power steering pressure sensor switch - Page 4

Steve916 · 21st August 2012, 12:28

Pm sent to OP

Bolin · 21st August 2012, 17:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by rover54

If it was deleted from later car, why don't you try disconnecting it and see what happens. If nothing happens it should be a simple case of blanking it off.

If it's function is indeed to speed the idle up when on full lock, all that should happen is the idle speed won't increase, but then how often are you on full lock. Later cars do without it, so I cannot see why earlier cars cannot do without it.

I'm not so sure!

The steering system was redesigned in early 2001 to reduce the system pressure, the sensor was soon deleted as it was not required with the new system.

So the sensor may well be necessary on the older models that were built with it.

This info can be found on the 'Project Drive - Illustrated' thread.

savi18 · 21st August 2012, 22:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bolin

I'm not so sure!

The steering system was redesigned in early 2001 to reduce the system pressure, the sensor was soon deleted as it was not required with the new system.

So the sensor may well be necessary on the older models that were built with it.

This info can be found on the 'Project Drive - Illustrated' thread.

Hi All, This is what i found about the PAS, The power assisted (PAS) sensor is located on the union of the high pressure pipe and the power steering pump , The pressure sensor is used to alter the engine idle speed based on load placed on the engine from the PAS system. This sensor is required because of the increased working pressure of the PAS pump( up to 100 bar on full lock ) and the lower idle speed of the engine (750 rpm ). It also helps to improve fuel economy and reduced emissions.
The sensor has three wires connected to ECM, a 5 volt feed, a path to vehicle ground and a return signal. The sensor will return a proportion of the supplied voltage in a range of 0.5 volts ( no load ) to 4.5 volts ( max load ).
If the sensor fails, it will not cause a MIL event but will store a fault code. The driver may notice poor engine idle control characteristics, especially when the steering wheel is turned and the vehicle is stationary, So there you are lads, Cheers Derek

stocktake · 22nd August 2012, 05:34

Derek, thanks for a very informative and factual post.

Nice to know it is indeed required and what it does

. I will keep an eye out for one for you during my breakers yard Visits

Steve916 · 22nd August 2012, 06:27

Derek, I just bought the only one on eBay for you. I have pm'ed you a couple of times.
Let me know if you want it

savi18 · 22nd August 2012, 08:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve916

Derek, I just bought the only one on eBay for you. I have pm'ed you a couple of times.
Let me know if you want it

Thanks Steve, have sent you a pm, Derek

rover54 · 22nd August 2012, 16:19

Car being broken has one fitted http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000-Rover...item2a21bdc071. Suggest contacting breaker if you want a second switch as a spare.

James_Death · 25th November 2012, 16:15

Certainly looks in the op's picture just like the one thats tarted leaking on the pug partner i had before the rover and purpose was indeed to raise the revs on full lock.

Think part was something like £85 the fact the sensor is held just by a very thin metal lip that will have been machine piened over could go again.

The fact it only raised the revs slightly at full lock i decided i wouldnt bother.

I first removed sensor and filled the space with metal filler that still let fluid through, oh the leaking had run down the suspension and contaminated the brakes.

Any way i removed the metal boss that the sensor was on that screws into the system and replaced after taking measurements for thread etc with an allan bolt.

Job Done no leaks no difference in steering etc.

timon · 3rd May 2023, 12:25

Today the price of the sensor is near 35 GBP which isn't that bad, but for us outside GB that means at least 60 GBP after shipping and duty/taxes since Brexit. Still quite costly for an ordinary sensor. So I bought an aftermarket one for 20 GBP... which came in in a rather poor state. It seems the OEM sensors don't go bad other than the soft glue-like seal which dissolves over time. Unfortunately the aftermarket's seal was the result of a very sloppy job and already bad on arrival. I addressed this issue by applying a coat of metal repair as shown in the last photo below. So for those outside the UK with an early car and a leaking sensor it may be an idea to just reseal the sensor instead of buying a new one.

The OEM sensor with the seal gone:

The poor quality replacement part:

OEM versus aftermarket sensor:

Aftermarket sensor with some metal repair:

xsport · 4th May 2023, 15:32

The sensors are on the whole very reliable. Their weakness is as shown the seal. my original had a nylon / rubber type white seal which leaked on mine ,giving the impression that the pump was leaking and throwing oil down and around the pump. i tried the J.B WELD version to remove the seal and refill. Whilst it did work for a while the leak did return , but only half as bad, due in part to the oil to surface exposure which i cleaned many times before applying the filler. I would suspect that any second hand used part would fail to the same leakage , as they all seem to do it. It gets very hot when in use and carries a lot of pressure. They seem to be needed on the automatics a lot more than the manuals as the upping of the revs is not really an option ...

21st August 2012, 12:28	#31
Steve916 This is my second home Rover 75 1.8 Connoisseur SE and a Ford S-Max Titanium Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Huntingdon Posts: 3,756 Thanks: 70 Thanked 31 Times in 27 Posts	Pm sent to OP __________________ Mods so far: Plenums, bonnet release mod, handbrake compensator (arctic), rear parking sensors, coolant level sensor (Vindaloo), DRL's, Fan resistor upgrade ( Jules), Marmite lighting, Auto dimming rear view mirror, twin horns, fog lights, real walnut dash, walnut gear knob, Sean DD unit with DVB-T, message centre ipk, electric sun blind, auto opening boot lid, walnut steering wheel, electric seats Link to my Auto Boot Lift Mod http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=114273

22nd August 2012, 05:34	#34
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,620 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	Derek, thanks for a very informative and factual post. Nice to know it is indeed required and what it does . I will keep an eye out for one for you during my breakers yard Visits __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

22nd August 2012, 06:27	#35
Steve916 This is my second home Rover 75 1.8 Connoisseur SE and a Ford S-Max Titanium Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Huntingdon Posts: 3,756 Thanks: 70 Thanked 31 Times in 27 Posts	Derek, I just bought the only one on eBay for you. I have pm'ed you a couple of times. Let me know if you want it __________________ Mods so far: Plenums, bonnet release mod, handbrake compensator (arctic), rear parking sensors, coolant level sensor (Vindaloo), DRL's, Fan resistor upgrade ( Jules), Marmite lighting, Auto dimming rear view mirror, twin horns, fog lights, real walnut dash, walnut gear knob, Sean DD unit with DVB-T, message centre ipk, electric sun blind, auto opening boot lid, walnut steering wheel, electric seats Link to my Auto Boot Lift Mod http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=114273

22nd August 2012, 16:19	#37
rover54 Retired rover 75 v6 Auto Conn. SE 54 plate LPG and 2006 Rover 75 v6 Auto LPG , 1.8 r75 Manual Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: London Posts: 3,379 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts	Car being broken has one fitted http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000-Rover...item2a21bdc071. Suggest contacting breaker if you want a second switch as a spare.

25th November 2012, 16:15	#38
James_Death Gets stuck in EX.2001 Rover 75 Conn SE 2.0, CDT,155 Brake, BRG Join Date: May 2010 Location: Doncaster Posts: 733 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Certainly looks in the op's picture just like the one thats tarted leaking on the pug partner i had before the rover and purpose was indeed to raise the revs on full lock. Think part was something like £85 the fact the sensor is held just by a very thin metal lip that will have been machine piened over could go again. The fact it only raised the revs slightly at full lock i decided i wouldnt bother. I first removed sensor and filled the space with metal filler that still let fluid through, oh the leaking had run down the suspension and contaminated the brakes. Any way i removed the metal boss that the sensor was on that screws into the system and replaced after taking measurements for thread etc with an allan bolt. Job Done no leaks no difference in steering etc.

3rd May 2023, 12:25	#39
timon Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Rotterdam Posts: 145 Thanks: 15 Thanked 25 Times in 22 Posts	Today the price of the sensor is near 35 GBP which isn't that bad, but for us outside GB that means at least 60 GBP after shipping and duty/taxes since Brexit. Still quite costly for an ordinary sensor. So I bought an aftermarket one for 20 GBP... which came in in a rather poor state. It seems the OEM sensors don't go bad other than the soft glue-like seal which dissolves over time. Unfortunately the aftermarket's seal was the result of a very sloppy job and already bad on arrival. I addressed this issue by applying a coat of metal repair as shown in the last photo below. So for those outside the UK with an early car and a leaking sensor it may be an idea to just reseal the sensor instead of buying a new one. The OEM sensor with the seal gone: The poor quality replacement part: OEM versus aftermarket sensor: Aftermarket sensor with some metal repair:

4th May 2023, 15:32	#40
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,765 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	The sensors are on the whole very reliable. Their weakness is as shown the seal. my original had a nylon / rubber type white seal which leaked on mine ,giving the impression that the pump was leaking and throwing oil down and around the pump. i tried the J.B WELD version to remove the seal and refill. Whilst it did work for a while the leak did return , but only half as bad, due in part to the oil to surface exposure which i cleaned many times before applying the filler. I would suspect that any second hand used part would fail to the same leakage , as they all seem to do it. It gets very hot when in use and carries a lot of pressure. They seem to be needed on the automatics a lot more than the manuals as the upping of the revs is not really an option ...