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17th October 2012, 09:05 | #21 |
Posted a thing or two
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21st October 2012, 00:06 | #22 |
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Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2009
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Hi Shed, that's indeed a good idea, to tell what's normal or abnormal.
Here is my record on '99 2.5 kv6, the obd coolant temp. under situations. 1. With a new stat (82C) fitted - Ambinent: 25-36C (summer :-)) - 50 highway / 50 city (few mild slopes) - Coolant: 89 - 99C (sometimes shot to 102-105C on climbing/traffic) 2. With a struck-open stat - slow warmup. rise to 96C. fall rapidly to 67C in highway 3. With a struck-close stat - rise to 102C. Shoot to 108 - 115C on climbing. Stay there and fall slowly even the fan is rotating crazy 4. With rad-steel (I swear, NEVER pour this kind of stuff in rad again, as it blocks everywhere, esp. narrow header hose, unexpectedly!!) (Some simply deposit a polymer along the wall & inside the engine - so reduce its thermal dissipation) - random behaviour between struck-open and struck-close 5. Now (suspect - 2-year old stat, partial but not fully opened) - steady at 102C. Rise to 106C when climbing. Fan rotates but seems does not lower the temp much. Hope these records help. |
21st October 2012, 02:39 | #23 |
I really should get out more.......
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I checked what TGB runs at this afternoon on a little run out. Seems with the temperature outside at 11 degrees she warmed up nice and quickly then say at 87 degrees until I left her running whiles I went into the veggies shop. came out as the was running at 91 degrees then.
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21st October 2012, 08:36 | #24 |
Gets stuck in
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Hi,
I had a problem where my fan would not bring the temp down from 100 or above, see thread below. Presumed the new stat was slightly out of spec and replaced with new. No problems since! I would also expect the temps to be a bit higher in your country especially going up hill as well. http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=75154 John |
21st October 2012, 09:19 | #25 | |
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Quote:
Since using this additive, have you completely drained and flushed your cooling system in an attempt to get as much of it out as possible? Simon.
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21st October 2012, 17:22 | #26 |
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Nobody has yet mentioned that there might be a problem with the water pump.
Impeller fins have been known to corrode away giving less water flow which sometimes shows itself as; rad top---hot / rad bottom---cool. |
22nd October 2012, 09:59 | #27 |
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Appreciated all inputs.
The rad-steel thing was a long-time-ago stories......and they were all flushed out in a engine rebuilt caused by another incidence - the tooth in an oem cambelt felling off under heat when running on the freeway !!) . Some additional mod in the weekend. Add a bypass hose (near the bleeder) to the bottom of header-tank. This is to resolve bleeding & allow certain coolant flows (even when the stat is closed.) But the situation still persists. This time, here comes a temptation. I may force the kv6 stat opened, and replace the whole bunch with the 1.8T cooling lines. I think the external stat will then no long be the pain in the V. Cross the finger. (If doing that, will break the pieces up again, and check the rad+pump). Can I kindly ask ? For those normal KV6 case, did the bottom rad feel hot ? (e.g. Mr_Shed, jn12, Plezier). I tends to agree w/ T-cut & Kaiser - the ecu may seems hunt for the best temp by fueling. kv6 operates efficiently in 95-105C.) |
22nd October 2012, 10:17 | #28 |
I really should get out more.......
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Hmmm I will have to check but the heating works on mine fine so I am "assuming" that flow is OK. The radiator and fan assembly is only three years old having been replaced by a garage for a previous owner.
The problem with checking the temp of the hoses is of course reaching them but I will try when we use the car later.
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22nd October 2012, 11:41 | #29 |
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I wont be able to confirm hose temp until the weekend, but will update when I can.
Tony |
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