Metal slave cylinder worth it? - Page 5

Heddy · 11th February 2018, 11:14

I've had the car 4 yrs now. The metal slave and Tazu Mk1 master have been in service 3 yrs. I had to top up yesterday because pedal had lowered somewhat, maybe clutch wear, but have had no issues at all apart from that. After topping up, the pedal is still smooth with the correct biting point. I'd say the metal slave and Mk1 Tazu is the way to go. I'd even say that this combination is reliable, most of the issues reported relating to the clutch are as said, poorly fitted parts or unsympathetic driving style.

JonMs · 11th February 2018, 14:21

I recently fitted a Delphi slave to my car. Externally is marked "AP" and is visually indistinguishable from the original AP part with the exception of copper pipes.

Something I noticed when fitting mine is how shockingly easy it is for the slave cylinder to be knocked out of place when re-fitting the bell housing. Until it's held in position by the clutch cover, it's held in place by very little and a tap on the pipes by the hoist chain/ropes is all that it takes to knock it out of position. I wonder how many slaves get damaged like this?

11th February 2018, 11:14	#41
Heddy This is my second home None Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: None Posts: 5,556 Thanks: 465 Thanked 1,161 Times in 924 Posts	I've had the car 4 yrs now. The metal slave and Tazu Mk1 master have been in service 3 yrs. I had to top up yesterday because pedal had lowered somewhat, maybe clutch wear, but have had no issues at all apart from that. After topping up, the pedal is still smooth with the correct biting point. I'd say the metal slave and Mk1 Tazu is the way to go. I'd even say that this combination is reliable, most of the issues reported relating to the clutch are as said, poorly fitted parts or unsympathetic driving style.

11th February 2018, 14:21	#42
JonMs Avid contributor Rover 75 CDTi Tourer Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ilkley Posts: 152 Thanks: 39 Thanked 26 Times in 21 Posts	I recently fitted a Delphi slave to my car. Externally is marked "AP" and is visually indistinguishable from the original AP part with the exception of copper pipes. Something I noticed when fitting mine is how shockingly easy it is for the slave cylinder to be knocked out of place when re-fitting the bell housing. Until it's held in position by the clutch cover, it's held in place by very little and a tap on the pipes by the hoist chain/ropes is all that it takes to knock it out of position. I wonder how many slaves get damaged like this?