Wiring Through Steering Column
 

So I am halfway through a plan to install a heated steering wheel.

I've got the wiring from the battery sorted and I've already got the wheel retrimmed with heated elements in and tested it's all working.

My issue is now that I need to wire through the clock spring or find a way to bypass whilst still allowing for the rotation of the steering wheel.

I've thought of a few different ways but none of it makes sense without adapting the clock spring.

I have seen there are two spare pins in the connector to the clock spring and wondered if they were connected to anything the other side?

The other thing I've seen mentioned is that splicing in to the horns/controls and activating anything will set the horn off until the ignition is switched off again?

Any help would be much appreciated please see attached images for context!

The spare pins are for cruise control. I'm not an expert but unless the power required for your heated wheel is above what the clocksprings can handle it should be ok to use the cruise pins. There are a few members who will be able to confirm this either way. Nice modification though, hope it's as easy as it appears :D

Lee.

Thanks Lee! I've had a look on the dodgy eBay listing for the heated elements and it only states it's a 12v powering the two 18w heated pads.

If the cruise wiring is the other side I could splice into that as the car never came with it as a function and it's not a daily so wouldn't need the function anyway.

The wiring for the cruise switches is 0.5mm. I'd definitely be on the side of caution on that one. If the wire is only 0.5mm then the rotary coupler probably won't handle the current.

If you have no cruise the plugs may be empty both sides as mine are. Adding to them would be easy, but if as stated, above the coupler can't handle it, then you will need a new plan. I have an old coupler here you can have for research and testing if it helps.

Lee.

Hello Laurence,

Your two 18 watt heating elements will draw about 3 amps.
The rotary coupler (clock spring) currently handles the radio and cruise control controls plus the horn buttons in a relay coil circuit.
All these are very low current consumers, nothing approaching 3 amps. I therefore doubt that the rotary coupler has been manufactured to carry such a load.
You should therefore accept Lee's kind offer of testing the circuit using his spare coupler.

Simon

Thanks guys, a couple of the techs at work were a bit dubious of the power the coupler could take. I do have a spare one so thank you for the offer Lee!

The other option would be to get some higher gauge wire going through the coupler to the unused cruise control pins or to try and have a hole straight through the bottom of the wheel and some sheathed slack wiring to allow for the rotation.

Those are my last options I think

You have the wheel now, so no going back :D.
Defeat is not an option, when you find a way and you will,
please post your solution on here. Heated steering wheel is on my to do list now.

Lee.

Well as mentioned the rotary coupler is designed to handle signal currents. I had one apart a couple of years ago and the ribbon was very thin, so it's good news - the coupler will probably contribute more to the steering wheel heating than your elements, before it gives up the ghost. :getmecoat:

Gloves out of fashion?