Replacing outer CV joint boot

BrendanP · 13th August 2015, 14:20

Can anyone advise if it is feasible to replace this boot without having to pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox? Haynes manual shows tapping the outer joint off the shaft to push it off the circlip, can this be done in-situ? Also, what is the latest thinking on using the split Stickyboots? Folk seem to love them or loathe them.

chris75 · 13th August 2015, 17:21

Yes , it can be done in-situ . A smart sharp smack from behind is the trick

Also , you might like to consider these
http://www.slide-a-boot.co.uk/
You slide them on over a cone . You don't believe they will stretch , then all of a sudden it's done ! Fitted some about 3 years ago and they are still fine

badrover · 13th August 2015, 18:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris75

Yes , it can be done in-situ . A smart sharp smack from behind is the trick

Also , you might like to consider these
http://www.slide-a-boot.co.uk/
You slide them on over a cone . You don't believe they will stretch , then all of a sudden it's done ! Fitted some about 3 years ago and they are still fine

I agree the slide a boots are great. I did mine a year or so ago without issue. Some silicone grease in an aerosol is a must for this job to help the boot over the cone. Just make sure the boots are correct for the 75/zt. I discounted the glue together ones as it just doesn't seem a sensible thing to do. I may be wrong though!

Saga Lout · 13th August 2015, 18:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by badrover

I agree the slide a boots are great. I did mine a year or so ago without issue. Some silicone grease in an aerosol is a must for this job to help the boot over the cone. Just make sure the boots are correct for the 75/zt. I discounted the glue together ones as it just doesn't seem a sensible thing to do. I may be wrong though!

If you can borrow a cone then use the stretch boots, if not they are about £16 to buy. I have one and they are great, if you buy a cone and a boot you can do the job yourself for less than £25...that's if you can get the pinch bolt out from the hub and drop the arm.

Salad-Dodger · 13th August 2015, 18:55

Getting that pinch bolt out and dropping the arm is the harder part. Pulling the shaft out of the box is a doddle by comparison.
The long shaft is marginally more work because of the two bolts that hold the bearing carrier to the rear of the engine. These bolts do sometimes shear and there's not a lot of room up there to make it all good again. When I did mine the threads in the block came out with one of the bolts. Ended up with a heli-coil kit and a 90 degree drill.
I wasn't replacing the boot at the time so I don't know if it would be possible to just undo the hub, drop the arm and withdraw the shaft from the hub without pulling the shaft out of the gearbox.
I did it that way on a Ford Galaxy to replace the ABS ring with no problems.
There must be someone on here who has tried it.

Steve

David Lawrence · 13th August 2015, 19:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrendanP

Can anyone advise if it is feasible to replace this boot without having to pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox? Haynes manual shows tapping the outer joint off the shaft to push it off the circlip, can this be done in-situ? Also, what is the latest thinking on using the split Stickyboots? Folk seem to love them or loathe them.

It must be 18 years ago now that i used a sticky split boot on a rover 218SD with no ill effects. The key is to glue it up fully and allow it to dry before getting any grease near it, but the boot did survive a couple of years before i moved on to my rover 420SDi and was very easy to fit.

Back then i had no facilities for removal and retorqueing of the hub nut, so if you dont have that, you have a choice between a split boot or using a garage.

steve811 · 13th August 2015, 21:11

Have done this and wrote the how to:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=119333

BrendanP · 14th August 2015, 12:55

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I know all about the grief of getting the pinch bolts out, as I've recently had to change the front coil spring on the drivers' side. The boot to be changed is on the passenger side, and I saw from the MoT history that it had the spring on that side changed a couple of years ago. That means the bolts may not have rusted in yet! While I was was getting all the replacement pinch bolts I got 2 of each.

If it's easy to pop the shaft out, I may as well do it. Gearbox oil is probably due for a change anyway.

13th August 2015, 14:20	#1
BrendanP Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Nottingham Posts: 29 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	Replacing outer CV joint boot Can anyone advise if it is feasible to replace this boot without having to pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox? Haynes manual shows tapping the outer joint off the shaft to push it off the circlip, can this be done in-situ? Also, what is the latest thinking on using the split Stickyboots? Folk seem to love them or loathe them.

13th August 2015, 17:21	#2
chris75 same car since 2005 2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire Posts: 3,818 Thanks: 379 Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts	Yes , it can be done in-situ . A smart sharp smack from behind is the trick Also , you might like to consider these http://www.slide-a-boot.co.uk/ You slide them on over a cone . You don't believe they will stretch , then all of a sudden it's done ! Fitted some about 3 years ago and they are still fine __________________ Who said it was simples ? Last edited by chris75; 13th August 2015 at 17:24..

14th August 2015, 12:55	#8
BrendanP Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Nottingham Posts: 29 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	Replacing CV boot Thanks to everyone for the advice. I know all about the grief of getting the pinch bolts out, as I've recently had to change the front coil spring on the drivers' side. The boot to be changed is on the passenger side, and I saw from the MoT history that it had the spring on that side changed a couple of years ago. That means the bolts may not have rusted in yet! While I was was getting all the replacement pinch bolts I got 2 of each. If it's easy to pop the shaft out, I may as well do it. Gearbox oil is probably due for a change anyway.

13th August 2015, 18:55	#5
Salad-Dodger Gets stuck in MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Chatham Posts: 592 Thanks: 34 Thanked 66 Times in 62 Posts	Getting that pinch bolt out and dropping the arm is the harder part. Pulling the shaft out of the box is a doddle by comparison. The long shaft is marginally more work because of the two bolts that hold the bearing carrier to the rear of the engine. These bolts do sometimes shear and there's not a lot of room up there to make it all good again. When I did mine the threads in the block came out with one of the bolts. Ended up with a heli-coil kit and a 90 degree drill. I wasn't replacing the boot at the time so I don't know if it would be possible to just undo the hub, drop the arm and withdraw the shaft from the hub without pulling the shaft out of the gearbox. I did it that way on a Ford Galaxy to replace the ABS ring with no problems. There must be someone on here who has tried it. Steve

13th August 2015, 21:11	#7
steve811 Banned Rover 75 Tourer CDT Connoisseur SE Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Newport Posts: 1,906 Thanks: 107 Thanked 299 Times in 206 Posts	Have done this and wrote the how to: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=119333