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Old 14th August 2015, 07:58   #21
Mike Noc
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Looking at the photo there won't be much to protect the front of the engine from a minor accident, so on reflection I think option 3, a smaller tubular or box section brace bar in front of the intercooler, would be your best bet.

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Old 14th August 2015, 08:14   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saga Lout View Post
It's part of the structure, it's made to absorb initial impact, then the crumple zones take out a bit more etc...Without it you risk serious injury in a smash, the bulkhead can come in and pin you down, maybe even while your car is burning...and you get to be a dead star on youtube as people film it, then the insurance won't pay out and your family lose out.
I've heard this happened to older cars alot, where there is a head on impact and the engine is pushed backwards and presses through the firewall and crushes your legs!

I personally wouldn't tamper with the square bar at the front of the car as it has to be there for a reason!
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Old 14th August 2015, 08:38   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxxpump View Post
I've heard this happened to older cars alot, where there is a head on impact and the engine is pushed backwards and presses through the firewall and crushes your legs!

I personally wouldn't tamper with the square bar at the front of the car as it has to be there for a reason!
The double bulkhead on our cars is incredibly strong - I don't think this is likely to be an issue.
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Old 14th August 2015, 08:43   #24
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Very interesting thread.
The crash bar is indeed very restrictive when it comes to installing the larger FMIC's.

I like the idea of replacing it with something smaller but just as effective. I'll be following this part of the build with interest.
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Old 14th August 2015, 08:50   #25
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The body torsional strength (ie doors still open) refered to by Jules is almost entirely due to the centre "box" of our 3 box car shell, namely the cabin strength, double bulkhead and all. You could still rip one of the two legs off and not seriously affect that box.
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Old 14th August 2015, 12:00   #26
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I've found a compromise which involves retaining part of the box section but beefing up and allowing me to fit in a 600x300x76 intercooler which is suited for upto 800bhp.

Drawing already off to the place that makes the rad/intercoolers for me.

It's the best compromise I can do.

Thanks for the inout. I made a balanced decision that is somewhere in between the two extremes of doing nothing and losing mass performance, or removing completely and risking major damage at minor impact.

Thanks
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Old 14th August 2015, 12:16   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeraintUK View Post
I've found a compromise which involves retaining part of the box section but beefing up and allowing me to fit in a 600x300x76 intercooler which is suited for upto 800bhp.

Drawing already off to the place that makes the rad/intercoolers for me.

It's the best compromise I can do.

Thanks for the inout. I made a balanced decision that is somewhere in between the two extremes of doing nothing and losing mass performance, or removing completely and risking major damage at minor impact.

Thanks
G
Keep us posted on how it goes, I've been dying to find another way to spend money on my build :p
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Old 14th August 2015, 12:25   #28
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I'm sure you haven't forgot but the bar also helps hold the bumper in place.
It might droop if its not supported.
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Old 14th August 2015, 12:42   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wullie480 View Post
I'm sure you haven't forgot but the bar also helps hold the bumper in place.
It might droop if its not supported.
that's a little why i wanted to at least retain the parts where the bar bolts to the chassis legs.
Solution I have now will do just that as well as keep the top part of it so i'm happy with the plan
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Old 14th August 2015, 12:43   #30
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Originally Posted by Pistonbroke666 View Post
Keep us posted on how it goes, I've been dying to find another way to spend money on my build :p
Oh I can think of plenty of ways.

Have you uprated the fuel system yet
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