Yet another problem

[dave lincs]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Turn the ignition key to position 3 so that the engine turns over Martin. Is/are the fuel pump(s) running now? Ask an assistant to operate the key whilst you listen or use a multimeter. If the pump(s) are running when cranking then the crankshaft position sensor is o.k.

Simon

Are you sure this is correct Simon?

[dave lincs]

From what has been said so far I would disconnect the fuel pipe from the fuel filter then turn on ignition position 2 and see if you have a good fuel supply if so check if oil warning light is working with ignition on position 2

[Martin Butler]

Originally Posted by Yorkshire GOC

If the under bonnet fuel pump has failed/is failing it usually becomes evident when the tank is down to 1/4 full as you are and causes non starts.

Well i have had the pipe off from the engine bay pump to the heater, and fuel is reaching that, and i pulled the pipe off the outlet from the heater to the fuel rail, and fuel was present, i sprayed some easy start into the inlet, and it started, but didn't pick up, any ideas what it might be, someone mentioned crank sensor whare about is it on the 75 with the BMW engine.

[Yorkshire GOC]

A simple test for the crank sensor is turn her over - if the Rev counter does not flicker at all this points to a goosed crank sensor.

[Matt_75]

It seems unlikely as yours has only been stood a week, but I had a diesel that wouldn't start because the inlet check-valve to the mechanical high pressure pump was stuck: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...=320259&page=2



Might be worth checking?

[sln8458]

Originally Posted by Martin Butler

Well i have had the pipe off from the engine bay pump to the heater, and fuel is reaching that, and i pulled the pipe off the outlet from the heater to the fuel rail, and fuel was present, i sprayed some easy start into the inlet, and it started, but didn't pick up, any ideas what it might be, someone mentioned crank sensor whare about is it on the 75 with the BMW engine.

If you are refering to the Fuel Burning Heater, that is fed from a separate pump underneath the floor below the rear seat infront of the rear offside wheel.

[Martin Butler]

Originally Posted by sln8458

If you are refering to the Fuel Burning Heater, that is fed from a separate pump underneath the floor below the rear seat infront of the rear offside wheel.

On my car, there's the electric pump by the battery box, and from that a hose connects to another unit, then from that the pipe connects to the delivery rail, i took off the quick release on the pump outlet, side, and there was fuel there, i also then removed the pipe that went to this other round cylinder like unit, to the rail and this also was getting fuel there is a pipe connecting both of these units, is that clearer, I'm really out of my depth, when it comes to diesel fuel systems,

[Martin Butler]

OK,I have been doing some thinking, I really do need to get this car running, if only to be able to get a better price for it, and because its got a tow bar, i might need to use it to pick up its eventual replacement, a MG TF that i'm bidding on, in need of at worse, a replacement rear subframe, Update, its now mine

crank sensor, and cam sensor are quite cheap, so is it worth a gamble on replacing these then if it still doesn't start, i can at least rule them out, and their both easy ish to do, The TF, if i win it can be stored for a few months, whilst i find a subframe, or decide on what on the suspention has failed the MOT,

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by dave lincs

Are you sure this is correct Simon?

Not on the diesel engine Dave. The LP fuel pumps come on with key to position II for 30 seconds to a minute, depending on which ECM is fitted. They will then stop if the engine isn't cranked. If you then move the key to position III they will run again to allow the engine to start.
However if you run out of fuel so the engine stops the fuel pumps continue to run and, if left long enough, will burn out.

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Martin Butler

OK,I have been doing some thinking, I really do need to get this car running, if only to be able to get a better price for it, and because its got a tow bar, i might need to use it to pick up its eventual replacement, a MG TF that i'm bidding on, in need of at worse, a replacement rear subframe, Update, its now mine

crank sensor, and cam sensor are quite cheap, so is it worth a gamble on replacing these then if it still doesn't start, i can at least rule them out, and their both easy ish to do, The TF, if i win it can be stored for a few months, whilst i find a subframe, or decide on what on the suspention has failed the MOT,

Martin you mentioned fuel in the pipe from the outlet side of the UBP. A good test is to remove the outlet pipe from where it connects to the fuel filter and place the end in a large jar then with key to position II you should see a good strong flow of fuel into the jar with no air bubbles. If you get that then reconnect the pipe and pull the electrical plug off the top of the fuel filter and see if the car then starts. That is the LP fuel pressure sensor.