!

Sent from my SM-G780G using Tapatalk

Vossy · 8th May 2024, 12:52

When I changed mine I tried all sorts of tools including a 3/4" drive air, also heating the bolt but all to no avail, in the end a truck owner friend lent me his 1" drive Milwaukee M18 impact driver which can use up to 2711 Nm of torque to undo difficult nuts or bolts.
The engine didn't even need to be locked to stop it moving, it was a couple of seconds of pure joy and the bolt was out, maybe overkill but not if it does the job

Mike Noc · 9th May 2024, 06:33

Done a couple of these - home made locking tool, 3/4 drive socket, good quality breaker bar and a 5ft bit of scaffold pipe work a treat!

5th October 2016, 16:54	#1
Frogmella Loves to post 2003 (03) Pre-Facelift 1.8 Club SE Auto Petrol Non Turbo Saloon Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Towcester, Northants Posts: 270 Thanks: 30 Thanked 31 Times in 26 Posts	Crankshaft Pulley Removal One of the jobs that will need doing asap on my much neglected (by previous owners) 75 is a replacement of the timing belt, aux belt and probably the water pump while I've got it stripped. Been reading Haynes and it talks about getting an assistant to put the car in top gear and press the brake pedal while undoing the crankshaft pulley bolt. Mine is an automatic? What is the procedure? Secondly, I am concerned about the tightness (205nM) of the pulley bolt, given that today I had to resort to an electric impact wrench just to get the oil sump plug out, is there room enough to get a breaker bar on it? Can I use my impact wrench if neccesary (its always a last resort)? Every bolt I've had to undo so far has been welded in place by neglect. My back can't take much more of this. As always, thanks in advance for any advice.

5th October 2016, 19:26	#3
beinet1 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011 Location: Sandnes - Norway Posts: 1,560 Thanks: 64 Thanked 283 Times in 174 Posts	Remove the starter, put a 1/2" extension bar through the hole in the block casting and into a recess in the flywheel like this: The flywheel on the auto may be different, but the approach would be the same.

5th October 2016, 20:44	#5
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	There is a mountain of info on how to remove the crank pulley in the search feature above. DO NOT try to lock the crank as advised above. The impact by doing it this way can very easily damage the crankshaft and then you are really in the poo. There is a tool that locks onto the pulley so that you can safely use an impact hammer.

5th October 2016, 21:37	#6
ballymenaman Avid contributor 75 Contemporary SE 2.5 V6 Auto, Rover 45, classic mini and E Niro Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Ballymena, Northern Ireland Posts: 239 Thanks: 25 Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts	I used a cordless electric impact wrench. Worked a treat with no movement at all of the crank pulley. Mine is an auto too.

8th May 2024, 12:52	#8
Vossy Why? ... MG ZT+ Cdti Auto saloon. Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Blockeswich, South Staffs Posts: 1,554 Thanks: 173 Thanked 483 Times in 330 Posts	When I changed mine I tried all sorts of tools including a 3/4" drive air, also heating the bolt but all to no avail, in the end a truck owner friend lent me his 1" drive Milwaukee M18 impact driver which can use up to 2711 Nm of torque to undo difficult nuts or bolts. The engine didn't even need to be locked to stop it moving, it was a couple of seconds of pure joy and the bolt was out, maybe overkill but not if it does the job

9th May 2024, 06:33	#9
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,569 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Done a couple of these - home made locking tool, 3/4 drive socket, good quality breaker bar and a 5ft bit of scaffold pipe work a treat!